richard_saylor

Sekonic L308B

If it doesn't work right, they'll fix it for free or send you a replacement.

Why should one emasculate a nice color photo?

Whiteout can happen with the M6, but it need not be a problem unless you are in a great hurry. In my experience, rotating the camera about the lens axis, or (in extreme cases) putting a finger over the framelines illumination window, eliminates the flare.

"Yes, a 28mm lens will always be a 28mm lens, but it will shoot like a 37.24mm lens with a 1.33x sensor and like a 42mm lens with a 1.5x sensor."

 

Yes, the effective field of view will be affected in that way, but how about the DoF?

".....A 1.33x-factor sensor would produce mostly weird, nonstandard focal lengths....."

 

The crop factor of the sensor doesn't affect the focal length of a lens. In fact, the size of the sensor has absolutely no effect on the lens. A 28mm lens is a 28mm lens whether it is on a 35mm camera or a digital camera with a 1.5x crop factor.

The Minilux (40mm/1.4) has true prefocus. When the shutter button is depressed halfway, the lens moves into position for the shot, and there is no perceptible shutter lag. I never used fill flash, so I don't know how well that works.

Mine was fixed once, during warranty. Since then it has worked perfectly.

My favorite is the 50mm f/2.8 Elmar-M. I have the latest 50mm Summicron, but I enjoy more the crisp, contrasty images from the Elmar.

"I have a mint LTM Summaron 3.5 and very much doubt it's less sharp than the Skopar. It's certainly better-built. Unfortunately it's slow, doesn't accept screw-in shade (needs a shade), and f-stop ring is a hassle if your eyes are middle-aged."

 

I made a shade for mine by gluing an A36 filter ring to a modified 39mm B+W rubber shade.

XP2 works fine with colored filters. It's just that the filters have a somewhat more pronounced effect with XP2 than with conventional black and white films, so choose filters conservatively. E.g., if you think you need an orange, use a yellow instead.

It would be great to have an M-mount 40mm Summarit similar to the one on the Minilux. I would buy one in a heartbeat.

I don't doubt that the Nokton may be "better" than the 40mm Cron (at least as regards resolution), but it's a "better" which doesn't necessarily contribute to better photographs, which is what it's all about. The 35mm Cron ASPH is another example of a "better" which ain't necessarily better.

 

The VC craze is incredible. Even I have one, a 28mm/1.9 Ultron. It certainly gets the job done.

I "know" that the VC lenses are virtually perfect and almost always beat Leica and Zeiss (and all other) glass into oblivion! :) However, I'm a stupid, obstinate cuss and prefer the grossly inferior 40mm Summicron-C anyhow, and particularly the equivalent 40mm M-Rokkor CLE version (which is multicoated and takes the more convenient 40.5mm filters and hoods).

 

Richard

What is an aspherical "look?"

 

Richard

I agree with a previous poster that the 40mm Summicron/Rokkor is the next best thing to a 35mm Summicron, unless you can make do with the f/2.8 aperture of the Summaron.

I'm just wondering what digitized photos on the web could possibly prove concerning those lenses.

 

Richard

I shot Kodachrome in a Minilux (40mm) and a Yashica T4 Super (T5). No exposure problems with either camera.

 

Richard

Assuming my scale is not too far off: Summaron w/eyes - 242g, 40mm Rokkor - 108g

FWIW here are my opinions as a user of both those lenses on an M3. (I refrain from giving an evaluation of any lens unless I have personally shot several rolls with it.)

 

If you want to use filters, get the 40mm M-Rokkor which has standard 40.5mm filter threads. It is identical optically to the 40mm Summicron-C.

 

However, if you prefer 35mm, there's no reason not to get the Summaron. I have found no practical differences in image quality between the 40mm Rokkor/Summicron and the 35mm/2.8 Summaron w/eyes, both of which I use on the M3. As someone mentioned, it is easier to frame using the Summaron. (I just use the entire viewfinder for the Rokkor rather than getting a 40mm finder. Not perfect, but it's okay.)

Whether or not the original socket was 3/8", a standard 3/8" to 1/4" bushing works fine on my M3.

I don't think I've ever been able to see a "Leica glow." This shot has some kind of glow, but I think it is simply sunlight (although quite glorious) from the window. http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/137160-md.jpg

The only (as of last year) 43mm filter B+W makes has 0.75mm pitch. http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/ads_&_brochures/pdf/buw_programm_e.xls

The M3 finder is a dream, but don't overlook the splendid M2: built as well as the M3; uncluttered, flare resistant finder; and it has the all-important 35mm framelines!

 

BTW, the flare problem with the M6 is not as bad as it is often made out to be. If it does happen, just rotate the camera about the lens axis a bit or stick a finger in front of the framelines illumination window. It's only a major problem if it happens when you are in a hurry.

This is a shot taken with the skinny T-E at minimum focus distance (around 1m) and wide open (f/2.8).<div></div>