brian_winshell

<p>Try dynamic autofocus mode. The camrea will find an autofocus point for you, hopefully somewhere within the DOF you need. I use it for self portraits and its reletively fast as long as there is SOMETHING the AF system can lock onto.</p>

<p>Sorry if I missed this somewhere but I didn't hear mention about continuous autofocus mode. Are you using continuous autofocus?</p>

<p>From Nikon News:<br>

1) <a href="http://www.nikon.com/about/news/2011/0314_01.htm">http://www.nikon.com/about/news/2011/0314_01.htm</a></p>

<p>2) <a href="http://www.nikon.com/about/news/2011/0314_02.htm">http://www.nikon.com/about/news/2011/0314_02.htm</a></p>

<p>{Insert Buzz Lightyear quote here}<br>

I noticed the same thing with my Sigma 10-20mm. It still produced sharp pictures with the autofocus so I got used to it.</p>

 

<p>Do you know if she uses an enlargement software like Genuine Fractals or Alien Skin Blow-Up? I get crisp 24x36 prints using a D200 and Genuine Fractals 6.</p>

<p>I have a D200. Mostly, it happens to me sometimes when placing or removing the camera to/from the camera bag. I have a 5 million dollar home and the fit is snug. The switch can rub against the divider.</p>

<p>" the only reason you accidentally touch that button during shooting is that you are holding the camera incorrectly. "</p>

<p>Maybe, but it also just happens, and not while shooting. Maybe it has never happened to some of you but Wade is not alone here. Sometimes the camera is just in hand, casually, while walking around looking for a shot or whatever and the switch gets flipped unknowingly.</p>

<p>For me I think it's because I have big hands with long fingers and they can end up in that nook on the camera while holding it casually.</p>

<p>Wade, I feel your pain.</p>

<p>Taken in Acadia National Park during new moon 9/11/2010<img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Startrails2.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1071" /><br>

D200, Tamron 17-50mm @17mm, f/2.8, ISO200, 30sec exposures stacked in startrail.de software.</p>

<p>I am starting to like it better with the trees silhouetted. Thoughts?<br>

<img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Startrails2.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1071" /></p>

<p>thx :) New Moon actually</p>

<p>Hi again! I am back from Acadia National Park and I thoughI would share the results of my first attempt at star trails. I personally don't like when people ask for advice and then don't follow up after that advice has been applied. Taken with Nikon D200 and Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 VC. 17mm, f/2.8, ISO200, 30sec exposures stacked with star trails.de software, tungsten white balance, foreground painted with mag lite, Exposure slightly boosted in Adobe Lightroom. Anyway, thanks for all the replies!<img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Startrails-1024x685.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Have you seen ISO 800 on a D200? That would be way too noisy I'm sure, especially with noise reduction turned off. Is there anyone out there with extensive experience shooting star trails that might argue using such a high ISO. Every time I google star trails, I find numerous sites saying ISO100-200 and f/2.8-4.0 is sufficient to capture the trails using 30sec exposures. If I have to go up to ISO 800 I might as well forget making any decent size prints. Can the dark frame really take care of the noise on a D200 at ISO 800? </p>

<p>Great, so I will keep noise reduction off. </p>

<p>Christa what were the sky conditions and focal length you were working with. I have seen numerous threads stating that a wide focal length, f/2.8-f/4 , ISO 100 works just fine. Also there is little light pollution in Acadia. So the stars should be plenty bright.</p>

<p>I am going to Acadia National Park in two weeks and I plan on making my first attempts at shooting star trails. I have a D200, adequate lenses, and just purchased <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VIH91G/ref=oss_product">an intervalometer</a>. I have read <a href="http://www.moosepeterson.com/digitaldarkroom/lessons/lights_of_the_Heavens.pdf">this article by Moose Peterson</a> in preparation and I alomst understand everything I need to know and have a good idea of how toapproach this. I will shoot a dark frame with my lens cap on and set the intervalometer to take 30sec exposures with 1sec gaps in between. I will also be using the <a href="http://www.startrails.de/html/software.html">startrails.de application</a> to combine the exposures. I know some might suggest that I practice first but I don't have time to practice this before I go, so, this trip will be my first experiment. A successful first attempt would be nice but it's not vital to my happiness :) So here are my two questions:</p>

<p>1) I read that the dark frame will subtract the noise from the final image. However, should I still have long exposure noise reduction turned on while making my exposures?</p>

<p>2) The Moose Peterson article suggests 4 minute exposures with 1sec pauses, however, I have read in many places that 30sec exposures with 1 sec pauses will produce great results. How badly do the 1sec pauses effect the final image? Should any of my attempts be successful I will most likely make a large (20x30) print and I wouldn't want the trails to look like morse code.</p>

<p>Thanks for your time and attention!</p>

<p>How about video conference? Skype is free i think. Webcams and mics are cheap and you could even buy a cheap setup for the bride if she doesn't have one. It'll cost you much less than $400.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"Color balance is not a concern as all images are balanced against a known standard in post processing."</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>A known standard? Can someone please elaborate on what Raymond means by this?</p>

<blockquote>

<p> </p>

</blockquote>

<p>The Met, NY<br>

<img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/pnetphotos/sculpturemet.jpg" alt="" /><br>

D200, Sigma 10-20mm @10mm</p>

<p>You absolutely must go to the top of Cadillac Mountain for sunrise. Arrive early with a tripod, no excuses! We stayed and Blackwoods campground. It is in the heart of Acadia and the campsites are within walking distance to cliffs overlooking the ocean. Acadia is great, enjoy your trip!</p>

<p>Sun Flare at Chieow Laan Lake in Khao Sok National Park, Thailand.<br>

<img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/pnetphotos/flarechieow.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br>

D200, Tamron 17-50mm VC</p>

 

<p>Fenway Park Sunset <a href="http://www.brianwinshell.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Untitled_Panorama1-Edit-3.jpg">(link to bigger image)</a><br>

<img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/pnetphotos/Fenwaysmall.jpg" alt="" /><br>

D200, Tamron 17-50mm VC. Handheld HDR Pano</p>

 

<p>Big Buddha on Koh Samui, Thailand<br>

<img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/pnetphotos/bigbuddha1.jpg" alt="" /><br>

D200, Sigma 10-20mm</p>

<p>Sunrise on Chieow Laan Lake, Khao Sok National Park, Thailand. <br>

<img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/pnetphotos/chieow_laan2.jpg" alt="" /><br>

D200, Tamron 17-50mm VC, HDR</p>

<p>Ray G, thanks, it's a pseudo HDR. Something I rarely do but I was fortunate enough to get a single capture with no blown highlights or shadows so I went for it. Also, I was in a moving boat so bracketing for true HDR was not an option. </p>

<p>Great photos everybody!</p>

<p>

<p>Chieow Laan Lake, Khao Sok National Park, Thailand</p>

<a href="http://www.brianwinshell.com/pnetphotos/chieow_laan.jpg"><img src="http://www.brianwinshell.com/pnetphotos/chieow_laan.jpg" alt="" /></a>

D200, Tamron 17-50mm VC @17mm, f/3.2, 1/180sec, ISO 100

</p>