gk_sullivan

<p>Tried out the remote this morning and it works well through the window. The camera is on the deck zoomed in on the feeder. The window is in the background. Looking through the window I can hit the remote as the hummingbirds hover at the feeder. No birds yet, they should be here in a week or two.</p>

<p>Thanks for all your help!</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>Well, I think you guys clued me in to what I need to do. </p>

<p>It occurred to me that some sort of remote came with a Coolpix 8400 I have. I looked and, sure enough it was a ML-L3. So I will try using that. Hopefully it will be effective through window glass.</p>

<p>If it doesn't work, I found this on Ebay for about $11 "USB Cat5 Rj45 Lan Ethernet Extender Repeater Extension." Here is what the listing says:</p>

<p>

<ul>

- Extends the distance of a USB device from a USB-enable computer up to 150ft. ideal for use with USB cameras, printers, web cams, keyboard/mouse extensions and any other USB device.

</ul>

<ul>

<br />- Self-power so no external power source is required.<br />- Uses standard Cat5/Cat5E/Cat6 patch cord (not included).<br />- OS requirement:Windows 2000/XP,Mac

</ul>

<ul>

- additional details: base connectors: USB Type A Male, RJ45 Female<br />- Remote Connectors: USB Type A Female, RJ45 Female<br />- Cable:<br />- Cable Type USB<br />- Length, feet 150<br />- Connector A USB<br />

</ul>

<ul>

- Connector B USB

</ul>

 

<p > </p>

<p > </p>

<p ><strong>- This USB Extension adapter allows you to connect your USB device to your computer at a distance up to 150ft, with the help of a Cat5e/Cat6 patch cable (not included). This adapter will allow you to have your USB cameras, printers, web cams, keyboard/mouse extensions or any other USB device exactly where you want it without having to move around your computer.</strong></p>

<p ><strong><br /></strong></p>

<strong></strong><br>

<strong></strong></p>

<p>You can see the listing by searching Ebay for item number 330422193579 (will expire in about 15 days). </p>

<p>Would this work?</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>I would like to put my D40x outside on a tripod, hook the camera to my netbook and use Cam Control ( http://www.d-software.co.za/ ) to take pictures of hummingbirds when, looking through a window, I see that they are at the feeder.</p>

<p>Cam Control uses a usb cord to communicate with the camera. For my setup to work the cable needs to be about 50' long which the web says is too long for usb. </p>

<p>I found some "USB 2.0 to 10/100 Ethernet LAN Network Adapters" on Ebay for several dollars apiece. One would plug into the laptop, I could use 50' of ethernet cable to the same adapter (with the proper plug) at the camera.</p>

<p>Would that work? (Gut feel is that it is too simple to work - and this is the reason I'm posting.) Do I need to do something different? I have a netgear router that links our computers together using ethernet cables and wireless. </p>

<p>Thanks in advance for your help!</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>A little off topic but I get better results if I take multiple shots of groups at the same time. I set the camera to continuous and shoot a 1-2 second burst. You will generally get one in which no one is blinking or looking stupid.</p>

<p>G</p>

<p>I was surprised to find a very good monopod at, of all places, Radio Shack, for the pricely sum of $9.99. I bought one several years ago and seriously, it works as well as the really expensive ones.</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>It amazes me but I have never had a problem with a refurb anything, including phones a D40x and a 18 -135 Nikkor lens! +1 to what has been said here.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks, everyone for your responses. I'll do some testing and see what comes of it. The polarizer helps, I can usually just dial it in (watch for glare to decrease off of roadways and buildings) and leave it. It works best when shooting toward the ground with the sun in the background. I've not really proven to myself that the UV does much of a job cutting haze. I didn't know there was a separate haze filter -- will look into that!</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>I take aerial photos of real estate and run into several situations where I use filters.</p>

<p>When there is glare a polarizer helps significantly</p>

<p>When it is hazy a UV filter helps</p>

<p>I've never used them together... wondering if there are any negatives to using both at the same time. There is usually enough light as I take them when there is bright sunlight or on slightly cloudy days. I shoot 1/500 or faster using a D40x, Nikkor 28-125 AF-S 3.5-5.6 D ED lens.</p>

<p>May be heresy but I get excellent results (as good as DSLR) with an 8mp Coolpix 8400. It has a really sharp and colorful lens that goes to 24mm (35mm equivalent) with only a little distortion. It has P,S,A,M, auto, white balance, ISO, etc. just like the big boys. It has it's drawbacks, but it is light, compact and the 24mm lens is superb for urban photography.</p>

<p>I bought a refurb D40x from Adorama last fall, used it a lot, no problems whatsoever. </p>

 

<p>I have found that, for general photography while on a trip, a higher end p&s works the best for me, especially the 24mm to 84mm Coolpix 8400. It has most of the settings of the DSLR's (Auto,P,S A, M, scene, i-TTL) but doesn't view through the lens. Shutter lag is on the low side, the lens is sharp and it has enough megas (8mp) to allow cropping without losing detail. On the other hand, if I am going somewhere that I expect to have the time to take outstanding photos I will lug the DSLR with me.</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>I have found that, for general photography while on a trip, a higher end p&s works the best for me, especially the 24mm to 84mm Coolpix 8400. It has most of the settings of the DSLR's (Auto,P,S A, M, scene, i-TTL) but doesn't view through the lens. Shutter lag is on the low side, the lens is sharp and it has enough megas (8mp) to allow cropping without losing detail. On the other hand, if I am going somewhere that I expect to have the time to take outstanding photos I will lug the DSLR with me.</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>Hello everyone, my first post to Nikon WedNEsDAy! <br>

This was taken while in Vancouver in 2003 from a high up hotel room in West End overlooking English Bay. The sun was low just peeking over clouds on the horizon and reflecting on the water when a many masted old boat went by. While there is no info in the EXIF portion of the image, I do remember using a borrowed D70 that had a Sigma zoom lens. It was probably set on auto so who knows what the exposure and shutter speed was. I used a clamp-on tripod -- clamped to the steel rail of the balcony. </p>

<p>Anyway, hope you enjoy.....</p>

<p>Gael</p><div></div>

<p>R.... That is much better, but how you did it makes my brain hurt. I guess I need to start working in layers. I understand what they are, just don't know how to use them... yet. Gael</p>

<p>I ran across this article today. It concerns itself with compressed sensing and how a mathematical algorithm is used to clarify images in medicine and other disciplines. It mentions the method could well be used in photography, that compressed sensing could easily be used in place of other in-camera compression methods. In my mind, anyway, it could easily increase the dynamic range of the digital photos we take.</p>

<p>Any thoughts? Has anyone heard that one camera company or another is considering this?</p>

<p><a href="http://www.wired.com/magazine/2010/02/ff_algorithm">http://www.wired.com/magazine/2010/02/ff_algorithm</a></p>

<p>Gael</p>

<hr>

See previous post today citing same URL: http://www.photo.net/casual-conversations-forum/00VtBC?unified_p=1

<p>Thanks, downloaded the Adobe document and will read it!</p>

<p>I need to create a website and all I need is a main page for text and a window that rolls through about 10 photos. I need a service that will provide an easy interface to create this as I do not want to learn HTML. Someone mentioned GoDaddy and I understand their service but are there others that would be better or that I should consider?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for any ideas!</p>

<p>Thanks, everyone for your responses. They are appreciated! </p>

<p>All of this tells me that I need to learn a bunch more about all of this. I don't know what you guys mean by color space. Any good tutorials that might help me?</p>

<p>Kevin, I shoot jpeg, mainly because my version of Photoshop, CS, doesn't import NEF files and I am not sure what I would do if I could import them. I've never had a client or graphic artist ask for them so I've just stuck to jpeg without much compression.</p>

<p>Charles, I do shoot out of an open window and I can figure out how to set a custom white balance in the D40x. I just grabbed my camera and it looks like I can create presets using a gray card or a photo. I need to read the manual to see what "Photo" means. If I set the white balance in the plane do I put the gray card out of the window? Do outside before I take off? In the sun? in the shade?</p>

<p>I'll use the UV filter. I may try the polarizer as it will cut down on reflections and should increase contrast.</p>

<p>Again, thanks for your help and answers to the questions above.</p>

<p>I take aerial photos with a D40x and an 18-135mm zoom. I use shutter priority set to 1/500 to 1/1,000, in camera sharpening, everything else default settings. Results are usually at F8 to F11 which is a good sharp aperture for this lens.</p>

<p>The photos I take often have a blue cast to them, due somewhat to the time of the year (winter) and some haze. I have not been using a polarizer but maybe need to do. I have been removing the blue cast in post processing using Nikon Edit. I use this software because it will sharpen and color correct quickly and provides very good results. I have photoshop CS but it takes a long time to process pictues and I get no better results. I have an excellent Samsung monitor with a small dot pitch. </p>

<p>After removing the blue cast using Nikon Edit all looks wonderful; sharp, crisp photos with no blue cast. However, when I view the pictures in any other program with the same monitor they still have a blue cast. My clients have no real way of viewing these except in the programs that are supplied on their PC. Their web designers, analysts and graphic designers will use the pics. The analysts will put them in Word using no further modifications but the others may do their own post processing. Attached is a sample of what I end up with. </p>

<p>Question: Should I post process so that things look great in other programs or just realize that Nikon Edit probably got it right? Am I being too critical, that most people will not notice the difference?</p>

<p>Any advice?</p><div></div>

<p>Several challenges here..... I once tried to get a second belt to work but had a bunch of problems. If I put it over the pack belt it would not fit over the back of my pack. If I put it under the pack belt it needed to hang down below the belt in the front and the bag would rub on my legs. So, I gave up and simply hung it around my neck. If you really want to do this you might consider finding a small pack (that doesn't hang down too far) that has a back loop through which you could put the pack belt, maybe one on each side. Ideas, if your pack is like mine, there are some plastic loops on the front straps which might help in some way. You might cut the second belt up and have someone sew it to the pack belt. If I recall, Nikon makes a holster type case that might have a back loop. I saw one on Ebay last year. Good luck, it would sure be nice to have the equipment handy while hiking! </p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>Several challenges here..... I once tried to get a second belt to work but had a bunch of problems. If I put it over the pack belt it would not fit over the back of my pack. If I put it under the pack belt it needed to hang down below the belt in the front and the bag would rub on my legs. So, I gave up and simply hung it around my neck. If you really want to do this you might consider finding a small pack (that doesn't hang down too far) that has a back loop through which you could put the pack belt, maybe one on each side. Ideas, if your pack is like mine, there are some plastic loops on the front straps which might help in some way. You might cut the second belt up and have someone sew it to the pack belt. If I recall, Nikon makes a holster type case that might have a back loop. I saw one on Ebay last year. Good luck, it would sure be nice to have the equipment handy while hiking! </p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>Gut feel, in 5-10 years all DSLR's are likely to be full frame.</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>Jason, I'm interested in seeing a photo or two to see how the SB-400 performed</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>Thanks to all who responded several weeks ago. I'm the guy who needs to take pics in warehouses. Your responses made me realize that I simply can't throw enough photons into a large space like that with only a hot shoe flash.</p>

<p>With that in mind I still need a good flash. I've reduced my search to three flashes and need your opinion. I shoot with a D40x which will do i-ttl. In my job I routinely take pictures of commercial real estate, most of which are exteriors and apartment, retail and office interiors - some of which are large spaces. For example, a vacant retail bay is about 60' deep. Most pictures are taken at DX 18mm to get the widest angle. But I would also like to take better flash pictures of friends and family.</p>

<p>I have narrowed the search to the SB-600 but also the Sunpak PX42x and the Sigma EF530dg (not the super). The Sunpak and Sigma are a little more powerful than the Nikon and will zoom to 105mm versus the Nikon's 85mm. Does this make any difference? Is a zoom to 85mm sufficient? Any other differences that are compelling? Anyone use these Sunpak or Sigma flashes? Any better alternatives in the $150 price range (or less)? I don't mind spending the $50 extra for the SB-600 but really can't afford the SB-800 or 900. </p>

<p>Again, thanks in advance for your help!</p>

<p>Gael</p>

<p>Suzanne, +1 to the comments from the others, especially no sound. One comment: My initial impression of the site was that the background color seemed odd. We have graphic artists on our floor at work and as one walked by I asked what she thought. She said mid green is currently considered to be an informal color and would not trigger feelings of confidence and professionalism. She also mentioned that, when looking at the page, the current color draws the eye away from what is really important, your photography. She suggested you use a much, much darker green. She also mentioned that you might choose a color that is supportive of the pictures that will be in the center frame, i.e., if your pictures are warm and inviting that a very dark warm color would be best, if many landscapes then a very dark green or blue, etc.</p>

<p>Good luck! Gael</p>