radiotyson

<p>If the beep screams "Amateur Newbie" then I would hate to see what a bad photo screams.</p>

<p>Personally, I leave the beep on unless I'm in a quiet concert setting. The cool "quiet" feature on my d300s lets me turn it and all other sounds off with a dial spin. Good feature.</p>

<p>"Three Songs, No Flash" was an excellent book, mostly because it didn't focus on what gear/settings/technique to use when shooting concerts. However, seems like you want to understand the basics of f-stop, ISO, etc... check out the NatGeo field guide to Photography... helped me out alot in the beginning. Very "lamen's Terms" and straight forward.</p>

<p>If you are shooting with a d3000, you absolutely can't go wrong with the Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (around $100 bucks) and the Nikkor 35mm DX f1.8 (about $100 bucks). Both of these lenses are high quality fast aperture with good focus speeds... although now that I think about I'm not sure if the 50 is internal focus or screw driven, which would mean it won't autofocus on the d3000. Either way, pick up the 35mm its a great piece of low-cost glass.</p>

<p>Doubt it is true HDR - 3 or more exposures layered together in Photoshop - however it might be a combination of good lighting and "Fake" hdr. If you shoot a single raw image and process it out of something like lightroom into 3 different exposures/files and then merge in photoshop.</p>

<p><img src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs240.snc4/39319_137511569622733_136345859739304_181064_5724109_n.jpg" alt="" width="479" height="720" /><br>

Here is a shot of Jack Ingram at the local fair. Really really close! this is 100% crop with Nikon 35mm f1.8</p>

<p>Typically Concerts at county fairs have a close barrier and the "photo pit" is right up against the stage - so close you can reach out and touch the performer. Also, fair stages are typically low, I'm tall at 6'5" so I have to crouch most of the 3 songs unless I am off to one side. I'll shoot with a 35mm prime (crop sensor camera) so effectively about 50mm and get great shots of individuals. After the alloted 3 songs you can usually get away with taking photos from the stands or behind the festival seating (look for the lighting and sound guys). Plan on using your ultra wide in the photo pit (especially if you want photos with more than one member of the band. Most fairs don't have crowded pits, but I haven't been to the Minnesota State fair, so could go either way.</p>

<p>When I shoot concerts I usually shoot all the bands playing and approach them after their set and after they have got out of the way of the next band. Usually I will grab one and congratulate them on an excellent set and offer to send some photos their way. I'll usually get a card with an email and a day or so later I will send watermarked (small corner) photos their way. I won't post these images anywhere before the band gets them. I always include in my email a line like "Feel free to use these wherever you want i.e. website, facebook, myspace etc... and if you want full size high res images for any other project just let me know." More often than not they will immediately post the pictures all over the place and send back an email with a huge "thank you". If I'm feeling really ambitious I will pursue the band further. Knowing the band is a great way to get photo credentials for concerts and you can even try to sell them band portraits (to be shot at a later date). Bands love it when people want to help them, because so many folks say "No". At the end of the day almost all bands are broke, and they really don't need you.</p>

<p>Most concert venues don't allow flash - So I never bring it. I also feel that the light show is a big part of any concert, so it's a shame to destroy that light technicians hard work with a strobe - and, the crowd and band hate it.<br>

Grab a couple prime f1.4 or f1.8 and you'll need a good zoom lens - maybe `18-55 f2.8 if you are real close or a 70-200 f2.8 if you are further away.<br>

Something I do while shooting bands is to focus on the rythym of the band, and hit the shutter on drum beats and big moments - this is when you get the most emotion out of any given band member. (except the drummer, who I shoot in the off-beat, so his sticks are in the air).</p>

<p>As a photographer who regularly submits photos to the local newspaper, I wouldn't worry too much. Chances are you aren't going to get any cash out them. Also, if you make a big fuss out of it the Paper will do the minimum to appease you, and then Never, Ever, use your photos again. I would contact the paper and ask for credit in a correction and assure them that if they ever want another photo to contact you directly. A photo with your name in the cutline is far more valuable (and costs you nothing) than the hundred's of dollars you could spend on advertising.<br>

After building a good relationship with my local paper, I have been accredited so many images that now when people see me taking photos in public, they ask me if I am shooting for the paper - sometimes they think I actually work for the paper, which is fine with me - helps get me invited to cool events. Plus, I often get calls from clients who have seen my photos in the paper and want me to shoot something for actual Cash. Pretty cool. Never forget that having published photographs is awesome, and the newspaper is never going to pay much for a photo - but public exposure from a reliable and respected source like the newspaper is invaluable!</p>

 

<p>Unfortunately that clone job is rather obvious. It's all one color... brown. the back of the eye is multiple shades of brown. I would do it again, zoom in really really really close and do it again. Be patient.</p>

<p>Also, if you have a similar picture of this creature than you might be able to copy paste that texture into there... with some good blending... take your time.</p>

<p>Seems pretty ridiculous that you are complaining about switching from color to black & white in camera when you should really do that in post-production anyway. And besides nikon has the "my menu" which lets you put a bunch of menu options in one list for easy access... did you try this?</p>

<p>I would have to say be careful with that flash when the fog machines are on... typically there is a lot more fog than you can see and the flash will illuminate that before the subject and cause a really nasty haze. Sometimes that haze is cool, but only for a couple shots.<br>

As for the f2.8 it seems like you will need a faster lens for this show (especially since the flash may turn out useless) I hardly ever use a flash - only when I need to fill shadows under someone's hat or something - Typically you can get great shots with a prime lens at f1.4 or f1.8 maybe 50mm or 85mm.</p>

<p>I would go for the Nikkor - Get a Used one or a refurbished one and save some dough. Adorama has a great selection of used/refurb Nikon glass.</p>

<p>Personally I prefer the 3 stage rubber (i know... rubber? ) lens hoods you can find on Ebay for about 5 bucks. They thread in to your filter mount - seem to work great as long as you aren't using a wide angle lens.<br>

just ebay search for "3 stage rubber lens hood"</p>

<p>Helen - you Rock. </p>

<p>I Will call Nikon on tuesday. Thanks for your help!</p>

<p>Formatted card - no improvement.</p>

<p>Camera works beautifully with an SDHC card in it. <br>

I have tried it with no SD card in at the same time - same problem.<br>

Reformatting CF (kingston 8gb 133x brand new) now....</p>

<p>Hey Everyone,</p>

<p>I recently got my Nikon d300s (refurbished) from adorama - Love it.</p>

<p>However, When I insert a CF card the camera wont turn on, and if I put the card in when the camera is already on it locks up. No LCD, no menus no shutter nuthin.</p>

<p>I have tried 2 different CF cards that both work in my buddy's 5d.</p>

<p>You think this is a camera defect or am I just missing some menu option somewhere?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>So, I Ordered a d300s from Adorama on Monday and because of Shavout (spelling?!) they still haven't shipped it :( Nothing against Jewish people or their Holidays - but why do you think 2 major photo equip. companies (B&H and Adorama) both observe a Jewish Holiday when most companies don't?? Hmmmmm</p>

<p>Ohhhh - to be able to grab the d700 - Unfortunately its at least $1000 bucks more than the d300s. I just can't see myself being able to afford that any time soon.</p>

<p>As for the 85mm lenses - typically it's just way too close for me. Usally the 50mm is too much - I have to shoot the opposite side of the stage instead of whats right in front of me. the 24 f2.8 would be a nice addition for those well-lit concert halls where there is about 2 inches of space between the security barrier and the stage.</p>

<p>Yeah I don't plan on using the 18-55 or 55-200 in low light - I can do fine with the 2 primes - Effectively 50mm and 75 mm with crop factor. The two zooms are just for that "other stuff" when a prime is a pain and i'm just getting snapshots in great outdoor lighting.<br>

I like the looks of the 80-200 f2.8 nikkor.</p>

<p>Hey Everyone,</p>

<p>I'm wondering if any of you have any input on my planned starter Nikon Kit to replace my current pentax rig. I shoot mostly Concert/Event photography and every once in a while some sports.<br>

Currently I have -<br>

Pentax k-x<br>

pentax FA 50mm 1.4<br>

Pentax kit lenses 18-55 & 55-200mm</p>

<p>I find the pentax lacking in autofocus speed especially in low light - and I feel I should invest in either Nikon or Canon at this point before I invest a ton in Pentax Glass.<br>

The kit I set up at Adorama includes:</p>

<p>Nikon d300s (refurb)<br>

Nikon 50mm f1.8 AF<br>

Nikon 35mm f1.8 AF-S DX<br>

Nikon 18-55 f3.5-5.6 DX (kit lens)<br>

Nikon 55-200 f4-5.6 ED-IF AF-S DX VR</p>

<p>The two primes is what I will use predominantly - The two zooms for fill in and the occasional outdoor shot - the 55-200 for sports until I can afford a 70-200 f2.8 VR<br>

<br />What do you think? Any experience with this gear?</p>

<p>Seems to me Like you will probably have anything you need on Hand - I shoot concerts with poor lighting for fun every week and I've found that my 50mm prime is more than sufficient IF I can get close - otherwise take a TON of shots with the zoom and hope for a few that aren't blurry.<br>

Just don't be afraid to get up close and get those shots at 1.4 or 1.8 aperture. If it's rock-concert style gel lighting the lights look great in Bokeh - and you can really get some cool angles.</p>

<p>I don't know how your camera works but on my Pentax K-x I can take a shot, and then adjust the WB and the LCD displays an approximation of what that should would look like if I took it again with new white balance.... Helps alot for these tricky photos.</p>

<p>Just noticed my local Wal-Mart has added HP Photolab "Print stations". Does anyone have experience with these? Are they better/worse than the kodak print yourself jobs?</p>