max_edin

<p>Donald, it shouldn't be my screen since it is calibrated with a spyder3 (This morning, actually)</p>

<p>Stuart, this happens even though it's not overexposed. Here's an example, 100% crops.</p>

<p>Camera 5D, lens 28-70 2.8.</p>

<p>First shot recovery is at 0, second 100. Note how in the first photo his skin tone is slightly yellow and in the second one its magenta.</p>

<p>http://dl.dropbox.com/u/77620/magenta_lr.jpg</p>

<p>Has anyone else noticed that using the recovery slider adds a magenta cast to skin tones?</p>

<p>I see this especially if I shoot in around 2800 - 4000 K lighting. When using recovery if I add a green cast with the tint slider it fixes the skin tones but makes the rest of the image green. I'm forced to use recovery in combination with the tint and wb sliders and HSL to get a proper WB in the photo.</p>

<p>Anyone else bumped into this? Quite annoying.</p>

<p>I shoot low light parties a lot and I've tried lots of things.<br>

<br /> Stuff that makes working in these conditions easier is a fullframe camera (for a bigger and brighter viewfinder), a fast lens (for a bigger and brighter viewfinder), and a flash (can't really do it without one).<br>

<br /> I started out using just direct flash slightly underexposed while exposing for the ambient light. Looked OK.<br>

<br /> I moved on to use a diffuser on my flash, then went to bouncing via the ceiling.<br>

<br /> I then found Neil van Niererks blog and found the black foamie thingy. If the room is right it works wonderfully.<br /> I now use my 580EX II on my camera, set to master flash and my old, cracked screen, taped togheter 430EX as slave in my left hand. For this you'd want a camera strap. I now expose for the ambient but with different settings. Depending on the light levels and what effect I want, I generally keep my settings at 1/4-1/10 shutter speed, f/4 or so. I first try to balance the ambient by using ISO, then by varying the shutterspeed. By using the 430EX to freeze motion you can really use any shutterspeed you like.<br /> Here are some examples from saturday.<br>

<br /> <img src="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/77620/IMG_0052-1.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<br /> <img src="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/77620/IMG_9946-3.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<br /> <img src="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/77620/IMG_9972-5.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<br /> <img src="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/77620/IMG_0022-8.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<br /> <img src="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/77620/IMG_0114-11.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>That looks fugly, but the idea is neat. They need to improve the HDR algorithm to make it look more realistic. Instead of having it look like candy use the increased DR to improve the shot.</p>

<p>I'm having a simmilar issue.</p>

<p>I've found a website that has taken one of my photos from my flickr account. While they do give me credit for the image I have stated on my flickr account that I reserve all rights. What makes things complicated is that I am from Finland and afaik the site in question is hosted and operated in the US. How would I go about filing a small claims?<br>

I'd go the DMCA route but as stated, doesn't really make the site stop...<br>

In finland common practice with regards to unlawful use is to send a bill for at least 3x the normal amount to the company that used your photo without permission, then letting the bill get paid or stay unpaid before taking it to our version of "small claims court" and having the company pay the bill, whatever legal costs +damages if any can be proven.</p>

<p>Also, if you're shooting in cold weather aluminum and other metal tripods get all sorts of problems and freeze your hands. Wood is nice.</p>

<p>I do this all the time! :)<br>

<img src="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/77620/pofo001.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/77620/pofo002.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Everyones thinkin technically here.<br>

I think the bride meant HOW he took them, i.e. walking in the isle, not dissapearing into the background, constantly being "in your face" or something like that.</p>

<p>AFAIK it would be cheaper to buy a "new" used 350D. I suspect the PCB Assy and the motor drive parts to cost more than a lightly used 350D.</p>

<p>I've got a couple of years of experience as a graphics artist before I became a photographer.<br>

I've been thinking of selling my services as a photo book layouter for photographers during the summer, since I mainly shoot weddings and have little to do during the week.<br>

Seems like there is some demand for a service like this :)</p>

<p>Go and buy a book about pricing. Pricing product photography, photography or any service is done with the same principles.<br>

One way of pricing yourself is to first calculate your costs of doing business for one year. Then add your (and your employees) yearly salary to that number and then add your companies desiered profit. Divide this by the amount of work you wish to do per year (in hours or photos shot, whatever makes most sense to you) and you have your billing ammount per work. I use hours, but I convert that into a package sum. I find it more easy for clients to understand what the final sum will be if it is explained as a per day or per shot fee.</p>

<p>Well, I'd suggest since you appear to not really know much about photography to save time and work and just hire a product photographer.</p>

<p>I'm in the same boat.</p>

<p>I'm going to get her a sigma 30mm 1.4.</p>

<p>Gel onto flash, attatch with velcro on both shorter sides, force stofen on flashhead = success</p>

<p>.</p>

<p>David, no since it still fires a preflash.<br>

Turn your on-camera flash to manual then you should have no problem.<br>

The photos become darker because the preflash triggers the elincas and they fire, the camera sees their light as the camera flashes light and therefore compensates by lowering flashoutput = a darker image.</p>

<p>But as always, photography is about light, not gear. If there ain't no sunset, you can't get a sunset photo. Quite simple. try to use the light to your advantage. Don't use wideangle from the ground pointing upwards towards a monument to get a "snapshot" where the sky is blown out. Try to capture details for example, that way you can ignore the sky. Or try a different wide-angle angle to avoid getting the sky in the frame.<br>

But since this sounds like a holliday I wouldn't worry about the photography, try to enjoy yourself =) Since you have no client to impress be creative and try new things. That's what I always do. Or try :)</p>

<p>They may not actually even know who the photographer is! Be sure to always have correct IPTC data for bigger newspapers and find out how filenames are written over there. Here it's customary to write <filename>_fotoPhotographersName.jpg for the filanems in order to identify the photographer. It's amazing that only the large newspapers here know what EXIF or Metadata / IPTC is.<br>

But since you just gave away photos without asking for anything you can't really complain afterwards. You could send them an email asking that next time they publish the photos that they ask the newspaper to name you as the photog. But imo credits don't really mean anything these days.</p>

<p>Forget off camera flash, you'll just stress yourself out trying to get goot lightning all over the church. If you've never done this before, don't do it at a wedding.<br>

My suggestion is rent a 24/28 prime, a better 50 prime and an 85 prime and shoot available light. Might also want to rent a 5DMKII in order to get better low light capability.</p>

<p>This just a tip to get those balloon shots to be even more awesome.</p>

<p>Further increase the distance between the balloon and the dark background and flag your flashes not to hit the background to make it totally black.</p>

<p>AND use a pellet gun to break the balloons. This might make the thing breaking the not visible in the shot and make it even more abstract and cool. I already like the motion blur that you don't really see in shots like these.</p>

<p>And remember, if you shoot RAW then you can't realy rely on the histogram either since it's taken from the embedded JPG and not the RAW file. So it will be wrong if your whitebalance is waay of; for example (My experience, anyway). But that's the best help we get =)</p>

<p>Well mainly there doesn't seem to be that many actuall business discussions going on. Just basic questions regarding pricing and such. Maybe I'm just expecting too much?</p>

<p>I have been googling and googling but I haven't found any active event photography forum? Anyone know of any that are currently still active?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>What lens were you using? I've seen this effect with cheaper lenses, but never with L's.</p>

<p>

I assume the poster refers to Slims in San Francisco.<br>

First of all, Slims is not "amateur." It's one of the premier venues in San Francisco for non-arena shows, although it does feature a lot of local and up-and-coming bands. Slims is owned by a group lead by Boz Scaggs, they also own The Great American Music Hall, a much better place for shooting. Learn about something before spewing about it. What you have said is an insult.

<br>

I do not know what "slims" is. I generally assumed that it was what I call an amateur venue, and amateur venues here in Finland (where I live) have lightning so bad that you just want to give up shooting and go home. I was just trying to help the first poster by not expecting the best. I always prepare for the worst if I do not know the venue. Sheez.</p>