calixto_garcia

<p>Another update:<br>

I've tested the 6500K energy saving buls and the result is not very nice. The colours are not very natural. I'm returning it...</p>

<p>I update myself:<br>

After some days of using the Rosco Cinegel CTB filters in direct contact with the front glass of the lamp, the color has faded out...<br>

The filters that were put 1cm away from the glass are OK, but I guess they will fade sooner or later.<br>

I think it's a better option to choose the dichroic filters ( http://www.rosco.com/us/video/cinedichro.cfm ) which are specifically designed for this.<br>

Becaus of the light loss that CTB causes, I'm going to try out the 75w bulbs. I'll keep ane eye on them because I'm not sure if the generated heat could be excessive...</p>

<p>Well, I've also thought about using a desk lamp and bounce it into the gray painted wall, but I suppose it will be the second best option.<br>

I've been testing the 1/2 CTB cinegel filters and they give a good result. I was a little bit afraid about the temperature resistance but I've had no problem ( always keeping them away from direct contact with the bulb ). I still have no idea about haw they will be after some weeks or months of use.<br>

By the way: I've found some new energy saving bulbs that fit into GU10 base ( something like this: <a href="http://spanish.alibaba.com/product-gs/gu10-energy-saving-lamps-213717903.html">http://spanish.alibaba.com/product-gs/gu10-energy-saving-lamps-213717903.html</a><br />. They offer 4000K and 6500K versions, but I have no reference about CRI and I'm not sure if it will give some spectrum peaks or green dominances like standar fluorescent tubes. ¿ Have any of you ever tried them ?</p>

<p>Thanks for your answers, but...<br>

You're talking about 12v. halogen bulbs ( GU 5.3 base: two thin legs ). I have not enough room in the ceiling to put the 230v->12v transformer, so I can't use any of these bulbs, only 230v ( GU10 base, twist and lock style ) bulbs.<br>

I've benn looking for "daylight" 230v bulbs without succes, and LED 230v bulbs are way too bluish ( real 8000 K ).<br>

Does anyone have any experience putting CTB filters over standard darkroom halogen bulbs ?<br>

Thank you...</p>

<p>Hello:<br>

The ceiling structure in my digital darkroom only allows me to use 230v. halogen GU10 bulbs.<br>

The colour temperature I get is around 2700K, that's way too orange for retouching.<br>

I've made some temporary tests puting a Rosco Cinegel CTB filter over the halogen bulb and I raise colour temperature to around 4000K.<br>

I've seen at Rosco website some dichroic crystal filters called Cinedichro ( http://www.rosco.com/us/video/cinedichro.cfm ) that are offered in CTB, 1/2 CTB, etc. that I could use as a permanent filter.<br>

Would it be OK to have a better colour viewing ?<br>

Thanks.<br>

Calixto<br>

Spain.</p>

<p>Hi Patrick:<br>

You're right. As my laptop screen is now broken I was mirroring screens and, although I was setting 1920x1200 pixels as NEC screen resolution, the OS was automatically using the 1440x900 native resolution of the MBP on both screens.<br>

Afrter setting the extended monitor option, the NEC screen is working at real 1920x1200 and is much sharper, similar to the MBP screen.<br>

Tnak you... ;)</p>

<p>I answer myself...<br>

If you use extended desktop you can set resolution AND rotation freely to your external monitor. It doesn't srech image and it fills completely the external monitor.<br>

If you clone the MBP screen to the external monitor you can't do it ( because screen rotation is disabled on mBP screen ).</p>

<p>Hello:<br>

I've just bought the NEC PA241W and I have one doubt:<br>

- My 15" Macbook Pro has 1440x900 pixels on a 15" screen: that means 112 pixels per inch.<br>

- The NEC PA241W has 1920x1200 pixels on a 24" screen: that means 94 pixels per inch.<br>

If the 24" NEC would have the same pixel density than the MBP, it would need to have 2286x1428 pixels.<br>

The same photo obviously seems more sharp on the Macbook Pro because of the higher pixel density and the photos I adjusted on the MBP screen for printing now seem a bit lack of sharpness on the NEC.<br>

Will I have to train my eye again to get the new sharpness amount to get the same results on the NEC screen ?</p>

<p>I have the same issue with a Macbook Pro and a NEC PA241W.<br>

The monitor has an auto rotation setting but what it does is just stretching - deforming - the image.<br>

If wou flip the image with the Macbook Pro screen settings, it flips it and keeps the ratio but i just covers a part of the screen.<br>

It's all about the computer video card. I've just flipped my office monitor and changed the rotation settings on a Intel graphics driver ( Lenovo PC ) and it works OK and covers all the screen.</p>

<p>Thanks...<br>

I see there are big price differences ( 1500 vs. 700 € ) in NEC between Spectraview and non-Spectraview versions.<br>

I already have a Spyder 3 colorimeter so I could make software calibration. Is hardware calibration really important ? If I use the monitor with just one computer, is there any difference ? Is spectraview extra quality control really necessary ?<br>

I see that I can buy the spectraview software in NEC web for 99 $ ( <a href="http://www.necdisplay.com/SupportCenter/Monitors/spectraview2/">link</a> ) so I could use my colorimeter to make hardware calibration. Is that possible ?</p>

<p>Hello:<br>

My wife has just had an accident with my <strong>15" Macbook Pro LED matte 1440 x 900 display</strong> and it's broken. Of course, I still love her... ;)<br>

I can <strong>replace it</strong> ( it's a bit difficlut, chech <a href="http://www.ifixit.com">www.ifixit.com</a> ) and it would cost around 300-700 $ ( price of LCD or all display assembly - easier to install ).<br>

It was calibrated and the results were excelent in my opinion. I weren't able to find any differences between paper copies ( printed on a pro lab that provides their printing ICC profile ) and the screen.<br>

That's why I doubt if it's really necessary for serious photo retouching to upgrade to an <strong>Eizo CG222</strong> ( 900 $ ), <strong>CG241</strong> ( 1400 $ ) or similar screen.<br>

The third option would be to <strong>replace</strong> the screen <strong>and buy</strong> the external screen to keep maximize image size without tools obstructing view. Is it really necessary with those 22" or 24" screens ?<br>

I just use it for photography: no pre-press, no company logo color matching, etc.<br>

Has anyone tried both displays and can give me an advice ?<br>

Thank you...<br>

Calixto<br>

Spain.</p>

<p>Thank you for yor answers...<br>

I am at the lower end right now, but I'll think about your categories sugerence ;)<br>

<strong>Image scroll or click to view:</strong><br>

It's easy to show next image by clicking on current image so you just see one by one. I think you're right about the fact that one image distarcts from the other, but I doubt if someone will really see all the 20 images of a category if he has to click 20 times ( even with fast loading times ), with scrolling system it's easier to see all of them.<br>

Should I keep just the categories with possible comercial interest ( fashion, babies, sports, products ) and put some of hte "non comercial interest" work under the "De autor" ( personal work ) category? How many categories do you find reasonable ? It's clear that if I put 8 categories the custumer will think about me as a "learning everything, mastering nothing".<br>

<strong>Changing background:</strong><br>

About the channging background in the main page: it's 6-7 images showing 3 seconds each. I wanted to show a brief general view of what's inside the web without any effort. I wanted to insert a subtile fade out-fade in effect to make it more elegant. I'm a bit surprised that it causes confusion in the user.<br>

It's also easy to keep the background fixed but with a different image each time you visit the web. Do you find it also a bit confussing ?</p>

<p>My website is horizontal scrolling, so I limit the vertical size of the pictures.<br>

Assuming tha 1024x768 is the minimum resolution nowadays ( if it's 800x600, then it's proobably not a potential customer ) I set my images:<br>

- Main page: 970 x 580 ( max size with just the photo ).<br>

- Galleries: unlimited x 480 ( max size keeping room for two buttons down ).<br>

I hope it helps...</p>

<p>Hello:<br>

I've been using <a href="http://www.aruba.it">www.aruba.it</a> ( Italy ) for 6 years now. I have 2 webs and I have never had any problem at all.<br>

It's just 30 €/year. For me it's perfect.</p>

<p>Hello to everyone:<br>

I'm Calixto, from Spain. I'm an amateur who's beggining to make some payed works ( through a legally establiseh photographer that is my friend ).<br>

<strong>Web design:</strong><br>

My website is www.calixtogarcia.es I've tried to keep it:<br>

- Simple and concise. The focus should be the photographs, not the web design.<br>

- Fast charging. I hate those flash websites where you need to wait 3 seconds for each photo.<br>

- Elegant. Or, at least, I tried to... ;)<br>

It's all HTML and JavaScript. I just want to add two buttons on each gallery to jump to the next image without having to use the scroll bar ( any suggestions are welcome... ).<br>

<strong>Images:</strong><br>

It would be also very usefull to recieve some feedback about the images themselves. All of them are amateur ( some of my very beggining with digital SLRs ) but I've been working hard and studying a lot to improve my technique in the last years. I'm beginning to make TFCD shoots with local model aspirants, rock bands, etc.<br>

- Moda ( fashion ): I live in Bilbao, a 300.00 people city 200 miles away from Madrid. Is it too little to spend efforts on this ?<br>

- Niños ( kids ): I like it very much and I think it could be profitable.<br>

- Deportes ( sports ): I practice various extreme sports, maybe some young fashion brands could be a good target.<br>

I guess that without the time limitations of a full-day office job I could shot and experiment a lot more to improve.<br>

Thank you:<br>

<br />Calixto</p>

<p>Thank you very much. It's been very instructive to talk with you.<br>

Calixto</p>

<p>Hello Paul:<br>

I readed and apreciated your answer about wafer softboxes.<br>

Now I'm doing 7 questions and just one of them was related to this. Anyway, I found that it was interesting to include it to show my complete idea. I think it's right to ask when you're not an expert in an area.<br>

I insist: I appreciate and keep in mind your opinion but I don't understand the agresive tone of your answer.<br>

Calixto</p>

<p>Hello:<br>

I'm Calixto, from Spain. I sold my Elinchrom D-Lite 4 flash kit to upgrade to a battery pro-level flash kit.<br>

As British pound is low against Euro and there is no custom fees, Bowens UK is the brand that I find more atrractive price/quality ratio.<br>

I'm going to use it for semi-pro fashion and portraits in studio and on location and also for downhill sports ( obviously, on location ). Light quality, portability and ease of mounting is important for me.<br>

This is my preliminar buy list, I would thank any advice or suggestion about it:</p>

<p><em>- Flash Kit:</em> Bowens Explorer 1500 battery powered, 1500 w/s 2 asymetrical channels with 2 heads. Expandable in the future, if needed, with two 750 w/s Bowens Gemini monoblocks powered by the same battery. <a href="http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1486&PT_ID=399">http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1486&PT_ID=399</a><br>

<em>- Softboxes:</em> Bowens 140x100 cm ( 55"x40" ) + 100x80 ( 40"x31"). <a href="http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1494&PT_ID=401">http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1494&PT_ID=401</a> . In Spain I can buy similar size softboxes and a 150cm. ( 60" ) octa of korean brand SP for half the price. <strong>Should I make the effort for Bowens or even Wafers or is OK with koreans ? </strong> I also have a big lastolite reflector <strong>Could I just buy one big softbox or having 2 is a big difference ?</strong><br>

<em>- Reflectors:</em> <a href="http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1492&PT_ID=401">http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1492&PT_ID=401</a> . Maxilite 65º reflector + 1/4" honeycomb ( shoul I also buy 3/8" ? ) + softlite / beauty dish reflector ( <strong>should I buy the beauty dish difusser ?</strong> )<br>

<em>- Stands:</em> <a href="http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1501&PT_ID=401">http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1501&PT_ID=401</a> 2 Portable stands 100-355 cm. <strong>Should I make an effort and buy a boom ? </strong><br>

<em>- Others:</em> I've seen many interference problems with pulsar triggers. <strong>Can I live with PC sync cable or wireless is a must in real life photography ?</strong><br>

I have a Canon 580 EXII hot shoe flash. <strong>Is it useful for accent detail light, whitening backgrounds, etc. or is just too low powered to use it toghether with studio flashes ?<br /> </strong><br>

<strong>Am I forgetting something important ?</strong></p>

<p><strong>Thank you very much for your comments...</strong><br>

<br /> Calixto<br>

Spain<strong><br /> </strong></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello everyone:<br>

I'm Calixto, from Spain, and I'm about to buy a Bowens Explorer 1500 battery flash pack to use it in portrait/fashion/sports both in studio and on location.<br>

I'm chosing the light modifiers and i'm thinking about a couple of 200x140 cm ( 76"x53" ) and 140x100 cm ( 53"x40" ) softboxes.<br>

- Do you think that these sizes are OK for general use or maybe a little bit too big ?<br>

- Is it worth to spend the extra money for a wafer style softbox ?<br>

- Are bowens wafers and Plume wafers equal ? I see that Bowens is Plume's distributor, but I'm not sure.<br>

I also find interesting the fashion lightning reflector kit ( http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=1493&PT_ID=401 ). I'm not sure if all of the components are usefull in real shooting...<br>

- Any suggestions about these modifiers ( beauty dish, reflectors, etc. ) ?<br>

Thank you very much.</p>