fred_fedak

<p>Recently, I shot my first event using Nikon's diffuser on my SB900. After only about 25 shots or so, within a 10-15 minute period, it overheated. I used the diffuser because the ceiling was way too high to bounce off of. I never encountered this problem when using my Gary Fong diffuser.</p>

<p>Here's another example of what is possible. Lighting was much more abundant, I was about 20 rows from the stage.<br>

http://fredf.fotki.com/machine09/#media</p>

<p>This may prove helpful for you.<br>

I just happened to attend a show this past weekend.<br>

I used a Canon G10 - ISO 1600 - from approx 15 feet in front of the stage.<br>

The stage lighting was very sparse and low so even at this ISO, stopping action was still difficult, but this should give you an idea of what you can expect. Would I use this camera for a serious shoot? of course not, but for remembrance value it does suffice. Follow the link below to go to my site.<br>

http://fredf.fotki.com/planotones11/</p>

<p>Technically speaking, I think Matt is spot on as a place to start, but Bruce's answer is golden.<br>

The old rule still applies, if you want it good, fast, and cheap(free even) OK pick two.</p>

<p>I have not tried it personally, but according to the manual, "RAW Primary, JPEG Secondary" is the option to do just that.</p>

<p>Wow, Wade,<br>

I'm glad that you didn't do any damage. Obviously, (I hope) you have learned your lesson, but I would never think of inserting an unknown card deep into my d300s body without thoroughly inspecting it first. And even then, if it gave me the slightest indication of resistance, I would stop and request a different card. Good shooting. </p>

<p>No, the CF card does not become your "primary" card, only one card can be designated as primary, and you have already chosen the sd card as that. The cf card will automatically accept your images once the sd card is full, if you choose the "Overflow" option under the "Secondary slot function"</p>

<p>Jerry, do you love photography, or are you just a casual snap shooter? As a lover of photography, the number of times I fire my shutter is directly proportional to the joy I get out of my using my equipment. Just think how many good shots might have been missed had the shooter been thinking about keeping his count low. If I wore my shutter out due to using it to its max, I would consider that a good thing. Happy shooting!</p>

<p>Elliot took the words right off of my keyboard. C'mon Chris, shoot man.</p>

<p>Here's another good one. It's free.</p>

<p>http://www.opanda.com/en/iexif/download.htm</p>

<p>Robert<br>

You have already sort of answered your own question. In a nutshell, the difference is that gray market items are not intended for distribution in the United States. That is why they do not come with USA warranties.</p>

<p>Douglas<br>

Sorry for delay, was not ignoring you, I have been swamped lately.</p>

<p>I agree, there is no reason for personal attacks. Your response was, at least a little sarcastic and it arrived at a particularity bad time, and I being one who responds to situations in the same spirit as they are presented to me, did the same to you. I think we are even, and that's behind us now.</p>

<p>With that said, I am also one that demands accuracy, especially in regards to words or thoughts others accuse of me. With that objective in mind, and sticking with the facts only........: I feel that your point about the high probability of underexposure if using TTL is certainly a valid one, however, my subsequent tests had already proven that theory not to have been a factor in my case since I was not able to recreate the problem. It has gone away as mysteriously as it arrived, and I will be most pleased if that remains the case.</p>

<p>You stated, <strong>"Yes, my statement was overly broad. However, I did say "generally" and specifically referred to on-camera flash diffusers."</strong> I assume you are referring to my mention of soft boxes, and I also was referring to the on-camera type. They are definitely meant to be used with the flash head pointed forward.</p>

<p>In your later response to me your statement of <strong>"You apparently dismissed that "guess", but did not say why" </strong>is way off base, for two reasons. 1. In your response of July 19th, you specifically stated ".....<strong>That is not a guess.....</strong>" So, there was no "guess" on your part for me to dismiss, and 2. B. Christopher did, in fact make a guess, based on the same principle, even going so far as to include illustrations to better enable me to get a firm understanding of what he was trying to say. I did not dismiss his guess at all, rather I acknowledged that it could very well have been the reason for my problem since I did recall that I neglected to attach the lens hood when the problem first appeared. That guess was the catalyst that caused me to perform the tests a second time. I obviously took action on it, and did not dismiss it.</p>

<p>Then, at the very end, you did put forth a "guess" when you said: <strong>"Seems to me, after looking at the Fong thingy, that particular diffuser could extend up to/beyond some lenses, especially with the dome attachment." </strong>I completely concur that that does indeed seem to be a strong possibility given the proper variances, (length of lens barrel, lens hood attached, etc.) but so far, with my equipment, seems to be unlikely, since when perched high upon my SB-900, and using the proper lens hoods, it appears to me that the lens elements are well shielded against that possibility. But I will most definitely keep that thought in mind for the future.</p>

<p>Good shooting to you, and thanks to you and everyone else for the input.</p>

 

<p>First, I acknowledged and thanked you for your input, then I added my input/opinion. Sorry if I offended you, I didn't realize you were the final resource of information here. You must be a real prince to live with.</p>

<p>Douglas, I was testing both the flash, and the Lightsphere together, in every conceivable combination. It wasn't until I got to this configuration that I had a problem.<br>

Thanks, but I couldn't disagree with you more about diffusers not being intended to be used when the flash head is pointed forward. What is the lens on the flash head, but a diffuser in itself, not to mention soft boxes.<br>

True, a typical diffuser that comes with the flash and therefore is about the same size as the flash head, really doesn't do much other than to cut down on the amount of light reaching your subject. But that is a whole 'nother thread.</p>

<p>Lots of good guesses but it seems this may remain a mystery.<br>

I re-tested the scenario, both with and without the lens hood. This time there was no underexposure at all. (Very strange since the underexposure occurred multiple times originally) The only difference in the resulting images was that of quality of the light. The exposure levels were consistent, as expected. Hopefully, there will be no further re-occurrence.<br /> <br /> I was shooting with a Nikon 85mm f1.8D AF.</p>

<p>I am not aware of any such indicator other than the ready light blinking, but that does not happen.</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies.<br>

Not using TTL-BL, just TTL<br /><br />Yes, the light could very well have entered the lens since I just realized that I neglected to attach the lens hood during that series of tests. However, that may not matter as it was with a Nikon 85mm 1.8, and the lens hood is not very deep.<br>

I am using an SB-900.<br>

Will test again and advise.<br>

Thanks again.</p>

<p>When using the Gary Fong Lightsphere Collapsible with dome attachment, all is well as long as I am not firing it straight on towards my subject. If I do fire it straight on, the resulting image is underexposed by more than a stop, even though I am shooting TTL. Does anyone know why this is happening? It seems the camera, or flash, is being fooled somehow into thinking there is too much light, and is cutting back on the exposure.</p>

<p>Bruce:<br>

I just purchased a D300s from Calumet Photographic. There was no warranty card in the box, even though in the instruction manual a warranty card is clearly listed as being part of the box contents. Naturally I inquired of Nikon and Calumet immediately. I was assured by both parties that my body was a legitimate US body and that the only thing needed for warranty repairs (god forbid) would be the original bill of sale. Nikon also accepted my on-line registration of the body with no issues.</p>

<p>Interesting, but from a previous poser:<br>

"Nikon repair stations (except for New York and the West Coast) are independent business that will repair your equipment, for a charge, without questioning the source of the item."</p>

<p>I have never seen a "little Nikon USA sticker" on a Nikon lens, nor have I ever seen a "US" prefix on a Nikon serial number of any type. I happened to have purchased a gray market lens in New York years ago. Naturally, the unscrupulous bastard behind the counter never informed me of it, that's why I will never again patronize a NY seller, in person or mail order ever again. I found out the hard way, why their prices are sometimes better than others. Thankfully, it never presented me with a problem as I had no issues with the lens. I found out when I saw there was no warranty card in the box and asked Nikon about it.<br>

Since you are looking for a "used" lens anyway, why worry about the "gray" angle. It doesn't matter.</p>

<p>So, you want to run before you learn to walk.....very bad sign.</p>

<p>I have played around with jpeg fine and raw and can't seem to find any real difference for what I do with the images as a hobbyist.</p>

<p>James, by your statement abo ve, you have answered your own question. For you, there is no reason.</p>

<p><em>".....Someone coming in and taking them away for us would be even better......"</em><br>

Are you in Philadelphia?</p>

<p>Don't know if you are USA, but Post Office has some that work perfectly for<br />this ... some free, some 2.99USD</p>

<p>Yes, USA. Free sounds great, but 2.99 is fine if they are what I am looking for. I'll look into this, but I have never seen an appropriate type box at the PO. Thanks.</p>