sean_k

<p>Well, you should also think about the shutter life left on classic 5D you are considering to buy at $800-1000. If you need to replace shutter, it will cost you another $300~400. Personally, I think it's a great camera, but not worth spending that much money knowing that it will die sooner than other cameras at that price.</p>

<p>I can't understand some people saying bride and groom deserve messed up photos since they only paid $600.</p>

<p> I'm not gonna value the original poster's images, but according to her she said she's been shooting wedding photos for 4 years without complaints. I assume bride and groom has seen some sample photos and maybe thought $600 is the right or great value. I think the point here is the original poster hasn't met the quality promise (maybe not as high as $2000 photographs) so she should refund money back to the customer for that reason.</p>

<p>If you really believe high cost is the only way to get your rights for refund or settlement, next time you get dirty stuff in your food from fast food restaurant don't even think about suing them since you only paid $5 for a meal and the restaurant shouldn't pay you because you made a cheap decision.</p>

<p>Well, since you mentioned mid-zoom lens, I'm assuming you don't like carrying all those lenses around and switching frequently, then I would probably sell some of those prime lenses (if money is a factor) and just get 24-70 or 24-105. <br>

I went with 24-105 since it performs similar to 24-70 but with IS, but since it is F4, I am using my 50 1.4 for bokeh and faster shooting. <br>

One thing with 24-70 is that as you probably read somewhere, you have a slight chance of getting not so sharp copy, but if you can test and buy at a local shop (it can even be a NYC shop too) then you will probably avoid getting defective one.<br>

So it depends on what you want to shoot in what type of conditions, but 24-105 + 50 1.x can do same thing 24-70 does. And you can always compensate image quality difference with minor and quick postprocessing.</p>

<p>I was thinking about same thing when I got my 70-200 f/4 IS few years ago. Image qualtity between IS and non-IS versions should be same. But the IS for this lens is very very useful if you're shooting at close to 200mm. Because of the length of the lens and weight of the camera and the lens, it's hard to hold the camera stable enough without the IS (when I turned IS off). And this lens has 2 IS modes, one in all direction and one in up/down stabilization so it can be used for panning. I really haven't used it for panning, but it may come in handy sometime. I'm reall happy that I got the IS version. </p>

<p>Thank you Danny and Kari. I don't do serious editing but it just disappointed sometimes when I see the print and also photo on some other computer. My laptop has full HD screen and pretty decent graphic card, so I thought pictures looked better on my screen. But what good is it if print and also image seen from other screen is so different from mine.<br>

Anyway, after googling little more, I learned that Spyder 3 express can calibrate laptop monitor too, so I ordered one today. So I'll give it a try and see what difference it makes. I understand that in order to get perfect match, printer must be calibrated too, but I'm hoping monitor calibration will make significant difference. : )<br>

And I will try calibrating external LCD monitor too and see if that screen is better for photo editing/printing.</p>

 

<p>Well, actually I have same issue as the original poster. I read many posts and people suggest calibrating the monitor and printer. But I using a laptop and wondering if there is a way to calibrate laptop monitor. Only hardware control is brightness.</p>