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lee_w2

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Posts posted by lee_w2

  1. Not noise. I have seen that before on cameras but ONLY if the exposure and contrast were forced far beyond anything usable. Its the screen sitting on top of the sensor. Not sure if its more accurate to call it the anti-aliasing screen or the IR filter but they give you a grid nonetheless. I have never seen the grid outline forced from a K-5 however. Would appreciate a posted shot of clear sky at f22 for comparison before I swear its not something else.
  2. <p>I think a picture of your spots would help others decide if its just sticky dust or something else. I can usually see the particles on the grid that overlays the sensor when I use a loupe. After 18 months of using my own wet cleaning kit, so far it has taken care of every single spot that the blower could not move on the k20d and k-5. YMMV as always but if you have spots and they bother you, clean it or pay a camera shop to do it so you can get back to having fun.</p>
  3. <p>The real value shows up when you crop the shot to the size you need to show the details on wildlife. That 300mm will look much cleaner when blown up than the 200mm, all else being equal. And yes, as you pointed out the arithmetic says 100-->200 is doubled but 200-->300 is only half again. I measured the birds head and you are getting your 50% increase as you should. Try cropping both to the same size and see how you feel about it.</p>
  4. <p>No doubt everybody has a favorite but after going through a couple different dedicated shutter remotes, I now use the Cactus v5 transceivers since they work as radio flash remotes also as well as high voltage filters for old flashes. Lots of functionality for the price. </p>
  5. <p>If weather resistance and "built like a tank" are not important then I can't imagine anything the my k20d has to offer over the Kr with its 2 generations jump since the K20d. Also if you need video, the flip-card feature on the k20d is not video and again you need the Kr. </p>
  6. <p>FWIW, I have compared test shots with my da16-45, da18-135, da55-300 and da18-55 WR. As expected the 18-55 was the lowest rating in my outdoor shots. The da16-45, which I continue to rave about, and the da18-135 appeared about the same which is saying a lot for the da18-135. Above 100mm however the da18-135 is out of its sweet spot as the da55-300 is sharper althought the color appears similar. I did not test for PF/CA.<br>

    So for a WR walkaround, the da18-135 will satisfy, particularly at the wide end. If the day is going to be mostly at the long end, save money and just use the da55-300. That said, I shot a college basketball game with the da18-135 just because i could with the K-5. Not a fast lens but maybe my most versitile. If it was $399 MSRP it would be a total no brainer buy. If you don't need WR, the 16-45 and 55-300 combo will provide slightly better IQ. IMHO of course.</p>

  7. <p>This may not help but for what its worth, I picked up the 18-135 and although I like it and use it for my walk around lens, its IQ at 135mm is not as sharp as the 55-300 when I tested both together. Its not bad...just not as good at its extreme end as the 55-300 in the middle. I too tired of the da18-250 self-zooming and sold it to fund the 18-135. Glad I did. But if most all your shots with the 55-300 were taken at 300 (like mine), thats your answer. You need both.</p>
  8. <p>Rather than offer solutions, I will add to your requirements list. If weatherproofed camera is what you want, you need weatherproofed lenses (at least one for whatever you like to shoot in show or rain) or you are still stuck inside unless the old trash bag trick is your favorite. IMO, the only place Pentax is really deficient in lens selection is the >300mm stuff since there are none being made currently.<br>

    So I am suggesting you break your request for info down to indicate what size you need for bad weather shooting versus can take it or leave it. </p>

  9. <p>Thats news to me. But the da18-135 I bought was in a normal retail box and had the shade. AFAIK, there is no "L" version like with the da55-300 that ships sans hood. The plain box for kit lens was standard last time I saw one. Those hoods are too expensive to buy......I think you are owed one unless the pictures and descriptions of the kit say otherwise. Good luck.</p>
  10. <p>No, the 18-135 WR is not better than the 16-45 although I can easily see the difference compared to the 18-55 WR (18-135 is better). My tests came out with the 16-45 about the same as the 18-135 across their common range. The 18-135 is also not quite as sharp at 135 as the 55-300. But after I ran all the tests and graded all the lenses I still find the 18-135 is enjoyable to use and its now my first choice when I go out with only a single lens, day or night.</p>
  11. <p>One small correction to Lindy's info. No need to wait for a supervisor. Anyone answering the phone will automatically get the permission for a late swap. That's what the lady on the phone told me. I got a K-5 on Oct 15 and 55 days later called Amazon and they had the new one in my hands 40 hrs later. Even though its way past the 30 days they still reimburse your shipping back the old one. The new one is even more perfect than the first one and Amazon impressed me with their response. <br>

    Now where is Dave with his assessment and some new pics from a K-5 ?</p>

  12. <p>As Haig said, requirements drive solutions, but having just sold my unused kit lens as well as my da18-250mm to buy the new da18-135 WR, I am pleased as punch with it. I tested it against my da18-55 II WR, da16-45 and da55-300. It beats the the da18-55 badly but is not quite as good at 18mm (more PF than I would hope for) as the da16-45, nor as sharp at 135mm as the da55-300. However, its range, WR and IQ are all good enough that it stays on one of my two cams most of the time. The biggest surprise it gave me was how good it is wide-open (F5.6) at 135mm. Very little improvement by stopping down which for an already slow lens is great news. When i say its not as sharp as the da55-300 at 135mm does not mean its not acceptably sharp. For people and most objects (I just shot a college basketball game with it today and was happy) its fine. For fine feather detail on close-ups of song birds, it is not good enough for me, but thats what the da*300 is for.<br>

    So if your requirements are for a general purpose/walk-around lens....I highly recommend it to squeeze into your budget. If your interest is mainly just wide, as Henk said, the da16-45/4 is tops for the cost. You will have enough left over from a used one to pick up more toys. Although the da16-45 requires distortion correction at 16mm, I shoot panoramics using it at 20mm and no correction used. Enjoy the shopping.</p>

  13. <p>Great street shots! The kind I will never have the gumption to get out and take. I believe the first guy/gal with the torso strapped on was cursing you in Klingon by the looks of him. Thanks for filling my void of street shots.</p>
  14. <p>You are in luck with CameraLensRentals.com. I signed on there last night for the Sigma 10-20mm but ended up ordering the Pentax 15mm. They have your lens. It will be a great experience with them...go get it. You may be distracted by the Pentax 12-24mm if you have read enough reviews. :)</p>
  15. <p>Ditto to Dave and Steve. I bought the DA*300 a year ago and take it for a walk almost every day. No issues nor have I even seen stories about this lens having problems, unlike the oft bashed DA*16-50 and 50-135.</p>
  16. <p>Thats a fine looking puppy in a great setting. The Tamron 90/2.8 makes a great puppy portraiture lens doesn't it?</p>
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