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arthur_mcculloch2

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Posts posted by arthur_mcculloch2

  1. Kaliuzhkin - CRIS adapters from here: https://shop.criscam.com/collections/mercury-battery-adapters/products/mr-9-mercury-battery-adapter. (I'm not sure of photonet's policy on advertising - the link may be removed - if so, just do a google on CRIS).

    A discussion on replacement batteries can be found here: https://cameragx.com/2020/02/12/replacement-for-mercury-batteries-2/, which also gives a good description of wein cells and their 'air bleed' holes. However, even temporarily taped up, between uses, they don't last long. The article also makes some comments on 'fake adapters' which do not make any adjustment to voltage, like the one you've provided a link for. I'm not sure that you can simply make an ASA adjustment to compensate for the different voltage - personally, I'd avoid them.

    Of course the other options are to simply use the 'sunny f16 rule', which is more than adequate for b&w and colour negative, a little less so for colour transparency, or to use a handheld meter. Sanford is right. The F is a 'cool' camera with just the plain prism. Enjoy it, it's a fabulous camera (even with a couple of notorious maintenance issues). I have a couple of F2's which I hardly use these days. Both the F and F2 were probably close to the pinnacle of Nikon cameracraft (maybe not, the FM series have always struck me as immensely attractive, even with their foibles). You could go home and use them to drive nails after a day of photographing.

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  2. Yes. Fully endorse robert_browning's comments and advice. The expected life of a zinc-air battery, once it has been exposed to the air can be extended by covering the face with the 'air bleed' holes with tape between uses, but they will never last very long, a lifetime of a few months. 5 1/2 months is good for a zinc air battery. The CRIS adapters are expensive, but you really only need one, which can be used in any camera you've got that requires the non-available mercury cells. Regards, Arthur

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  3. On 4/9/2024 at 2:43 AM, mellais said:

    Ok everybody,

    Problem solved. I didn't take into consideration that when calculating the aperture f-value, we have to use  the diameter of the lenses so called  entrance pupil — not the actual size of the iris, but rather its magnified image as seen through the front of the lens as Jay Holben points out in an article published on the American Association of Cinematographers' website (visited on April 8, 2024, see https://theasc.com/blog/shot-craft/the-entrance-pupil-of-the-lens).

    So the camera should work as intended - time to put it back together and start shooting. 

    P.S. 

    This made me think of a possible modification; since there is room for wider movement in the diaphragm itself than what is being used, I will see if I could rebuild the linkage between the aperture ring and the lever making it possible to use the aperture to its full potential. At the very least one could get f22 instead of f16 min aperture and possibly a max aperture beyond f1.8, if the lens design allows it.

    Good outcome.  As noted before, I've been told that the xenon f2.8 used in some kodak retinas is the same lens as the xenon f2 but with the aperture stopped before getting to f2.  That may be an urban myth, like the notion that the ektar used in the retina I's was simply a rebadged xenar to get around US post war import controls. Let me know how you go. Regards, Arthur

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  4. 4 hours ago, kmac said:

    Yes, I take photos of shutter parts as I disassemble them, so by studying the photos I can see which way things go back.

    Without posting a pic of my Minolta 7S, I can say the aperture opening at f16 is very small, as is the one in the OP, but for a 40mm lens, the f16 opening will be slightly smaller than that of the 45mm 7S lens, but not by much.

    For some of my larger cameras, I could easily stick a pencil through the f16 aperture opening. Longer focal lengths need more light.

     

     

     

    Thanks kmac. That's good to know. Regards, Arthur.

  5. 6 hours ago, kmac said:

    The aperture blades look ok, you can't really make a mistake reassembling them, as long as their pins are set in their positions correctly. The aperture opening on yours looks the same as my Minolta 7S, which is 45mm focal length, but f16 is still pretty small.

    Hi kmac. 'You can't really make a mistake reassembling them': I have (at least on a synchro compur), by putting the blades in back the front. They still fit the pins, look proper, but when actuated, close, then reopen in the rest state. From the photo, it does look more like f22 than f16 to me. But that is guessing. For the widest aperture, I've heard that, for instance, that the f2.8 xenon used in the retina IIa was simply the f2 lens with the aperture not opening as wide - but that could be an urban myth. Regards, Arthur.

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