mark_vail2

<p>thank you so much. i am mostly a 35mm person and have not used the hassy in long enough a period to have forgotten about the dof tab. again, many thanks.</p>

<p>Quick question. If I turn the aperture ring on my 150 I see the blades close and the view finder dim whether I take a picture or not.<br /> But on the 80 I only see the aperture close (which it does and to the correct f stop setting) when I actually trigger the shutter.<br /> Any reason for this? Many thanks in advance for the help.<br>

(Oh, and I just noticed this after pulling the 80 out of a year or so retirement, cannot remember if it was like this before, and would like to get feedback before shooting a roll).</p>

<p>i will take 5 dollars.</p>

<p>Greetings,<br>

I have a like new (used two shoots for a total of 30 shots maximum) 35mm Summicron ASPH that I just do not use (I am a 50mm person, even on the M8). Comes as new with box, cap, hood, etc...<br>

Could members advise what price to list this for, as I do not see many listed and do not know what a going price would be.<br>

Many thanks.<br>

Mark</p>

 

<p>I started going a degree or two clockwise but found that I actually needed to go counter-clockwise (maybe two or three degrees from the original starting point). I, contrary to the infinity setting approach did a series of "mid point" shots at ten or so feet (using the bookcase method of picking one book and, at 1.4, seeing where the focus landed). Once I had dialed it in, I tested it at the closest near focus settings and infinity settings and everything was great at all apertures.<br>

Let me know how it goes. Again, it was surprisingly and pleasantly simple.</p>

<p>Berg, I thank you. I have known about the post for at least a year, and had even read it about a week ago, but have really dismissed it out of my own fears of even looking askance at my leicas, let alone going in with metal tools. The gradual backfocus made me even more reluctant, as a categorical back focus would have seem to make more sense for such a fix (I think what Stephen may have been referring to). Regardless, I went in and did it, and as the post mentioned after a couple of degrees of adjustment it is spot on at all distances. I could not have imagined that it would have been so easy and painless. For the first time I feel like the M8 is functioning as it should. Again, many thanks for all those that replied.</p>

<p>Many thanks, I will contact DAG.</p>

<p>I have and worked with this combo for about a year, but I have also noticed a focusing issue (which I have tried to work around by focusing compensation - i.e. i focus until what i want is sharp and then turn the focus tab and extra couple degrees more). The camera focuses accurately when I am about 3 feet away, and when I start to move back away from the subject it gradually, and increasingly, back focuses. I have noticed this on several 50mm lenses (from a noctilux [not mine], summicron, and summilux). Help.</p>

<p>Anywhere you plan to go in Manhattan will be completely fine. Having lived here for five years now I can tell you that, as others have said, there aren't any areas of Manhattan you need to worry about in daylight - or, really, night either. If you are as cautious as you appear (nothing wrong with that) you would have to truly look for trouble in this city to find it - and even then would most likely not succeed. So, sorry to disappoint, but gentrification has made it so you will be bored by the lack of edge here...</p>

<p>Photo Village<br /> photovillage.com</p>

<p>Good people.</p>

<p>Frederick,<br>

Many thanks for the posts. I wonder how you find the bokeh, as wide open it feels more harsh and busy than I prefer. Also, have you had back focus issues wide open and close? Curious.</p>

 

<p>With updates the difference between the 8 and 8.2 is cosmetic at best. I don't follow....</p>

<p>to me, the question is not whether it's a leica or not. it's whether it's a leica and you know how to use it to achieve that for which it was made (it's still, clearly, quite easy to take mediocre or poor images with a leica. it's when you know how to push a leica to show it's potential that the differences become clear). maybe others know how to get an image like the one above in natural light with another camera, i don't. so, for me, that's the leica mystique.</p>

<p><a href="http://s455.photobucket.com/albums/qq273/mccvi/?action=view&current=emil.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq273/mccvi/emil.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" /></a></p>

<p>Scott, many thanks... and nice shot.</p>

<p>Thanks for the post. Seems pretty impressive to me, despite the high tag.</p>

<p>Any chance someone would be willing to post an example of an Elmar (current version) shot they thought captured its merits? Many thanks in advance.</p>

<p>You will find that writing time if shooting in RAW (and or RAW + JPEG) is quite slow if you are shooting fast single shots (never mind continuous shooting - which I've never even tried).<br>

Having said that I would recommend the faster cards (the Extreme III with the M8 has been fine for me).<br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>Luigi.</p>

<p>The firmware upgrades makes the 8 and 8.2 indistinguishable in terms of the problems suffered and remedied. I would feel as safe purchasing an m8 as a 8.2 as long as the body purchased is updated. <br /> As far as the Summarit, they seem to find little love among Leica people from what I understand to be build quality. Personally, for your price range and wanting to do portraits, I think you might fair better tracking down a 50mm Summicron which can be easily had for the price you mentioned, will give you an extra f-stop, and will be unquestioned in terms of quality.<br>

In terms of 6-bit encoding, it is not necessary for the focal lengths you mention.<br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>Can we see a photo?</p>

<p>Patrick,<br /> Sorry, I overlooked the LR context. In that case, personally, I would favor Nik Silver Efex for batch imports (just my opinion). I'm surprised by the sharpening, as I use an M8 for digital exclusively and found the reverse to be true (as JPEG sharpening occurs regardless). If you have the time, could you direct me to the links where others found the RAW to be sharper - I may well indeed learn something new.<br>

<br /> Nik has a free trial version if you want to take it for a spin.<br /> Good luck.</p>

 

<p>Wait... your RAW images are sharper (when you say the JPEG's are softer)?<br>

Are you saying that after sharpening they are sharper? Curious because, unless you capture/creative/output sharpen them, they should be softer.<br>

After far as conversions I would highly recommend Nik Silver Effects - unless you want to use the channel mixer, etc... I think the Carr method (http://www.designbyfire.com/000100.html) is also great. Never use the desaturate, it renders horrible tones.</p>

<p>Is it on the underside (inaccessible) side of the glass? If so, I vote fungus.</p>

<p>What I am thinking is that previously deleted pictures were not sufficiently wiped off the card and or that during the writing process (which can be long shooting fine JPEG+RAW on the m8) the card or processor backed up and could not sufficiently erase the old and or write the new shot. Please... any ideas are welcome.<br>

Well, Dave, maybe not all (though you're theory is being considered).</p>