ken_tuvman

<p>For future reference > will not let Walgreens process my film again - first roll shot with the Leica IIIF RD was processed by Northcoast Photographic - pictures were much more vibrant.<br>

1st roll was Kodak 400 speed color film - Walgreens got Ecktar 100 - pictures are good but colors look washed out.</p>

<p>Thanks so much - reminds me of a question posed on a motorcycle forum about which oil is best - all great suggestions.<br>

If the iPhone app worked, I'd like that cuz I usually carry my phone with me - holding out for the next generation phone so wouldn't have to upgrade the app for awhile - I've seen an attachment that fits on iPhone that looked pretty neat.</p>

<p>Will check out options still on the smaller light meters - thank you!</p>

<p>The Leica IIIf RD takes amazing pictures - glad I bought it and thanks for your suggestions.<br>

I've got a Sekonic L-558R light meter, about the same size as the camera - interested in a suggestion for a compact and inexpensive, yet accurate light meter. <br>

When using my Hasselblad, I always use the Sekonic.<br>

During my first roll with the Leica, I mostly followed the Sunny 16 rule and had pretty good results. Back in the 70's with my first rangefinder, I believe the only thing I ever carried around was the exposure guide found in a roll of film - still, with the higher cost of film & processing, I'd like to carry a compact light meter as a backup to my judgement.</p>

 

<p>I asked the tech at Walgreens if they use different developing processes for different types of film and he said "no." Does that sound right? <br>

If a lab like North Coast Photo gets a roll of 400, 100 and 60 wouldn't the developing process be different?</p>

<p>It used to be a no brainer to have film processed at a Target or CVS -wondering how "fresh" film chemicals are at these places given 99.9% of the work they get in is digital.<br>

Had my first roll of 35mm (Kodak 400 purchased at CVS) shot with the Leica IIIf RD processed at North Coast Photo - <br>

The next roll I'll want to get developed is Kodak Ektar 100 - there's a Walgreens nearby . . .</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>This pic shot from first roll of Kodak 400 speed film with my 1952 Leica IIIF Summitar, taken while walking in West Los Angeles April 2014.</p><div></div>

<p>Leica IIIF Summitar - "Jake"</p><div></div>

<p>Leica arrived today. Youxin Ye provided a very nice camera and lens - very impressed how clean the glass is. He CLA'd both lens & camera and replaced both shutter curtains and a replaced beam splitter with new.<br>

Pretty intuitive as far as loading film and working controls - Youxin talked me through loading film - got it on the second try - first try film slots weren't in gear. <br>

Heading on a 2 week trip tomorrow to So CA and TX and will stop in a few other states - bringing my light meter - looking forward to using it. <br>

Thanks again for all your great advice - at the end of the day it's an old film camera but I'm sure there's still a lot of magic left inside!</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>When I look at your pictures, I see a lot of neat colors in Cuba. To save weight & keep things simple you might want to shoot color and convert anything special to B&W. I've done this with 120 negatives asking lab to print a color in B&W and have been very pleased with the results. Have been really pleased with service/quality from NCPS in San Diego CA for processing/prints.<br>

Have a great trip!</p>

 

<p>Wonder how I typed a b???? IIIf RD is what I purchased.</p>

<p>Thanks again - picked up some B&W Kodak Professional 400 at the local CVS on close out (still fresh) and a roll of Kodak ultramax also 400 - will buy slower film online.<br>

Camera shipped yesterday - should have tomorrow - will be taking a road trip Friday - plan to shoot with the IIIB. Downloaded a manual and Youxin wants me to call him so he can show me his way of loading film. <br>

Was not familiar with the R51/3 but it's a classic alright. <br>

Stay tuned.<br>

Thanks again!</p><div></div>

<p>I used to buy film from Amazon - choices are slimmer than last time I looked. Where are you buying your film? BH, KEH? <br>

What film brands and speeds are you using in your cameras? The local CVS is closing out on 35mm and has 400 speed but I've always preferred 100 film.</p>

<p>Will I want to use a UV filter - I don't on my Hasselblad lenses but do on my Nikon DSLR. I see the adapter but not sure what it's used for - guessing for attaching a filter like a polarizer?<br>

I use a Sekonic L558 light meter but it will be much to carry around with the Leica. I read about a light meter app for the iPhone - anyone have any experience with this? Is it accurate?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>What an education I received in this thread - thanks again!</p>

<p>Decision Made: <br /> Leica IIIF RD and Summitar 50/2 - purchasing from Youxin Ye.<br /> Ideally Canon P would be my first choice but I may be surprised with all the finite details on the Leica.<br /> Youxin has made a fair proposal and the camera and lens will be CLA'd plus he's including a lens cap, strap & 1/2 case. The equipment will come with paperwork stating the CLA date and a 1 year warranty. I feel good with this decision and after speaking with him, corresponding via email, and reviews from folks like you!<br /> My problem with eBay is I can get a "good deal" on equipment and then need to turn around and send in for cleaning/repair. I got lucky with my Hasselblad 501c camera kit purchased locally on Craigslist from a University student who used it a few times and lost interest - but I purchased a nice Zeiss modern wide angle lens, a 50mm FLE T and after 6 months the shutter leaf blade stopped working - I sent it in for service and it added another $200 to cost of lens - still happy but with my first rangefinder camera, this purchase works because I'll the equipment and not have to send it anywhere initially for repair. Plus he's very knowledgable and will answer a phone call or email if I'm having any problems getting started. <br /> Plus, it will look nice with my BMW Airhead! Thanks, guys! Learned a lot in this thread!</p><div></div>

<p>Gosh guys - this is tough! Way too many choices. <br>

Mr. Ye can offer me a fair price on a Leica camera body but wants more than I want to pay for a Sumitar 50/2 lens. Wondering if I could buy the body from Mr. Ye (IIIF RD) and pick up one of the Russian lenses as discussed in above posts? <br>

I know the upside of buying equipment from him is it includes CLA, which is money well spent. Wondering what caveats I'll have on a used lens - decisions, decisions.</p>

<p>I emailed Youxin Ye and he hit the nail on the head for me - he's suggesting Leica body as parts are readily available - not so with Canon - reminds me of the BMW restorations - parts are always available and for my Honda projects, parts always a challenge. He suggested the Leica IIIf RD - will focus on that.</p>

<p>Great lens suggestions - thanks again!</p>

<p>Thanks, David for your comment above about the older lenses falling by the wayside - your comment validates that in general, a lens made in the 1950 -60's is susceptible to mold or haze.<br /> In looking at lens prices online, specifically the Jupiter 3, it seems it would be a lot less $$$ to purchase a Kiev but they have the Jupiter 8 lens - what are the differences in Jupiter lens models - I'm sure price has to do with quality and sharpness. The other lens option, described above by JDM is the Helios 1.8<br /> Thinking I can find a nice Canon P body and mate it with one of the lenses above, based on what i've read the amazing photos posted by JDM.<br /> One more question - probably like asking which brand of oil is the best to use on the BMW forum but here goes - I'm interested in the Canon P or Leica IIIc body - the Canon looks a lot faster to operate - film loading, advancing, focus, shoot - using the Leica looks like a process - lots of preparation / deliberation before taking a shot.<br>

About how much $$$ to CLA either of the camera bodies?<br>

<br /> Thoughts?</p>

<p>Good Evening!<br>

As my learning curve on RF cameras is evolving I believe I'm narrowing things down here and would appreciate your input.<br>

Looking online at all the various makes and models, particularly the Canons and Leicas, I kept wondering "why are the sellers not selling camera & lens, mostly camera bodies." I guess there's more profit selling the parts a-la-carte or that the majority of photo enthusiasts / professionals like to choose their own lenses. <br>

Am right now pretty certain I'm going to pull the trigger on a good condition Canon P and then search for a Seranar 50mm lens. From what I'm seeing the eBay sellers in Japan are offering pretty decent camera bodies. <br>

It's been a process and I've looked at all the camera models you've suggested. I keep coming back to the Canons and the reviews really rave about the P models.</p>

 

<p>Good Morning!<br>

All great info - so many rangefinder camera choices online - my heads spinning!<br>

First, the pics shared by JDM with the Kiev are amazingly brilliant, well composed and sharp! <br>

And yes, Mark hits the nail on the head - I'm a engineer, not by trade but think like one - always have been a tinkerer and like to know how things work. I've had good experience at KEH and they do have a return policy and a good reputation. At this point, will keep looking towards a Leica IIIF, M2 or Canon P. Don't need a built in light meter, as I have a very nice Sekonic hand held.<br>

I enjoy shooting B&W with the Hassy. Picture below was exhibited at the MN State Fair last summer - I think what did it was the square format, amazingly sharp detail of the Zeiss lens, and going with B&W vs color - it's also well composed - sometimes I get lucky - and the more I practice the luckier I get!</p>

<div></div>

<p>So much great info to digest - I guess this is gonna take some time to process and sort out - luckly for me, patience is a quality I now have but took a long time to acquire!<br>

I do wear glasses and use my right eye - hmm . . . lots to think about!</p>

 

<p>David - thanks for your reply. </p>

<p>Thanks all - this thread just gets more and more interesting! So many cameras to choose from. Almost pulled the trigger last night on a Canonet but pressed the "pause" button - no rush, right? I've got the Nikon DSLR kit with lenses and the Hasselblad 501c with 3 lenses. <br>

I own 3 BMW motorcycles, 2 that I restored - there's a sister model to the Airhead called URAL - sounds like a similar story from Leica / Kiev - Russia took over a BMW production facility, guessing in East Germany and started producing the URAL - it's a nice machine but not as refined as the BMW's.<br>

With that said, the Kiev 4a looks interesting - just wondering from a quality standpoint how the workings/build of the camera and glass quality/sharpness of lens compares to the Nikon & Leica lenses? I've noticed a couple brands of lenses on the Kiev's - one is Jupiter and other Helios - is one "better/sharper" than the other?<br>

On the selling side, when the day comes that I decide to part with a camera, I know a name brand will draw more attention than not.<br>

Still soaking it all in so keep your comments coming, please!!!</p>

<p>Appreciate all replies - Steve Bellayr - like your suggestions - may dive in and try the Canonet - I used to own a Canon Ftb back in the day - what a great build the Canons are!<br>

Canonet looks interesting and good value for sure - will keep the group posted!</p>

<p>Just so I understand John Shriver - the 1.8 Canon & Serenar are essentially the same lens but black/chrome shown on later models is more prone to haze. This is not an issue with the 1.5 model.<br>

Am on the lookout for the P and 7 model, came across this - seller says there is a little haze in the chrome serener 1.8 - saw the on Ebay - is this a good price for this outfit? <br>

171277419819</p>

<p> </p>