Tony-S

On 5/2/2023 at 12:58 PM, gwhitegeog said:

Ansel Adams zone system? Expose for shadow, print for highlights'?

“Develop” (the film) for the highlights. 

Kansas Air Museum in Wichita. Yes, #25 red. 

Ilford Delta 100, Perceptol 1+1 68F, Canon A-1, 35mm f/2N.

Just a follow-up; lithium battery in my A-1 works just fine! Ilford Delta 100, Perceptol 1+1 for 17 min at 68F.

Yes you need a leader of the appropriate length. Here’s how I do it with my Bronica GS-1. https://www.flickr.com/photos/digi-film/albums/72157627480665766

I use a lithium 6v in my F-1N with no problems so I suspect A series are fine, too. 

Do you have a link for this part?

It's definitely a beast. Mine pretty much has been in its case for the last 10 years. It takes a bit of effort to carry the thing around, but it does produce pretty decent images. I much prefer the Bronica R645, but it's developed the tight spool nut, so I need to get it fixed before I shoot with it again so it doesn't break the winding mechanism.

 

Fujica 35 SE : A wonderful range of unusual rangefinder cameras with interesting and agreeable ergonomics and excellent Fujinon lenses.

 

[ATTACH=full]1429667[/ATTACH]

 

I just put a roll of Acros II in my Fujica 35 SE last week. Still have a dozen frames to shoot.

' date=' post: 5948599, member: 10999298"']Sorry. The Nikon F, and F2, and Leica M-2 and M-3 will be taking pictures long after most electronic cameras are in camera heaven. And dependably. Just to name some examples. In Canon, the F-1 mechanical and FTb will be making images dependably when the electronic Canons are having issues. For landscapes, a nice FTb is a good choice for short money.

And I guarantee you, the accuracy of the Nikon F, and F2, and Leica M-2 and M-3 shutter speeds will be off, unless you have their shutters calibrated every few years. Perhaps not a big issue with negative film, but potentially a serious issue with slide film. With electronically controlled shutters, they will be nearly perfect every time.

Take out the battery and tell me that.

This is silly. It's like saying your horse and buggy are superior to a car without gasoline.

I guess you have never taken photos when the weather dipped to -30F and you were hours away from a place to warm up.

I already stated that extreme cold was a limitation. It was, in fact, a reply to you. Did you not see that post, or did you simply ignore it? And how often do you even shoot in extreme cold?

Features? As far as film cameras go, I can't think of a real feature that say an A1 has that makes it a better choice than an F1n or an F1N other than cool looking blinking lights.

I have all three. The A-1 wins on weight and included features. The F-1N requires the AE finder for aperture priority auto exposure, and requites either a winder or motor drive for shutter priority AE, both of which require batteries. The A-1 (and F-1N) also win with their fractional shutter speeds in AV modes. The A-1 and F-1N have much more accurate and reproducible shutter speeds than the F-1n when using the electronically controlled shutters. This is true for any electronically controlled shutter on any camera made by any manufacturer.

But heck, if you like all electric cameras, fine. Your choice. I don't. My choice. Kinda like an electric screwdriver is handy, but it's worthless when the batteries die.

I use my F-1N most and rarely the F-1n. And I always carry an extra battery - which I have never had to replace in the field.

A bit late, but there's Imaging Resource's "Camera Comparometer". Where, in my opinion, the Foveon images don't compare well to almost any Bayer camera. But then neither do those from Fuji's much-loved X-trans sensors.

Maybe there's something wrong with my eyes, because I principally shoot with Fovens (sd Quattro, dp1 Merrill, dp2 Merrill) and a Fuji X-T4. :)

I was a Canon guy starting 40 years ago, first with an A-1, then F-1n, F1-N, EOS A2e and EOS 3 film cameras, then Rebel XT and 5D Mark II digital. Then, in 2012 I bought a Sigma SD15 with an 18-50mm f/2.8 just to have as a second camera. Loved the color the camera generated and once the sd Quattro was available (2016) I went all-in with Sigma. I sold my digital Canon gear except my Canon G1 X Mk II point-and-shoot (great camera). I also have a Sony a7 that I bought second hand. It's also a good camera but it mostly sits around because of its terrible ergonomics and menu layout.

I really use the Fuji XT-4 for low-light situations or as a general out-and-about camera. One great thing is that all my FD lenses work just fine on it, either alone or with a SpeedBooster (mostly used with wide-angle lenses).

I have a couple of questions:

 

1. Which SA lenses perform the best?

I guess that depends on what you're wanting. But the Art and Contemporary lenses are all very good to excellent on crop sensor cameras like Sigmas.

2. Does the SD1 have any advantages over the Quattro?

SD1 is an SLR with a Merrill sensor (as do the dp1 Merrill, dp2 Merrill and dp3 Merrill). The Quattros are all use Quattro sensors. The sd Quattro is APS-C (1.5x crop) and sd Quattro H is APS-H (1.3x). Personally, I like the Merrill images just a bit better, but sill love the images from my sd Quattro. After shooting it for a few months (mostly landscapes), I sold my Canon 5D II and most of its lenses (17-40L, 135L, Sigma 24-70 and Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZE). I kept my Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EF and Canon 28-105mm because I still use my A2e and EOS 3 film SLRs. I wish I had kept the 17-40L, 135L and Zeiss 35mm. There were fantastic lenses.

Tony and Rick

Wonderful sets you guys took

I acquired Sigma DP0Q and DP1Q and getting acquainted to them

DP1Q has very strange hood. In principle, you can not take photo with hood attached to.

Something's not right. If it's the proper hood and properly mounted, there should be no vignetting. Is there an identifier stamped on the hood to make sure it's for the dp1 Quattro?

Here's an (extreme) example of the 17mm flare (Bryce Canyon National Park). In my experience, all FD lenses have more flare issues than multicoated lenses from other manufacturers.

Hey, I use an F1N too, but it does not completely depend on the battery. Same with my EFs. As for extreme cold, well, that IS a concern here.

It does for autoexposure, as I noted in my post. And, it is limited in its available shutter speeds.

Fractional shutter speeds? Hmm, is it really that important to have 1/425th and 1/500th?

It can, particularly for slide film, as I noted in my post.

Most shutters are not that accurate in the first place.

Over time, electronic shutters retain their accuracy compared to mechanical shutters.

I guess if I lived in Florida I wouldn't care about the cold. Bottom line is that I want cameras (read Film cameras) that I can depend on regardless of cold, dead batteries, defective batteries, corrosion, or just bad electronics.

Sure, I'm sure you feel that way. But the trade-offs versus the features that come with electronically-controlled cameras is a compromise that most aren't willing to make. If mechanical cameras were so good, why did nearly all camera manufacturers abandon them? Simple - they were inferior in nearly all respects.

Don't get me wrong - I am a big user of manual cameras. But give me a choice of an AT1 of an FTb, it's FTb every time. I will not use a camera that relies completely on a battery.

I don't get this. The only time to worry about the battery is if you're in extreme cold. Otherwise, the features of a camera with an electronically controlled shutter and fractional shutter speeds in auto exposure modes far outweigh the limited manual cameras. The difference may not be substantial for the AT-1, but for all the other A-series and New F-1 it's not even close, particularly with slide film, IMO. Carry a spare battery if it runs out of juice (which has never happened in the 41 years I've been using Canon A-1 and F-1N cameras).

Given that the battery adapter seems like the best long term option, I ordered one and some 386 batteries. I am so relieved! Now it's time to load some film and go nuts. Thank you all so much.

Did you order one with a resistor that drops the voltage to 1.35V? Some of them only adapt the battery.