976photo
-
Posts
509 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by 976photo
-
-
<div>
</div>
-
<p>I was hoping someone here might be able to help, or at least be able to pinpoint the problem for me. Keep in mind I've owned my D7000 for a couple of years now and have not had this issue before.<br>
<br />At random during a shoot my camera just locks up. It happens when I press the shutter release, and the mirror locks up on it's own and the whole camera freezes. The display on top reads "Er" and it will eventually unlock itself if I press the shutter release again, usually. It still records an image to the card but it's all black.<br>
It sometimes does this on literally every other shot, sometimes completely at random with a few good shots inbetween. Buffer speed doesn't seem to be the cause as it doesn't matter how slowly or how long I wait in between shots. Once again I've never had this problem before now.<br>
<br />I'm using the original Nikon battery that came with the camera (fully charged) and the same memory cards that I've always been using in this camera (Lexar Plat II SDHC Class 6) which I always reformat before using.</p>
<p>Any ideas?<br>
Thanks.</p>
-
<p>Elliot - sorry, didn't realize you were pointing out a specific post in that thread. Still, the price has not dropped. It's still $1500 for the D7000 with the 18mm-108mm lens and $1200 for just the body.</p>
-
<p>Elliot - we're talking about the price of the <strong>D7000</strong>, not the D700. And no, it hasn't dropped. I just bought mine 3 days ago. Price was $1500 with the "kit" lens.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.adorama.com/INKD7000K1.html">http://www.adorama.com/INKD7000K1.html</a></p>
-
<p>I agree with Zach I wouldn't expect the price to drop anytime soon. The D7000 is still a hot camera and if availability is limited in any way with the current situation in Japan the price may actually go up. (I know the D7000 isn't actually built in Japan, but production may still be affected if parts are not readily available)</p>
<p>If you simply can't afford the D7000, then I'd suggest the D90. You can still find them new at most camera shops.</p>
-
<p>Forgot to add: I'd pass on the D3100. If I'm not mistaken there's no internal AF motor for the lenses. So you'll be investing in the AF-S lenses which are more expensive. All of your other camera options have the built in AF motor, so your lens options will be greater. (and cheaper)</p>
-
<p>There's nothing wrong with the D90, it's a great camera and will take great pictures for you. You will see a noticable upgrade.</p>
<p>However, the D7000 is the replacement for the D90 and is a far better camera. It's the latest offering from Nikon and has the latest image sensor technology. It also boasts superior low-light performance (especially combined with your 50mm 1.8 lens) It's a camera that will last you a long time without feeling the need to upgrade again.</p>
<p>The D300s is a great camera, but it's on it's way out. Many people were expecting a replacement for it sometime this year. (may be delayed now because of the earthquake, no one knows) It's still better than the D7000 in some areas (FPS for example), but not by a lot. But the D7000 will outperform the D300s in some other areas (low-light for example) For me, the difference isn't enough to justify spending more money on the D300s. I got the D7000 because what it does better was more important to me than what the D300s did better. You'll have to decide on that for yourself.</p>
<p>So, I'd suggest the D7000. But choose what's best for you.</p>
-
<p>Using that method is how I got this shot:</p>
<div>
</div> -
<p>John - What I'm saying though is by using the pre-set "action" mode she has no control over the settings. So there's no point in asking what settings to use if she's going to be using the full-auto action mode.</p>
<p>It's why I suggested Shutter Priority. It'll allow her to set her shutter speed and lock it down so she can freeze the action. The camera will handle the aperture settings for her, and all she'll have to worry about is the ISO, which should only take a few clicks to get set, then she's good to go.</p>
-
<p>No offense but if you're going to use the auto mode (running man) then there's no point in asking for help here. It's an "auto mode" so the camera is going to do everything for you. No guarentee that the camera will know what you want though, so your results may vary.</p>
-
<p>To add to what's been said:</p>
<p>You'll probably want to use the 70-300mm lens since I doubt you'll be allowed to take pictures from right next to the pool. Set your white balance (WB) to cloudy. Set your camera to shutter priority ("S" mode) and set your shutter speed to around 1/250. Your camera will handle the aperture settings for you. You will have to adjust your ISO accordingly. If the pictures are too dark you'll need to raise your ISO. If they are too bright you'll need to lower it. Try to stay in the 200 - 800 range if possible, but if you need to go higher to get a decent shot then you gotta do what you gotta do.</p>
-
<p>I have to agree with Carl also. Don't get in a rush to go out and buy a bunch of lenses until you learn more about your camera and how it works. You'll know you're ready for a new lens when you don't have to ask "what lens should I get?"</p>
<p>That said, I also know the 18mm-55mm doesn't give you a lot of zoom. I would suggest the 55mm-200mm lens for now, and sit on those two until you learn more and get better with your camera. It's not too expensive, it's a good lens, and it will give you plenty of zoom for most of your everyday picture taking.</p>
<p>Those were the only two lenses I used for almost a year and a half when I bought my D5000. Only now am I finally adding other lenses to my collection. Best of luck!</p>
-
<blockquote>
<p>Take a close look at the under-nose shadow on the model where she is facing directly at the lens, That little profile shape of the shadow is like a butterfly on edge or straight on, thus the name, butterfly lighting. As Matt says, straight in over the camera and high to the subject, but low enough to avoid losing the eyes in shadow</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Also look up "Paramount Lighting" (same thing as butterfly, just sometimes called by a different name)</p>
-
<p>I got a letter like that also. I didn't respond to it... glad I didn't.</p>
-
<p>The older model digital cameras, like the D200, do struggle in low light / high ISO performance. A lot of that has been improved over just the last couple of years with better image sensors. Almost any of the newer Nikon models will give you better performance in that situation: D5000, D90, D300s, D7000</p>
<p>IF you were looking to upgrade but didn't want to break the bank, the D90 might be a good choice. It's been discontinued (replaced by the D7000) but you can still find them new at most camera stores. The D5000 shares the same image sensor as the D90 but has no built-in auto focus motor.</p>
<p>Otherwise, if you're sticking with the D200 a couple of tips for you: Like someone mentioned use a reflector to fill in the shadows a little bit and that should help. Or, also try converting them to B&W. A lot of times, especially for the examples you posted, converting a slightly grainy image to B&W will help give it a classic film look which can be very appealing.</p>
-
<blockquote>
<p>Check out the approved list of memory cards on Nikon's website. Here is the approved list for the D7000.<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/17061" target="_blank">http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/17061</a><br />DON'T GO CHEAP ON MEMORY. ALL MEMORY IS NOT THE SAME.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><em>"Operation is not guaranteed with other makes of card. Contact the manufacturer for details on the cards not listed above"</em><br>
<em> </em><br>
Read your manual, then get a SanDisc card, problem solved.</p>
-
<p>I'm not an expert, but I would say at the <strong>minimum</strong>...</p>
<p>Second camera (if something happens to your one and only camera during the wedding, you're screwed.)<br>
extra (fully charged) batteries/memory cards<br>
hot-shoe mounted flash that can pivot (or two, one for each camera)<br>
good fast lens (low f/stop number) for tricky low-light situations (again, maybe two)<br>
experience (assist another photographer as a second shooter a few times)<br>
good contract previewed by a lawyer for your clients to sign</p>
-
<p>New York Institute of Photography (NYIP)</p>
<p>Study at home... if they can mail it to you then you can study it wherever you are.</p>
-
<p>D7000 with 18-105mm kit lens + the 50mm f/1.8</p>
<p>That gives you a decent all-around zoom lens and a nice prime for really good low-light photography, all for under $2k</p>
-
-
First DSLR
in Nikon
<p>The D7000 is the replacement for (and much improved over) the D90. Still, the D90 is a great camera, and a newer model than the D200.</p>
<p>I say get either the D90 or the D7000</p>
-
<p>Wait... it may be a typo but you mention two different cameras.</p>
<p>The D3000 and the D300 are two VERY different cameras. The D3000 is Nikon's lowest priced entry-level DSLR. I would recommend spending a little more and getting the D5000 instead, it has a better image sensor for starters. The same sensor that's in the D90, which is an excellent camera and a step up from the others you mentioned.</p>
<p>The D300 is much more expensive and also a much better camera. But it may be "too much" camera for you right now. I'd suggest the D5000 or the D90.</p>
<p>Edit: I forgot that Nikon actually replaced the D3000 with an improved version called the D3100. I'm not sure how much more improved it is... I know they upped the MP on it but I haven't looked at the specs on the sensor or anything. I want to say the D5000 is still a better performer than the D3100, but don't quote me on that.</p>
-
<p>For refrence, I use two (Paul Buff) <strong>White Lightning X800 </strong>strobes with softboxes. (umbrellas can be used also) Add a reflector to that combo and you can do a lot of lighting techniques with them.</p>
<p>A lot of people suggest starting with only one light. I would suggest, for portrait photography, to start with two. Adding a reflector will in essence give you a third light source. But you'll probably want/need that second strobe light to help seperate your subject from the background by adding in a backlight or using it as a hair light in some cases.</p>
<p>Bottom line though, is you have to really learn how to use them. I'm still studying about different lighting techniques now to try and improve my images. Another good book that I just picked up is: <em>Master Lighting Guide for Portrait Photographers </em>by Christopher Grey.</p>
-
<p><strong>CAN</strong> you and <strong>SHOULD</strong> you are two different things...</p>
Motion at Night...
in No Words
Posted