bikealps

<p>Yes, I had it on my old laptop, but I uninstalled it when I decommissioned the old laptop.</p>

<p>new laptop is a Lenovo X220. It runs Windows 7. Only "drive" is a SSD. there is no DVD drive or CD-ROM.</p>

<p>good suggestion to contact Adobe chat.</p>

<p>I have Photoshop CS5.5 on my desktop computer which is my main editing machine. I purchased Web Premium a few years ago and have the disks and a license.</p>

<p>I would like to install Photoshop CS5.5 on my laptop. I had it on my old laptop, but I retired it. My new laptop does not have a CD-ROM drive. So I figured I could find a download on-line and enter my license key. Unfortunately, all I can find is CS6, CC, or pirate versions.</p>

<p>Short of tracking down a CD-ROM drive, can anyone give me any suggestions on how I might be able to download Photoshop CS5.5 on my laptop?</p>

<p>I have a set of short videos I have made using Premier Pro. They must be played on a laptop (not my desktop where I have made them) and played using a projector having 1028x800 resolution.</p>

<p>I have exported the videos using AVI and MP4 (H.264) formats. The AVI format does not play reliably on the laptop. I don't know why. I haven't tried MP4 yet, but I assume it will work fine.</p>

<p>The projector will be 1028x800. I have made the videos using 1280x720 content.</p>

<p>I'm assuming I can just resize the Windows Media Player window to fit on the projector screen, but is it possible to set a 1028-wide format for exporting? Maybe 960x540? The export list has a whole bunch of custom export sizes, but I don't see a way to set the size...</p>

<p>I'm trying to paste something from photoshop to powerpoint.</p>

<p>I've take the original photo, selected the bit I want, pasted it into a new .psd document with a transparent background, and then exported a .jpeg. I now want to import it into a powerpoint file, keeping the transparent background -- the object is not quite rectangular. When I do it, I get a white background.</p>

<p>How do I get the .psd exported to .jpeg and then imported to powerpoint and have powerpoint recognize a transparent background?</p>

<p>Thanks for the info on setting aperture. I think that solves my problem.<br>

I think the D90 will be suitable for my purposes. Besides, I already own it, so it's free.<br>

And the D90 does indeed have both an internal microphone and a microphone input. From my test shots, the Rode microphone is much more directional than the internal microphone (doesn't pick up background noise) and also doesn't pick up camera noise. I think it'll do well or my purposes.</p>

<p>I think I have an answer for my own question. to shoot video, the exposure time has to be less than 1 over the frame rate. With a frame rate of 24 fps, the maximum exposure time is thus 1/30s. For my test shot, I did not have enough light.<br>

But the camera fooled me because it still states an exposure time. Instead, it is not allowing me to stop down.<br>

So I need to try this again with more light.<br>

And a year ago I shot some stills in the room I will shooting in. At ISO 200 and f1.4 I got 1/1000s. In that case I can do f4 at 1/60s and be ok.<br>

Any guidance on the maximum usable ISO for video on a D90? ISO 200 is the base. I'm assuming ISO 800 won't be too bad, considering you only get 1280x760 pixels vs. still resolution of 4288x2848 pixels.<br>

I'm surprised the camera didn't warn me or inform me better.</p>

<p>I need to take a video of someone talking, seated at a table, in a cafeteria, so I'm doing a practice run at home. I have a D90, tripod, and a Rode microphone. I'm using a 50 f1.4 lens. I have good selection of lenses to choose from.<br>

My dry run looks ok except that the video looks like it was shot wide open (background blur matches stills at f1.4) and the focus isn't quite dead on. My subject moves a bit. I think I need to shoot at f2.8 or f4 to get some practical depth of field.<br>

If I shoot at f1.4 ISO 800 I get 1/60. Shutter speed increases as I stop down in still mode, but I'm not sure what's happening in live view/video.<br>

How can I set f stop in video mode?<br>

And a few other questions:</p>

<ul>

<li>grain --a D90 gets pretty grainy for stills at ISO 800, but the room I'll be in is just window light. What's a reasonable limit for ISO in video mode? It seems like grain isn't such a big deal because video is a sequence of frames.</li>

<li>shutter speed -- video must have a limit on "shutter speed." Hmm... in live view there is no shutter, so what's going on?</li>

<li>aperture -- if I want to get a subject "in focus" while they are speaking, what f stop do I need? I'll have them be relatively still.</li>

</ul>

<p>I know people can take decent videos indoors on point-and-shoots with tiny sensors, so it seems that I should have no problem with my D90... but why can't I control aperture? is there a setting I'm missing?</p>

<p>I'm (finally) upgrading from LR3 (gasp) to LR5. LR5 has a new module for album production. It seems like LR can now replace photoshop for this function. Skimming the Kelby book, it looks like it would be easy to make templates and then export .jpegs, but all the examples are Blurb only.</p>

<p>Blurb is a very good press-printed consumer album. I have produced Blurb albums in the past and am very pleased with their quality, but I need to produce lay-flat books for wedding clients.</p>

<p>It seems like LR5 should be fine for making lay-flat albums with other publishers. Are there any issues doing this? Can I export LR5 album designs to Bay Photo, Graphistudios, WHCC, Pictobooks, etc.?</p>

<p>And all of these labs provide templates for album design. Can I import templates from these labs into LR5?</p>

<p>Lastly, about 2 years ago, Vail Fucci posted a link to a very nice tutorial on album design on YouTube by Leather Craftsmen. It had some nice ideas about creating page backgrounds from texture shots. Can anyone recommend any other useful tutorials on album design, either tool logistics, planning, or artistic techniques, please?</p>

<p>Cool. Sounds like a Sony camera is it. What's the tradeoff between a RX100 and RX10? And I presume I need the type II for BSI to get better sensitivity. I think the Sony lit says it improves sensitivity by 1 stop.</p>

<p>JC, I need a retractable lens. I cannot accept a lens cap. A G10 size is tolerable but not preferable.</p>

<p>I have been planning to buy a new point & shoot for some time now. I currently have a Canon G10, but it is a brick (too heavy, too large) and I would like better image quality (15 Mpixels is nice, but it is grainy). Admittedly comparing a G10 to a D3 is unfair, but when I get the G10 photos in photoshop, I am disappointed at their sharpness and it is grainy, even in sunny f16.</p>

<p>My main application will be for bicycle vacations where I will carry the camera in my jersey pocket. Therefore, it must have an automatic lens cover and it can't be too large. I think this forces me to a point & shoot.</p>

<p>My main considerations are:</p>

<ul>

<li>I want a big sensor</li>

<li>I would like a good stitch mode</li>

<li>I need the lens to retract into the body when not used... a removable-lens camera with lens caps is not acceptable</li>

<li>I would like a wide angle of 28 mm, preferably 24 mm.</li>

<li>I would like fast shutter delay.</li>

</ul>

<p>I was at a mall earlier today and saw a Sony RX100 II. It seems like a really good choice. It claims to have a large sensor (13.2 mm x 8.8 mm), an automatic "wave-around" stitch mode, image stabilization, and good shutter response time.</p>

<p>This seems to be the right choice for me. What else should I consider? Any thoughts on this camera compared to others?</p>

<p>I would like to produce and edit a video. I have been a photographer for 20+ years but have no experience in video production. I need to create this video by late April.</p>

<p>I understand some of the basics:</p>

<ul>

<li>can use a camera to shoot video or a camcorder,</li>

<li>need a separate microphone to get good quality audio (isolate any mechanical sounds from the camera)</li>

<li>if I use a large-sensor camera (e.g. DSLR), need to be careful with focusing</li>

<li>need to light it carefully, but cannot use flash (video requires constant light) -- fortunately I have one softbox (18" octagon) that can handle heat</li>

<li>need to edit in some kind of software (e.g. Adobe Premiere Pro)</li>

</ul>

<p>but I've got a lot to learn. Any tips on how I can learn this quickly? Books? websites? Youtube videos?</p>

<p>I will need to add text over some of the video clips. I will need to do some photoshop-like things.</p>

<p>Some of this I will have to shoot on location and cannot bring much equipment. It will be indoors with low to moderate light (easily shootable with a D3 but a bit dim for other equipment) and overeseas. I understand lighting pretty well but cannot bring lighting equipment and prefer not to buy expensive flood lights</p>

<p>For equipment, I have a Nikon D90 and a Canon G10. My Nikon D3 does not have video. I am considering buying a Sony RX 100 II. What are the advantages of camcorders?</p>

<p>If I want to sample You-Tube videos for use in the video, what are the technical issues in doing this? Can I suck this into Premiere Pro or other editing software? There are some public-domain videos that are appropriate to my subject matter and story line.</p>

Are there any primers on how to shoot and edit video?

I understand you need continuous lighting ... Just the opposite of the gear most of us have ... And you need a separate microphone ...

And then you run it through premiere pro.

If one understands photography, how does one learn video best?

<p>Many thanks for all the helpful advice. The wedding is Saturday. I'm really happy I asked for help.</p>

<p>Yup, definitely no tripod or monopod. I wasn't planning on using one, but it never occurred to me that engine vibrations could cause a problem.</p>

<p>Best piece of advice was to research weddings on the specific vessel. I found several weddings on photographers web sites. Many feature lots of off-boat scenic shots, illustrating how hard the boat could be to work with, but I also found a lot of successful on-the-boat shots.</p>

<p>Fortunately, getting ready, family photos, and the reception are not on the boat. The ceremony will be either indoors or outdoors, depending on last-minute call by the bride, who is an angel and totally a dream to work with. Outdoors will be cold, but I'm hoping for outdoors. Indoors looks like a mess. It's a small wedding -- much less than the capacity of the boat -- which really helps.</p>

<p>I'll be going with 2 cameras. On the boat it'll be a D90 + 12-24 and a D3 + 70-200. In most cases I'd rent a 2nd D3, but given I need an ultra-wide the D90 should work fine.</p>

<p>It is a multi-venue wedding between getting ready at the house, family photos on shore (various places tbd), ceremony on the boat, and the reception on shore at a restaurant. I think it'll work out well.</p>

<p>I saw one really nice photo of a ceremony on this boat that was obviously done with a fisheye. Normally, I despise cheesy fisheye shots but this one worked very nicely. I don't own a fisheye and I don't plan to rent one for just one shot. Can I use the ultra-wide, stitch a couple of shots together, and do some sort of transformation in photoshop to approximate a fisheye? If so, how many shots and how would I do it?</p>

<p>Thanks for all the help! You guys rock!</p>

<p>Allan</p>

<p>Very soon I will be photographing a wedding on a boat. I'm having the planning conversation with the bride tomorrow. I have never attended a wedding on a boat much less photographed one. This will be a first for me. I can imagine a lot of the logistics are different than photographing a wedding on land.</p>

<p>Getting ready will be on land, the ceremony will be on a yacht, and the dinner will be at a restaurant. I don't yet know where family photos will be. The yacht will be on Lake Tahoe. It will be a winter wedding, so it will be cold! I don't yet know if the wedding will be on-deck or inside the yacht. I don't yet know the size of the yacht. There are certainly some large boats in Tahoe, like the Tahoe Queen, but this is a smaller wedding, so I'm guessing the boat is smaller. I'll know more tomorrow.</p>

<p>So, I'm wondering if anyone has any experience photographing a wedding on a boat. It seems like a few things will be different from the usual garden, hotel, or church wedding. A boat venue changes the formula as the usual shot lists, sequence of events, and where you need to be at different times in the ceremony could well be different.</p>

<p>If the boat is small, I might have less working room. I might use an ultra-wide zoom more than usual. Probably 1 camera with the ultra-wide and 1 with the 70-200 instead of the usual 24-70 and 70-200. Probably can get some nice scenic shots for the album of the boat at dock with the lake and mountains in the background while people are lined up to board.</p>

<p>Light ought to be good, but with the boat moving, it could be more difficult to frame shots. I assume that any water movement won't be bad -- it's a calm lake, not the ocean -- and I don't have to change VR settings or shoot with super fast shutter speeds.</p>

<p>Any thoughts? what's different? what to look out for on a boat wedding? Yes, I'm crazy, but I already knew that.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Allan</p>

<p>Lamb Burger @ Patterson's Pub in Mendocino, CA<br>

natural light (got lucky, backlit by window) handheld (wish I had a tripod)</p><div></div>

<p>When I did my first paid wedding, it took me 2-3 weeks of 8 hour days to edit all the photos. I had no idea how much work it would be.</p>

<p>Fortunately,</p>

<ol>

<li>I had a very nice bride. She was a total angel.</li>

<li>I had no other work at the time.</li>

<li>My editing skills have improved dramatically since then. My work is much better and I am at least 4x faster than I was.</li>

</ol>

<p>Please be patient. Editing is an important part of the artistic process.</p>

<p>I recently did a portrait session for a family. The loved the work and asked what they can do to promote me. I said "tell all your friends" and based on their response, I really believe they will do this, so I made them a little gift.</p>

<p>I ordered some accordion books from my local lab <a href="http://www.bayphoto.com/photo-books/wave-accordion-books/">http://www.bayphoto.com/photo-books/wave-accordion-books/</a> and will give them to the family this weekend. They just arrived from the printer and I am really pleased with how they display my work.</p>

<p>I think the accordions will be great marketing because they are inexpensive (only $6 each) and easy to carry. They fit in purses, so the girls can show them to all their friends.</p>

<p>In my haste to get them done for this family, I put only photos on the 10 pages. No logo or even my name. Yeah, stupid of me, but I know they will show these to everyone and recommend me. I also couldn't think how to do it without compromising aesthetics.</p>

<p>I plan to do another set of accordions for another client as a gift -- photos from the engagement shoot, 1 book for every member of the wedding party (lots of bridesmaids, many possible future weddings). The wedding is in just 2 weeks, so I have to design and order them soon. This time I'm going to get it right!</p>

<p>The accordion book gives me space for 6 photos on 1 side and 4 on the other. I could put my logo or contact info/URL on each page, but the repetition would look ugly. I could burn one complete page with my logo and info. If I do so, I should probably burn another page with their names and date. That leaves me only 4 photos on 1 side and 4 on the other. I want to do square photos on one side and 2x1 panoramas on the other side, so that would be only 6 photos. The ideal solution would be if I could imprint the cover, but Bay Photo doesn't offer that. Is there another lab with a competing product that allows a cover imprint? (I really like Bay Photo.)</p>

<p>Any recommendations for how to get my info in the book but still make it beautiful?</p>

<p>I recently completed an engagement shoot and gave the bride several photos for her to post on facebook. They will build excitement for the wedding and hopefully visibility for me.</p>

<p>She just posted them, and the chatter is already starting, which is great. Both the bride and groom, their friends, and family love the photos. I'm FB friends with both the bride and the groom, so I can see.</p>

<p>She didn't mention me in the photo bylines. Should I ask her to say "photo by..."? Should I ask her to "tag" me, even though I am not in any of the photos? Or should I instead have posted them from my FB and tagged her and the groom? (That way, all my FB friends would see them, too.)</p>

<p>She is an absolutely friendly bride. I have no reason to believe she is not helping me, only that I didn't ask correctly. I'll see them tomorrow.</p>

<p>What do you recommend I ask for?</p>

<p>Thanks for all the so useful help! I had no idea I could so simply save the layers.</p>

<p>now I'll have to learn what LR6 adds to LR3.6. I presume you can still buy the s/w and don't have to rent it.</p>

I have both LR 3.6 and Photoshop CS5. I feel like I understand LR very well and PS pretty well, but I am not integrating

them well together.

For most of my images, LR 3.6 is sufficient. Sometimes, I need to use photoshop for some more complicated editing.

For example, I recently photographed a family. The best photo of the session had some yellow police tape in the

background (out-of-focus), so I removed it using clone-stamp. Getting it right was very time consuming. I then took it

back into lightroom and added a few finishing touches (sharpening, post-crop vignetting). OK, good. Unfortunately, I

cropped it before I took it into photoshop and photoshop doesn't save your layers when you go back into lightroom, so if I

need to recrop it, I have to start from scratch, including redoing the clone-stamp. Now I want to print a large canvas,

which means I need wrap. I also need to print a 5x7 and the image is cropped for 16x9 which suits the composition.

I've found myself in similar situations many times before and each time I intend to learn my way out of it.

So, I have two questions:

1. when you go from LR to PS and back, how do you save your layers in a way that is compatible with the LR catalog?

2. what things do you do in lightroom and what do you do in photoshop?

Clearly, cropping should be the last step, so that should be post photoshop, right? That means if I plan complex editing

in photoshop, I need to work on uncropped images.

Are there good books on this? I've got plenty of books on LR and PS (Kelby, Evening) individually.