tzvih

<p>Hi all.<br>

A prospective client is asking me to quote the following job-<br>

Basic, clean, white "ebay" style photos of about 400 simple products (nothing complicated like glass or jewelry). Do I price it per image, per hour etc. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>I'm not sure about the color space, I will double check. I use internet explorer. I should mention that the photos don't have that over-saturated look when exported to Zenfolio.</p>

<p>I've noticed that the colors of my photos look more saturated when uploading and viewing my photos in Snapfish. They look fine when viewing them in Lightroom. This is all on the same monitor. Does this make sense?</p>

<p>Matt-<br>

I'm talking about a few hundred pieces of costume jewelry. Nothing too sophisticated, just clean, white and correctly lit/exposed.</p>

<p>I was referring to the latter, just wasn't sure what the protocol is. Thank you</p>

<p>When photographing jewelry/watches are tags just angled out of the frame or are they usually removed? There are times where I can get away with keeping any tags out of the frame but there are times you just need the entire subject in the frame.</p>

<p>Thank you all for the helpful advice.</p>

<p>Charles- from what I read about the Spyder software, only the Pro versions let you adjust gamma and color temperature not the Express version.</p>

<p>I set out on a journey to do some research on the best way to calibrate my HP 2009f LCD monitor. I was looking at the Spyder express which at first glance seemed like a good start. Then I hear that you cannot set the color temperature and gamma (not that I have in depth understanding of gamma) and that might render it pointless for LCD monitors.<br>

Another area of question for me was- what good does it do if my monitor is displaying color correctly but the printer (MPIX for example) uses different settings?<br>

Is there any site that can sort of walk a beginner through the process without using too much technical language?</p>

<p>Les-<br>

Big eyes happen to be something I always liked but I see your point.</p>

<p>Regarding the jewelry shots, I understand a lot of people like the low-contrast all-white light tent look, I was just going for something different. (maybe a bit unsuccessfully).</p>

<p>Thanks for the feedback.</p>

<p>Primarily potential clients.</p>

<p>What did you think of the photos in general?</p>

<p>I am in the process of putting together a Zenfolio site. I removed all Zenfolio branding but anyone familiar with Zenfolio will recognize it anyway. Does this automatically say "amateur"?<br /> Here is the site- www.--------------.net. The Galleries have not been organized yet per se. My request for criticism is primarily on the layout and the photos themselves.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<hr>

<i>Moderator note: Double-posted. Also, per photo.net <A HREF="http://www.photo.net/info/guidelines/">community guidelines</A>:</i><p>

<blockquote>Don't post gratuitous requests in the forums for people to visit your gallery (either here on photo.net or on some other website). Everyone would like more visitors, but we don't want the forums clogged up with such requests.</blockquote>

<i>Critique requests should go through the <A HREF="http://www.photo.net/photo-critique-forum/">critique forum</A>, not the discussion forums. The discussion forums can accommodate a limited number of requests to view photos for the purpose of solving specific technical problems, but not critiques.<br></i>

<p>I am in the process of putting together a Zenfolio site. I removed all Zenfolio branding but anyone familiar with Zenfolio will recognize it anyway. Does this automatically say "amateur"?<br>

Here is the site- www.tzvihphotography.net. The Galleries have not been organized yet per se. My request for criticism is primarily on the layout and the photos themselves.</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>Ok so it's extremely clear that I need to buy monitor calibration software. I have the Hp 6214y tower and the HP 2009f monitor. Is there monitor-specific software I should be looking for or will something like Spyder3 Pro work no matter what?</p>

<p>Would the other tool that you speak of involve purchasing additional software or is there a plug-in I can use?</p>

<p>Is there any way to combine 2 images in Lightroom and have them side by side with a border to form one photo?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I found the full version of Lightroom 2 for only $163 (no tax & free shipping) and I just purchased it. I'm hoping Adobe will let me upgrade if the newer version comes out relatively soon.</p>

<p>Thank you all for your help.</p>

<p>Charles-</p>

<p>What about images that were edited and not exported out of Lightroom, are those saved as well?</p>

<p>Thank you</p>

<p>My free trial is almost over and I want to purchase the full version. If my trial expires before I get the full version, will I lose all the images I uploaded to the trial version?</p>

<p>An HP technician told me recently that Windows 7 automatically calibrates my monitor every time the computer starts up and there is no need for additional calibration software like Spyder or Color Munki. Is this an accurate statement?</p>

<p>I am doing some shooting for a local youth baseball league. My thought process is to spend a Sunday or two shooting, post the pics on Zenfolio and offer them to the parents for purchase. Once that (hopefully) takes off, I will then shoot mostly by prior reservation only so I don't waste my time shooting kids whose parents will not buy anyway.<br>

In my local market there is no else that does this, so I am unsure how to price this. I do know that the local Picture People studio charges $20 for a printed 8x10. What am doing is a bit different ( a bit more work imo) not to mention that my printing cost will be higher. Do I just offer hi-res images on a CD?<br>

Any advice would be much appreciated.</p>

<p>Charles-<br>

Yes I recall that thread fondly. It helped me realize how little I knew about the pro "jargon" specifically regarding grip gear. <br>

Either way, it's still a bit unclear to me if there is a simple way to connect the flag to the light source (in laymans terms). Just looking at Matt's setup was enough to make my head swim. I am hoping to create a much simpler version of that setup- at least for now.</p>

<p>Matt-<br>

That was very informative, thank you.<br>

Regarding what I am shooting, you are correct. It's mostly tabletop jewelry. I'm trying to control the light spilling on to the backround. I want to keep the background deep black and I'm having a hard time with all the light spilling. I realized the hard way that black paper usually comes up gray. It seems other people have had more success with black velvet. I've tried black acrylic but it takes a lot of effort to keep the dust off. Does velvet attract dust as easily?</p>

<p>I want to use flags to control the light spill from my strobes on to my background. That being said, I have no idea how to attach the flag to the light stand.<br>

On a different note, what effect does a grid/honeycomb flag have?</p>

<p>Edward-<br>

The pic I posted was actually not taken in a light tent, specifically to avoid that flat lifeless look. Apparently I did not succeed.</p>