jon_reisegg

<p>Hi all. <br>

I have quite recently upgraded from 300/4 AFS to the 300/4 PF VR. Most shots handheld using TC 14II on a DX body. I see that there has been written a lot about VR not having an effect with faster shutter speeds that 1/500, and I'm wondering about the effect of this.<br>

With the 300/4 AFS I normally used 1/1600 to 1/2500 to have a decent success rate for handheld shots, and the 300/4 PF seems to require the same regardless of VR on or off. But if I reduce the shutter speed to 1/250-1/500 with VR on, my surprise came. It seems to be an increase in success rate and generally sharper pictures, with sufficiently low shutter speeds.<br>

It actually makes sense, if the VR improves stability with 4.5 steps and has less effect above 1/500, that 1/360 VR-on gives better stability than using 1/2000 regardless of VR. If this is correct I have to change my practice dramatically when selecting shutter speeds. <br>

Any experience or guidance on above? I’m mostly shooting birds, insects and flowers, and trying to find the most optimal shutter speed. Above of course without any motion blur effects impacting the results. I have no systematic testing to justify the above, it is only a subjective and undocumented experience.</p>

<p>Hmm, interesting. My body is a D7000, and the difference in sound is quite significant. I cannot imagine it should be anything else than the aperture lever. But it seems like the DOF preview button does not use this. It is smooth and silent and seems only to come from the aperture blades.</p>

<p>When I use the 300mm f4/PF VR with TC-14EII, the exposure is much more noisy than without the TC-14. This is obviously due to the mechanical transfer of aperture setting through the TC-14, which does not meet any resistance in the PF lens. This is the only lens I have where I can use the TC-14 so I wonder if I easily can remove the physical aperture transfer mechanism and how I can do it (from which side and which screws), or is this risky business?</p>

<p>Just for info. Not a US model though, but my D7000 bought in Europe has serial starting with 6.</p>

<p>....that is what is so wonderful with this forum. They talk us away from the upgrade sickness and bring us down to the earth again after our dreams, which will follow almost every new announcement coming.</p>

<p>One final question, which I cannot find a clear answer to in all the good responses above. What will give me the best result if some sort of cropping is required, run the FX camera in crop mode, or do the corresponding cropping in post processing?</p>

<p>This is a marvelous forum, always lots a good advices from highly skilled colleges. Thanks a lot, seems like I can save my money for something better than FX.</p>

<p>I'm considering an upgrade from D7000 to D750 for primarily two reasons; autofocus in low light and noiseless high ISO performance. I'm mostly working with wildlife, birds, insects and flowers. The body upgrade is a significant cost for me, but also the lenses give me a concern. My Micro Nikkor 85mm 3.5G will for sure need an upgrade, but my Nikon 300mm 4D w/TC14II and Nikon 70-300 4.5-5.6G can be kept. However, keeping the two telephotos, will I loose the extra reach I gained by the 1.5 crop D7000? Of course I will, but as the D750 has more pixels, can I crop D750 pictures during post processing to the "D7000 reach" and get equal or better resolution/sharpness?<br>

In other words, will I gain anything in the telephoto area from the higher pixel number in FX without investing in bigger lenses?</p>

 

<p>This is quite normal, and I would call it a feature to set up a focus trap. It is also available on D90 and d7000. If you don't want the trap to be set up, set a1 to "release". This can be used as a real focus trap; You may pre-focus on an object at a certain distance, then re-compose, lock the release button in pressed position and just wait until something comes in focus. Useful for wildlife/macro.</p>

<p>Sorry if I make negative impressions about a great camera. I love it already and was just surprised about all the negative discussions in DPReview. I have got my answer and this tread may well be deleted by the facilitator.</p>

<p>Thank you Guys. You all confirm my suspicions, - and exactly DPReview is the source for my concern. That's also the reason why I posted here and not on DPReview.</p>

<p>I'm reading with astonishment a number of forums where people are complaining about the D7000, in particular the focus system seems to cause a lot of problems. I have just received mine, and must admit that the focus system is quite advanced with a number of settings where you easily can go wrong. I also see that a number of the D7000s are returned to Nikon for fixing the problem and are reported ok when they come back, which tells me that it must have been something wrong.<br>

My question is if all these complaints about focus issues are real or if this simply are user errors. And if they are real, how can I test mine to see if I have something to worry about? </p>

<p>Not sure how you read michaels respons, but you are doing less than 1:1 magnification. In the ordinary terminology, this will be 1:1.2</p>

<p>Again, it depends on what you are looking for, but in general June is better than April unless you specifically are looking for spring phenomenons and snow melting. How the nature looks in April is very dependent on where you are and how much snow there has been during winter.</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

Depends on what you are looking for. Eastern Norway has the deep forests and wide farmer land, western Norway has the fjords and contrast between the sea, the green mountain sides and white mountains and glaciers (Geiranger fjord, Sognefjord and Hardanger fjord). Northern Norway (Lofoten) is almost a steep mountain landscape at sea level.<br>

If you want the "tourist way", there is a very nice round trip called "Norway in a nut shell" going from Oslo with train across the mountains (Hardangervidda) to Flaam, boat out the fjord (Sognefjorden and Naeroyfjorden) buss to Voss and train back to Oslo.<br>

Another alternative is to take boat along the west and north west coast with the "Hurtigruta".<br>

If you want a real hike on your own, you should contact "DNT - Den Norske Turistforening" which has a number of cottages and marked tracks in between all over Norway and for public use.</p>

<p>Tons of articles and tests have been written about the Sigma 120-400, and I feel I have read most of them, but still I'm uncertain if it is the right investment. My normal vehicle is Nikon D90 and 18-200VR, which is very flexible, and easy to carry together will everything else you need. I also carry a Micro Nikkor 85mmVR for my close ups. But one short question remains: Has anyone tested the Sigma 120-400 (at long end) versus a cropped image from the Nikon 18-200 to the same size? Primary use is for nature, everything from the small beetle to birds and landscape.</p>

<p>I don't know the D300, but I assume it is quite similar to D90. Here you have to enter the flash group structure in the flash set up meny at the camera. You can also specify output power for the pop up flash or if it should fire at all.</p>