sam_lozano

<p>If I were you I would NOT use 105mm as the dialed-in focal length. I would use the 70mm or 86mm focal length. The focal length is put into the EXIF tag, so if you have a 105mm 2.5 lens (and you really owe it to yourself to have one) then it becomes harder to sort and find images later on. </p>

<p>I read this far: "I have partially disassembled it..." before shuddering...</p>

<p>You could sell the F100 for between 150-300 depending on the condition. To me, that's worth the bother.</p>

<p>i'm too busy at work to look it up, but I seem to remember that the non-D lenses had a problem with sticky aperture blades, similar to issues with the 35 f2.</p>

<p>That was the case. I made sure I was on frame 4-5 just in case the meter acted funky before frame 1. Just in case, I also swapped out new batteries and tried cleaning the finder head in case something was screwed up at the contact points. I ended up shipping back to KEH, the replacement ships today. Thanks for the help.</p>

<p>A question for you old film junkies:<br /> When I have my F3HP in manual mode (shutter dial set to something other than A), the shutter speed displayed in the LCD fluctuates as if the shutter dial was actually set to A (auto mode). The LCD never shows the shutter speed that it's actually set to, unless it's at A, X, 1/8s or slower. At any of the speeds just mentioned, I can see the small "M" and +- indicators. This sounds to me like a faulty shutter dial, but I've never shot with an F3 so I have no idea if this is normal or not. If I'm in manual mode, should I see the set shutter speed in the LCD or is this just for Auto mode?<br /> <br /> I'm wondering if I've got a bad F3 (I just bought it from KEH) or if there some other dial/setting that I'm missing. <br /></p>

<blockquote>

<p>Shall we test it and post results?</p>

</blockquote>

<p><br>

Yes we shall. I'll send over my home address right away. Seriously though, good for you. I'm really wanting this lens to live up to the hype. I'll probably get one next year when used prices settle down a bit.</p>

<p>I would not. The lens sounds too slow for most wedding shots (unless you're outdoors) and does not provide you with a focal length not covered by your other lenses. I would pocket the $235 and save up for a fast telephoto zoom (the sigma/tamron 70-200 have enjoyed a decent reputation if the canon version is out of your price range).</p>

<p>I appreciate the help, thanks guys</p>

<p>interesting, I just called Nikon APS today (located in the chicago area) - I just bought an F5 with the same issue. They quoted me at $175 to replace all of the rubber grip, this price includes a complete CLA. I may do this in the future, for now I'm just going to live with the loose grip.</p>

<p>I'm worried about the battery drain issue. If my copy does have it, there's no way I could tell within KEH's 14 day return window. Will KEH take it back after 14 days if it was defective?</p>

Shun, what issue is that?

<p>I just purchased a really beat up F5 from KEH, serial number is #301XXXX. A quick search of the internet brought up the Photography In Malaysia chart, the earliest serial number is :<br>

3033XXX LATE 1996<br>

I'm wondering - is my F5 an extremely extremely early version? Or another option - does anyone know if non-USA models used a different serial numbering scheme? I'm just trying to figure out how much life is left in this old girl - the grip is coming off and is pretty sticky. Functionally it seems fine, I just don't know if it's going to die after 3-4 rolls. Thanks in advance.<br>

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/NikonF5/background/index1.htm - link to malaysian site</p>

<p>I wouldn't worry too much about repair on the lens. I was at the Nikon APS (authorized nikon service facility) here in Chicago and saw a ton of old F2's, F3's, old AI lenses, all kinds of stuff that Nikon probably doesn't "officially" support. But they still take them and they can still fix them. I'm sure they've got plenty of old parts for a 20-35.<br>

BTW, I really enjoy my 20-35mm. I paid $500 for it and got rid of my 18-35mm. <br>

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3336/4613633425_3c3e131ff5.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="333" /></p>

I have read mostly poor reviews of the 28 AF-D, so much so that I ended up getting a the 2.8 AIS version for about $200. This is one of the better MF lenses out there and has performed really well for me. since you're on a D90 you won't meter with the AIS, so you're probably better off sticking with the kit lens for now. alternatively, you could probably sell the 28 AF and get a 24 2.8 AF for roughly the same price.

My main gripe with the zeikos grip is the build quality of the AF selection point doodad (I'm using the technical term for it). It feels really flimsy and mine will sometimes get stuck in the up position, which I think actually drains the battery.

I second the last post. I love the image quality coming out of the lens, it's almost like having 3 primes in one lens. But it's a big lens and doesn't particularly handle well. I feel like the zoom ring is located too close to the lens mount. On a big lens this means your two hands are forming a less stable base and that leads to more hand fatigue. but that's just my opinion, others may have had a different experience.

<p>I don't have the D90, but I do have the N90s (or F90x as our European friends call it). What a great old camera. </p>

<p>The SB600 works beautifully on my F100, I've never had any problems with it. One limitation I know of is that you lose FP sync by using an SB600. You can get an SB25/26 for around $100 if you really need high speed sync and you'll have an extra slave too.</p>

<p>This one is tough. I'd recommend getting a used D200 and trying it for a couple of weeks (KEH has a great return policy). The ability to meter with AI/AIS lenses was huge for me, coming from film I have a bunch of old MF glass. However, the poor battery life and relatively poor low-light performance of the D200 eventually persuaded me to splurge and get the D700. That's me though, only you can really make the final call based on your needs.<br>

If 700 is out of your price range the D300 or D300s are great great cameras. I will add that using MF lenses on the D700 is an absolute joy and I've never regretted getting it.</p>

<p>I would go with the 70-150 E as well. It's sharp at all focal lengths, light and small-ish (for a manual focus zoom).</p>

<p>I actually liked the FG quite a bit. I'm kicking myself that I sold it on ebay about a year ago. It's very light, compact and program mode is there if you just want to focus and shoot. it was pretty dependable for me, about the only drawback for me was no DOF preview. I took the FG and a bag full of Ektar to Costa Rica through the beaches and rain forests and it came out just fine. Every so often I'll look on ebay to see if I can get one for the same price I originally paid ($30). </p>

<p>+1 on interslice. He's very reliable and has sold thousands of the pre-cut kits on ebay. I've bought the kits for my FM & FM2n and they worked flawlessly.</p>

<p>D700, SB-400, 85mm 1.8D....<br>

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2765/4243967448_0148818271_b.jpg" alt="" width="681" height="1024" /></p>

<p>First big snowstorm of the year here in Chicago, I thought I'd capture it.<br>

Nikon D700 @ ISO 200<br>

Nikkor 200mm f/4 AI<br>

Speedlight SB-25, manual @1/16<br>

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2595/4170499952_9c0700ba01_d.jpg" alt="" /></p>