eosdoc
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Link to another PDF: <a target=loser href=
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There is a Light method and a Dark method for FEL. See:<BR>
<a href=
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<a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=ETTLRx
>http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=ETTLRx</a><BR>
Check the links in the <a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals/flash/ETTLRx/#guestbook
>Comments</a> section.
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The "extra" contacts are described in the EOS FAQ:<BR>
<a onmouseout=if(Math.random()<0.25)this.click() target=loser href=
http://www.geo.tu-freiberg.de/docs/eos-faq/4lenses.html#q16
>http://www.geo.tu-freiberg.de/docs/eos-faq/4lenses.html#q16</a>
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<a target=loser href=
http://www.google.com/search?q=filetype:pdf+380ex
>Go:</a><P>
<a target=loser href=
http://66.49.230.119/flashes_meters/canon_speedlite_380ex.pdf
>http://66.49.230.119/flashes_meters/canon_speedlite_380ex.pdf</a>
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Unlike the cable tie, the hack for Zoom Creep at eosdoc is
cosmetically undetectable, and yet fully reversible.
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By "Hacking into the Grip", I meant that you could add a 3 contact
"stereo subminiature phono socket/jack". See:<BR><A href="http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/gr10.html"
target=_blank><IMG width=120 height=160 src="http://www.kjsl.com/~dave/gr10-1.jpg"
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<code><i>
Above, Julian mentioned fixing the contacts with silver or nickel conductive paint? Will this work? It seems like it would be a pretty easy/cheap solution.
</i></code>
<P>
Cheap as in "paucity of effort". But not necessarily cheap as
in "inexpensive". Think $30 or so, and possibly shipping for
hazardous goods for some products:<BR>
<a target=loser href=
http://www.google.com/products?q=conductive+silver+paint
>http://www.google.com/products?q=conductive+silver+paint</a><BR>
<a target=loser href=
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/en/product/N5184
>http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/en/product/N5184</a>
<P>
Painting a replacement pad is just that. You can use a grip
accessories, but there will be no physical strength.
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The center contact is indeed <a title="FUBAR" target=loser href=
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FUBAR
>ruined</a>. You could try to repair it
with silver or nickel conductive paint that is used for circuit
board repair. Or you could completely dismantle the 630 to
hardwire the connections inside the shell. Next time, hack into
the shutter-release grip instead of the body.<BR>
<A target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=GR30mod
>http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=GR30mod</a><BR>
<a target=loser href=
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An old hack for Zoom Creep (might void your warranty):<BR>
<A target=loser href=
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Canon used the term "meniscus" lens in 2003 to describe this technique, but the adspeak
wording in Canon's press releases has gradually changed since 2004 from "lens element
shape" "optimized for digital sensors", to the more recent "optimal lens shaping".
<P>
This is not limited to the supertelephoto or telephoto lenses. For example, refer to
the EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 USM Technical report:<BR>
<a target=loser href=
http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/tech/report/200401/report.html
>http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/tech/report/200401/report.html</a><BR>
<Code>
The EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 USM features lens shape and coatings optimized for its use
with a digital SLR camera. As a result, the lens successfully realizes both appropriate color
balance and minimization of the ghost and flare attributable to surface reflections from
the imaging element.
</code>
<P>
For more reading, try this google search:<BR>
<a target=loser href=
http://google.com/search?q=site:canon.com+%22surface+reflections%22&filter=0
q=site:canon.com+%22surface+reflections%22&filter=0</a><BR>
Is it just the coatings? Or lens shape "optimized" for digital sensors?
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I thought that any flat glass filter would contribute to sensor
reflection. See explanation in Figure 4 from Canon Camera Museum <A
href="http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/tech/report/200308/200308.html"
target=_blank>Technical Report 2003.8</A>
<P>
<CENTER><A
href="http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/tech/report/200308/200308.html"
target=_blank><IMG
<P>Do the "digital filters" undo the beneficial effects of a meniscus lens?
<P>See also: <A href="http://thesybersite.com/minolta/sensor-reflection/"
target=_blank>http://thesybersite.com/minolta/sensor-reflection/</A></P>
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No you cannot. You would need a belt sander to fit the top
plate of a BP-50 to an EOS Elan / EOS 100. A BP-50 can be
hardwire to fit an EOS 1000FN. See:<BR>
<A target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=1000FN++
>http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=1000FN++</a>
<P>
For an EOS 100, try using a BP-300 instead. See:<BR>
<A target=loser href=
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My 420EX does NOT respond to fixed-power (i.e. manual) signals
sent by wireless E-TTL.<P>
If you have a <code>580EX II</code>, perhaps you could help update
the chart at <a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com title="EOS
Documentation
Project"
>eosdoc</a>:<br>
<A target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=ETTLDx
>http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=ETTLD</a>
<P>
Have you tried tricking the 420EX into firing maximum power
over wireless E-TTL using <a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=blindFEL
>blind FEL</a>?
<P>
Alternatively, could you force the 420EX into full-power
manual mode, and sync the 580EX II using an optical slave
trigger?
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Perhaps it might help to check if the Speedlite is operating within the "coupling range". The simple method was described at <a target=loser
href=
title="EOS
Documentation
Project">EOSdoc</a> in 2003:<BR>
<a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=FELmeter
>http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=FELmeter</a>
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<a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=100-400LIS
>http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=100-400LIS</a><BR>
<a target=loser href=
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Switch Communication Mode on the EOS 20D to [Normal] (and not
[PTP]).<BR>
Try using iPhoto to connect to the EOS 20D.<BR>
Change the USB cable, in case the cable is faulty.<BR>
Delete the [Canon CameraCom Pref] file and restart.<BR>
Consult the "Troubleshooting" section on page M-64 and M-65
of the instruction manual.
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Some people actually do think of lenses that way, especially
for stitching pictures. Use a good calculator for the
answers:<BR>
<a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=jlcalc
>http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=jlcalc</a>
<P>
To achieve the same field of view as my EF 24mm f/2.8
mounted on my EOS Elan 7E with 35mm film, I would need
to set my EF-S 10-22mm rectilinear zoom to 15mm on my
EOS 20D.
<P>
For 95degree diagonal field of view, use:
<table>
<tr><th>Format</td><td rowspan=3></td><th>Focal<BR>length</td></tr>
<tr><td>35mm</td><td>19.75mm</td></tr>
<tr><td>EOS 20D</td><td>12.35mm</td></tr>
</table>
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<a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=ETTLRx
>http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=ETTLRx</a><BR>
<a target=loser href=
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Replace the lens with a front body cap and try the EOS 30 again.
Suspect Sigma lens incompatibility. See:<BR>
<a target=loser href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=BCerror
title="EOS
Documentation
Project"
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If the lens is NOT 70-200EF, maybe it is one of Canon's <a
target=loser title=
"Canon
Camera
Museum" href=
http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/data/telephoto_zoom/ef_55~200_45~56_usm.html
>55-200 mm</a> or <a target=loser title=
"Canon
Camera
Museum" href=
http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/data/telephoto_zoom/ef_80~200_45~56_usm.html
>80-200 mm</a> zoom lenses?
<P>
If the lens has a "twist-to-zoom" ring, there is a way to improve
the friction. For good ideas, see:<BR>
<a target=loser title="EOS
Documentation
Project" href=
http://eosdoc.com/manuals?q=ZoomCreep
>EOSDoc: Zoom Creep</a>
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Referring to<BR>
<a target=loser href=
http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/telephoto_zoom.html
>http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/telephoto_zoom.html</a>
<BR>
which 70-200EF lens do you have?
Looking for Canon BG-E2 instruction manual
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<a target=loser href=
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=159185
>http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=159185</a>