a._morg

I notice that after i placed a lens mounted to the lensboard into the

enlarger lensboard holder. , there was some right/left play. The lens

holder/neg holder etc are all level. is a small amount of lensboard

play normal? there's no back/forth play however.

I plunked down about 300 to buy the Schneider Componon S 100mm 5.6

lens. Does anyone have any experience with this lens? Should it give

me much better results than the other 75mm lens (off brand) that i'm

currently using for my 6X7 negs? By the responses from you folks, i

figured 100mm should be an excellent choice for the 6X7 format...and

Schneider quality (while maybe not as good as Rodagon or others),

still speaks for itself. What do you folks think?

I just assembled my 67 med. format beseler enarger. While putting it

together, i noted there were some dust specs on the condensers (2 of

them). When i did a test with the enlarger on and the neg. carrier in

place, I noted specs of dust magnified on the easel (no neg. was in

during this test). I'm using a 75mm lens/ no obvious vignetting. I

took a blower brush and cleaned the condensers/some dust particles

fell away. a small one remains. I suspected it may be on the lens but

even a small spec of dust on the lens shouldn't show (i had cleaned

the lens of course...it is used)...How can i be sure it's not dust on

the lens surface or a defect within the lens elements???

thanks

happy NY to everyerone.

I just got a beseler 6 by 7 enlarger. It can do both 35 and 6X7. The

guy told me i'd need to buy a different lens when enlarging 6X7

negatives (he was right) and sold me a 75mm lens (a 50mm came w/the

enlarger for 35mm negs). When I read the manual, beseler recommended

75mm for 6X6 and a 90mm enlarging lens for the 6X7. Has the guy

stiffed me? Now that i have 6X7 negs and a 75mm enlarging lens (when

the manual rec's 90mm), what will I or what won't i be able to

do...or doesn't it make a difference????

thanks

I used to used a Besler + hand reel processing/trays for my 35mm b/w

processing and enlarging for years. I gave it up a few years ago and

went with a "dry" darkroom setup with an Epson Stylus 1200 printer

and a Canoscan Fs2710 scanner. I achieved some beautiful results with

this set up. Now since i've moved into MF (still have my 35mm stuff),

I still want to exercise some control over my printing (excluding E6

emulsion)/ I do not want to mess with C41. So my question is, should

i plunk down a few hundred (or can I economically?) for a medium

format enlarger and go back to the "wet" darkroom for my b and w . Or

should I shoot TM400CN or IlfordXP2 and let a lab print it and get

similar results? Finally, for C41...after I have the lab develop it,

would it be to expensive to put 6X7's onto a ProPhotoCD so I can

exercise control over the final print in Adobe and w/my epson stylus.

Long question, but i'll bet this dilemma is facing some of you. Any

input is appreciated. (by the way, i stayed away from the chromogenic

stuff years ago because the prints sucked/it may be because they were

being printed on regular color paper rather than b/w.

I've read quite a few reports touting the Rz67II as a studio

workhorse (notice I said "a", not "the"). Any experience as to how

durable the basic manufacturing is (gear mechanisms, etc)..any

premature breakdown? Also, for outdoor photography (on a tripod of

course), can it withstand below zero weather for a few shots?

I have an rz pro II system with the waist level finder which for the

time being works very well. I'm using the camera almost 100% for

portrait/commercial/fashion work. Occ., i'll have to tip the angle of

view down about 30 degress to get a table top shot mounted on a

tripod. This occ. is a pain, but works (occ light reflection in the

view finder/change of body position, etc). Is it worth plunking down

an additional 700-800 bucks (or whatever the cost of a new finder is)

to get a "view" advangtage. I specify "view" advangtage because i use

my minolta or seikonic meter for all my studio/strobe shots (i.e. i'm

not concerned about the metering). Any comments by anyone who bought

one and found it useful vs. not worth the investment would be

appreciated.

thanks

a.morg

I have a new rz67proII and have a question about the mamiya polaroid

back. After i took my first exposure (with the pol. back on), I

pulled the white tab, then the yellow tab, and pulled the first print

out. It went fine. I then (tried to ) cock the shutter to take a

second exposure in sequence. The orange light came one. My dark slide

was out and i triple checked everything else. I re-cocked the film

advance lever again thinking I hadn't done it fully (and it had a

loose feel/play to it...not broken...but i mean that it was somehow

already in the cocked/adv. mode)The only thought that came to my mind

is that the body is not registering the polaroid film advance because

it's in separate sheets. Therefore i turned the R/M knob from the

neutral position to the M for multiple exposure. I was then able to

cock the film adv/mirror (with the correct feel etc) and the light

went out and i could take the shot. Something doesn't seem right.

What am i doing wrong. It doesn't seem that when using a polaroid

back that i should only be able to cock the shutter/raise the mirror

with the camera in the M position. Or do i have to take a

polaroid ,change backs to thet 120 back, fire a shot, and then re-

attach the polaroid back. Please help. During all this time, my dark

slide was removed and was inserted into the holder in the back of the

polaroid. All the other switches were in the correct position. What

is the correct sequence of events when shooting polaroids (to advance

the film that is). The polaroids came out fine by the way.

thanks

a.b.