steve_kirby1

<p>Theoretically you should get close to it, but your image quality will suffer some and so will flatness of field.</p>

<p>I have a shoot this Saturday with a fairly large family group. My question is this, how do I go about doing a modeling release for this kind of situation? Does everyone's name have to be on the release, including minor children?<br>

TIA<br>

Steve</p>

 

<p>I am not so much a beginner at photography, but this is something I have been unable to master.</p>

<p>The hardest thing for me to do is to balance flash with ambient light outdoors to get a natural effect. It seems I am either not getting enough flash on the subject, to where it basically does not look like I did any fill at all, or I get too much, and either wash out the subject. For the most part I am not satisfied using my speedlight in the TTL mode, it does not do that good a job or really balancing the light to where it looks natural</p>

<p>I am using either a Nikon D90 or Nikon FM2 and an SB-600</p>

<p>Any hints and tips?</p>

 

<p>There has obviously been a change in the way photos are rated here. I have a question though. I went to post a photo for critique, but when it came up, it said "critique only". How do I enable the rating system?</p>

<p>I am considering getting a fast short telephoto and am looking hard at the 135mm f/2 AIS Nikkor. In the few reviews I can find on the web, there seems to be some concern about chromatic aberration and magenta fringing in particular with this lens. Generally, the comments are favorable when it comes to sharpness.</p>

<p>Has anyone had experience with this lens? What are your impressions of it? I can find one used, in near immaculate shape, for just under $500, including the case.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Steve</p>

 

<p>Hey all,</p>

<p>I am really itching to get into long telephoto. I have a line on both a 600mm f/4 and f/5.6 AIS Nikkor. As expected, the difference in price is fairly substantial. The one stop difference is not that significant to me, as I will most likely be using a tripod for most of the shots.</p>

<p>Does anyone here have any information about how the f/5.6 stacks up optically to the f/4? I have searched the web pretty exhaustively and have been unable to find anything really concrete.</p>

<p>TIA</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Patrick,</p>

<p>Could you please send me an email describing how you cleaned up those diamonds? I would sure appreciate it.</p>

<p>Steve.</p>

<p>I have a good friend who owns an independent jewelry store here in town and he asked me if I was interested in photographing some jewelry for his store's website. He is willing to pay me the going rate. The problem is I don't know what the going rate is and I don't want to ask him, for fear of looking like I don't know what I am doing.</p>

<p>My question is, how should I charge him? Should I charge by the image or an hourly rate? If so, what is a customary charge, including Photoshop work?</p>

<p>Below is a photo of one of my wife's rings. I think it turned out well. Any critiques of the image are also welcome!</p>

<p><br />Thanks,</p>

<p>Steve</p><div></div>

<p>I am sure most if not all of you have seen a product image where part of the image is isolated but "partially whiting out" the rest of the image. How do you achieve this effect? I have tried slecting the image I want to show, inverting the selection and lightening it with either the brightness and contrast menu or curves and I just cannot achieve the same effect.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Thanks Jose. Ken Rockwell reviewed it and did not like it. He mentioned that he saw slippage of the standards when he tilted it about 30º down and then locked down the knobs. Have you experienced similar experiences?</p>

<p>I am watching a Fleabay auction for a mint condition Nikon PB-6 and PS-6. With less than a day to go it is only up to about $90. Of course it could triple before the end of the auction, but I digress. I do not have any experience with this bellows and am asking anyone out there who has what their thoughts are on it; good, bad or indifferent.</p>

<p>Thanks for the help!</p>

<p>SK</p>

 

<p>You did a lot with it, to be sure, but it can still be improved considerably. Go to Images-adjustments-color and saturation- select yellows and knock down the yellow saturation. There was just a touch of green in it as well, so I knocked that down too. Now the colors are pretty much neutral.</p><div></div>

<p>I recently got a great deal on a Nikon F4 G1 (12mm microprism in a clear fresnel field) focusing screen and have noticed rather bad vignetting, getting worse as focal length increases, in the viewfinder. Nothing of course shows up on the film. Focusing is still very easy and very bright on the microprism but the vignetting is bad enough with telephoto lenses that it actually makes it difficult to see what is in the corners of the finder.</p>

<p>Is this normal? Is there something I can do to eliminate this?</p>

 

<p>Hey all,</p>

 

<p>I decided on the F4s after all but I do not have a manual for it. I have been searching the web, and cannot find a URL for a free download of the manual.</p>

 

<p>Can anyone help?</p>

 

<p>TIA</p>

 

<p>Steve.<br>

 <br>

 <br>

 </p>

<p>Thanks all, you have been very helpful! Since I only own one autofocus lens and it is a DX lens for my D90, having been plunking down money for used AIS lenses for my FM2 and upon suggestion by a fellow PN member, purchased both a spotmeter and incident meter, I honestly do not see an F6 providing any real tangible advantage for me for the additional money it will cost over an F5.</p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>The Lee system is very good, but expensive. The Cokin X-Pro system will accomodate the Blad Bay 70 system no sweat and Cokin does have a polarizer for that system. They also have 2x and 4x grad ND filters (I have both in the P series) and they work very well.</p>

<p>Before you make up your mind, look into the Cokin X-Pro series</p>

 

<p>The film bug has bitten me hard, I wonder why it took me so long to do it. I have a Nikon FM2 in addition to my D90, but am really looking to upgrade my film camera.</p>

<p>Apart from the obvious difference in price and perhaps age, what advantages does an F6 (used, not new) have over an F5 to make it worth spending the extra $400? I do like the flexibility of the F5 to have interchangeable finders, which is definitely a plus.</p>

<p>Thanks in Advance,</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Duplicate post, please disregard</p>

<p>I can understand why you may need to sharpen an image if you enlarge it in PS, but why should you need to sharpen it also when you downsize the image?</p>

<p>Just curious</p>

<p>Steve</p>

 

<p>I think that one guy in the fluorescent vest holding a sign "I am a photographer, not a terrorist" might have been a little more convincing had he not worn that silly mask. Real terrorists often wear something to cover their face. He did not help himself out with that choice</p>

<p>Remember the old saying you can never be too thin or too rich?</p>

<p>Well, when it comes to a lens, it can never be <em>too sharp.</em> Of course there are other considerations as well; how contrasty it is, how well it renders colors and how attractive the bokeh. And of course, cost.</p>

<p>If a lens is too sharp, for example, when doing portraiture, especially of women, it's sharpness can always be toned down a bit in PS. Most women are not interested in seeing every pore and wrinkle, far from it.</p>

<p>I have been approached by an aspiring model to do her portfolio. I am pretty excited about it. I am guessing I can do some headshot, commercial, swimsuit, fashion and fitness photos.</p>

<p>I know she should approach other photographers as well, to get different perspectives.</p>

<p>My question is, how much should I charge her for all the work described above? I will provide her with a few prints and a tear sheet but most will be full size on a CD. Should I do it for a flat fee, with an agreed upon number of prints, or by the hour?</p>

<p>I really want to start doing some work for hire (mostly portraiture but maybe some commercial stuff as well) but I don't know how to market myself. I placed an ad in Craig's list, complete with photos, but got no responses.</p>

<p>From your experience, what is the best way to get your name out there? I have made up some professional looking business cards already.</p>

<p>Any tips and experiences would be greatly appreciated.</p>

 

<p>A friend of mine showed me a book she had done by Adorama. It was a 25 page, 5 x 7, fully bound book. It was <em>very well done</em>, and only cost her about $25. The digital images are actually on RP4 (color photographic paper rather than printer paper) and I must say I was very impressed.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br />I got a 160GB external hard drive to back up all my photo files recently. It occurred to me that I might as well completely back up my internal hard drive to it as well. My computer is getting a little dated and the last thing I want is to have to the hard drive go south and put me out of action like it did a few years ago.</p>

<p>Does anyone know of a good program for making a <em>complete</em> mirror copy, including OS and all hidden files of your C:/ to an external HD? Shareware or otherwise.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p> </p>