kristinsson

<p>Apple aperture, they sign on the spot, I borderfx-them and print. All done while still in studio.</p>

<p>Hard to see without the image</p>

<p>You will use a seamless background/flooring for the shots most likely anyway, so I would go with laminate, that is what we use.</p>

<p>Check out the Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 DG OS (with image stabilization). You will be suprised by the quality of the shots, and for that cash...</p>

<p>I use Nissin speedlites.<br>

Both Di866s (works with the wireless ttl and basically does everything the 580exII does for half the price) and Nissin Di466s as optical slaves.<br>

I have heard Nikon users have had some issues with the ittl/wireless but for Canon it works nicely.</p>

<p>My experience with the 17-85 is that it's a good lens for what it costs and it has fairly good IQ.<br>

Compared to a high priced pro lens you might notice a difference, especially so on a good FF body, but for prints or web work and some after sharpening I seriously doubt most people could notice a difference in the end result.<br>

However, I would seriously recommend the 15-85 over the 17-85 as it's just that much better ;)</p>

<p>Contrasts makes great black and white photos. A white shirt against a black background or vice versa.<br>

Those kind of things.<br>

Don't worry so much about getting it in camera, shoot raw, and have the picture style set to B/W to get a decent preview, but do the actual B/W conversion digitally later.</p>

<p>But that isn't really just an issue with the 7D.<br>

I mean, it's not like you would get worse image quality just because it has more mpixels.<br>

The senor works a bit different and the biggest fear was that cranking up the mpixels would increase the noise but Canon pretty much succeeded in building this away with advanced electronic designed sensors and chipsets.<br>

My main issue with 18mpix is that I fill my memorycards so darn fast ;)</p>

<p>You can only do 3 exposures. But atleast on my 7D, if in Av or such, I can change the main EV and take a new AEB bracketing and it will do it after the main EV settings. So even if it means that I have to do three operations I can get a bigger number of different exposures (altough some might be overlapping depending on what you set the EV to and AEB ev to).</p>

<p>I agree with Puppy Face aswell. I use the 15-85 and it's an excellent lens. When I do low light shooting I usually switch to fast primes.</p>

<p>I always store them reversed on the lens. Haven't had any problems so far.</p>

<p>Get a TTL extension cord and use the flash not directly mounted on the camera but from different angles, and see if that can help you improve the shots (considering the yellow eye and stuff like that)</p>

<p>Not so sure about how Nikon works, but I think you should be pretty set with that equipment if you can get pretty close to the people you're photographing.<br>

Use the flash in iTTL-auto but be prepared to lower the effect and add some ambient into it (use a longer shutter speed, and maybe a smaller aperture), so you freeze the action with the flash but you get the lightning from location (if it's nice). Just enough to get the ambient but not enough to get blurry action, but set the flash to 2nd curtain anyway so it fires at the end instead of at the beginning, that way if you get any trails they won't look backward. This will work if they like pose for a second or so, but might be harder if they are constantly moving.<br>

Otherwise you could probably get pretty decent exposures using a fast sync speed (fixed) with iTTL in Av mode or so.<br>

What I would bring in case is a longer lens in case you are further away from the objects.</p>

<p>Can't see the image, but if it's underexposed and you're using a 500D in ISO800, there could be some noise. If you can get away with a bigger aperture like F5.6 and a slower shutter speed without altering what you are trying to accomplish maybe it could be captured at ISO400? That would produce far less noise.</p>

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=4247307">Alan Bryant</a> , Jan 19, 2010; 09:37 a.m.<br>

The XS is the 1000D, presumably the first camera in a new series.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Oh ok, though it's remarkably similar to the rest of the rebel lineup and still labeled as a rebel so it's easy to be confused..</p>

 

<p>Maybe a bit off topic. But if you do get it working, have a recent mac running snow leopard, open upp the app info in finder and unclick "start in 32 bit mode", see if you notice any speed differenc.</p>

<p>It all depends. Runway? Position? Camera? You probably need some decent speedy glass. A 50mm F1.4 or 30 F1.4 if near or a decent zoom if from a bit more far. Depending on camera aswell. Get a TTL flash compatible with your camera system, will probably help you get decent exposures if you're not used to flash work.</p>

<p>Some good noise removal tools can take you a long way. If you are going to use the pictures for web use or small prints alot of the noise and also some of the blur invoced by the noise removal software will be minimized by scaling them down, remember you're looking at them full size on your monitor and inspecting pixels.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=4247307">Alan Bryant</a> , Jan 18, 2010; 05:04 p.m.<br /> It's a question of how many APS-C cameras they need. In Jan 2008 they had two (the XSi and 40D). Today, two years later, they have four (the XS, T1i, 50D and 7D). They may continue with four tiers, but I wouldn't be surprised if they eliminated the 50D line. Honestly I can see it going either way.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Actually 3, but four if you count the pro series. The XS and T1i are the same series. In europe they're called 350D, 400D, 450D, 500D, etc. and are the same series just newer models.<br>

I see the need for a xxD line between the xxxD (rebel) entrylevel, 7D/5d semi pro, 1d/1ds pro</p>

 

<p>Let it dry, for a couple of days. It might start working again, if the rain was the issue. I've used a 450D (euro version of XSi) in the rain plenty of times without problems, well, not like when it's raining cats and dogs, but like in generally bad weather and some small rain.</p>

<p>I recommend looking at alternatives. The Nissin Di866 have been very stable for me. And they are as able as the 580exII for half the price.</p>

<p>The 50mm will probably not be such a good portrait lens on the 5D as on the 7D since you actually get 50mm on the 5D instead of the crop factory which effectively makes it an 80mm on the 7D.</p>

 

<p>I went from a 450D to a 7D, even though I am not sure it has improved my photography, and in normal lighting situations there isn't really that much difference in IQ, I really do like the new body and it feels inspiring to go out and shoot again. Especially with the differences in ISO performance.<br /> Thing is, with APS-C lenses, you can get sharp quality because they are easier to make sharp (since you won't see what's in the edges). To get the same performance out of a fullframe like you would get from, let's say, the canon 15-85 or 17-55 EF-S lenses you would have to put up ALOT of cash. But on the other hand, if it's really the wide angle you're after then I guess FF is your only choice.</p>

<p>About the flashes, check out the Nissin Di866. They have been working good for me, and alot of people I know - when used with canon (together with Nikon CLS there seems to be some minor issues). They can do just about everything the 580exII can, including wireless ttl, highspeed and stuff like that, and you can basically buy two of them for the price of one 580exII.</p>

<p>Well. On new lenses IS can be tripod aware aswell ;)</p>

<p>I have had trouble hearing IS on USM lenses like 17-85 and 15-85, and even on the 18-55.<br>

On longer lenses and heavier glass like the L lenses it's more audiable.</p>

 

<p>You can basically accomplish the same results with ACR as with DPP and in camera settings. Just takes some tweaking. But you can save those tweaks into profiles in ACR? (atleast in LR which uses ACR) so you don't have to redo all?</p>

<p> </p>