johnny_mustard

<p>i have to put my 2 cents in since i mostly shoot with my Nikon f2 (nikkor prime lenses) and my hasselblad 500c (zeiss prime lenses). There's definitely a significant difference. One is not better than the other but the two looks are very different. Words are not my forte but i would say the Nikon lenses look a bit more "vintagy" Hasselblad photos look "cleaner" and dare I say "sharper" and definitely "smoother". If anyone is curious I can post a link to my work.</p>

<p>Steve, very curious why Hasse for b&w and f2 for color?!<br>

Peter thank you for that. Just checked out your personal page. Didn't see a lot of black and whites but liked your beautiful images. Michael, i just got back my scans and believe that i can now see a difference between b&w film and color/digi, at least with my limited ps skills. If anyone is curious i've uploaded this project at <a href="johnnyroc.tumblr.com">http://johnnyroc.tumblr.com</a> Not sure if it's appropriate to post my work like that. If anyone feels like guessing which ones were shot with the Hasselblad and which ones were shot with the Nikon f2 feel free.</p>

<p>Jeremy, sorry i just realized that what i said was a bit offensive, didn't meat to offend you. Yes i'm one of those guys who gets excited over gear so i'm forcing myself to shoot more and collect less. Thanks for your post i probably misread it.</p>

<p>Thanks Larry and Lex, i like this forum, people know what they are talking about.</p>

<p>No, i wish. One day. Icon lab in Los Angeles for now.</p>

<p>Andrew, thank you for that. You are so right. Film it is.</p>

<p>Jeremy i was very excited when i read the first part and thought I found the answer. Then I read the second half which made me doubt your expertise. I do not believe my D40 is superior to my hasse or nikon or any camera with a good lens that takes film.</p>

<p>Alan thanks for all the info. The ripstop nylon is a good idea i can probably pick it up at a local fabric store. I only shoot film but i'll test this out with my dslr, sounds like it should work.</p>

<p>Alan and Jerry, thanks! But that's not what i'm asking.<br>

Alan, thank you for that but you still haven't answered my question. I agree both mediums are great but can you tell the difference between something that was shoot on b&w film and something that was shot on color film and desaturated properly in photoshop? I tried googling this and surprisingly i can't get an answer on this.<br>

Jerry, I own 12 cameras including a canon D40 dslr which i rarely use. I've done tests and find that the latitude is much smaller than of 35mm. I mostly use my Nikon f2 35mm camera and my hasselblad 500c that takes 120 film. I use one of the best labs in LA they can do b&w, push, pull, etc.</p>

<p>Hi i have my first "real" photoshoot tomorrow with a pro model<br>

my shot list only contains black and whites but i was thinking why not shoot color just in case. So the question is shooting b&w a way for purists to feel special or is there a real advantage? I have a feeling that stripping color even if you do it right will never look as good but not sure.</p>

<p>Thanks T, lots of good info. Can't afford HMIs right now they are so expensive. Can I achieve the same look with my tungsten light? That's the question.</p>

<p>trying to achieve an extremely soft daylight with some shadows with my arri 1k tungsten hot light and so far my efforts look very fake.<br>

I've tried everything but mostly a blue gel to get rid of yellow, diffuse it with some film, bounce it off the wall or a reflector, move it far away from the subject, maybe i should try some white fabric. I've also tried placing some "curtains" in front of it to create soft shadows. But it still doesn't look like that 4p or 9a light coming through the window. Please, help!</p>

 

<p>Interesting. Someone mentioned that it is impossible to get sharp photos with the polaroid back, I've tried one roll and they're all a little soft, maybe it's the manual focus not sure. But about to shoot a roll of 120 for the first time, will see what happens. Very exciting.<br>

And just curious and this is probably a touchy subject but are Hasselblad and Mamiya considered like ford and chevy or is one regarded as a better brand? I've read that Hasse is the best but a friend told me that most pros shoot with Mamiya. But then he was selling his so who knows.</p>

<p>i've also heard that mf produces smoother skin tones, and is ideal for portraits, not sure if there's any truth to that but you can always tastefully blur out the skin in ps if that's the only difference. Shooting my first roll of 120 in an hour. We'll see what happens. </p>

<p>wow it sounds like there're a lot or pros on this board. Or at least people who know what they are talking about. I've decided to take it easy with all the gear obsession and start taking pics again. I haven't even scratched the surface of what 35mm can do so maybe a few months from now i'll turn to my hasse. But since i have the hasse I'm gonna go out and shoot my first roll of 120 in an hour just for fun. It's a porta400nc. Maybe i'll dump all my canon toys after this roll, you never know.<br>

The polaroid look i was after was taken with the Mamiya:<br>

i think mf or 35 + photoshop can achieve similar results.</p>

<p>Gregory, that's what i thought, it's nice to hear a confirmation. Just bought an adapter for my Hasselblad lens so i can use it on my Canon 7NE. I have a few primes already, my fav is the f1.8 85mm. </p>

<p>Yes i was talking about inches not feet. But not talking about resolution. But some other quality not sure what it is. Obviously lenses make the biggest difference. I'm a film director, i can easily tell if the footage was shot on 35mm or digitally. I can spot the RED camera a mile away. With stills it's harder but i can still tell last i checked if something was shot on film or with a dslr. My question is can a pro tell if something was shot with mf or 35mm if you see it online. i'm not sure i can. </p>

<p>just got back from Samy's, Culver City is a little far from me.<br>

They showed me around on the 4th floor, but i'm now realizing that I should have gotten the rb67 instead. Hasse (and i'm calling it that not because i'm trying to sound like a pro but because i don't know how to spell the entire thing) is giving me these tiny images, i wish i could fill up the entire frame. I'm talking about the polaroid back and fuji's instant film.</p>

<p>and i'm sure it's been discussed to death all over the web.<br>

note - we all know that medium format is sexier than 35. that aside:<br>

35mm + 100iso + prime lens + photoshop -> web only output = medium format or < medium format<br>

which is true?! Just bought a hasse 500c and thinking about selling it already.<br>

i'm aware about the size of the neg, and one can see more grain if you you blow it up, etc. Only interested in mind-blowing 4 by 6 images at 72 dpi.</p>

<p>so I got the 500c from ebay yesterday specifically to make polaroid type photos (didn't want to use an actual polaroid land cam with those plastic lenses). I should have done more research. I get these little blue-ish images surround by a huge black border. Correct me if i'm wrong but the only way for me to utilize the entire frame is to trade the hasse for the rb67 (and get a little cash back hopefully). Am i right? The blue effect i'm assuming is an easy fix - i'm probably not peeling it fast enough or peeling it too soon. Any advice on the size of the image?</p>

<p>well, the idea was to get comfy with a store so i end up spending my money there.<br>

Even if it's just a few rolls of film now and then. But i do see your point.<br>

Thanks Tim, lots of great info! I did buy the 500c primarily to use with the fuji's fp-100c so the prism has to clear the polaroid back. Just did a bit of research online and it seems like the nc-2 won't do the trick. I guess it's between the PM45 and PM5 both are highly recommended. I can afford both, not sure which one's better.</p>

<p>also, what makes me instantly miss 35mm is when trying to focus with the 500c when i want to go left i need to go right, when i want to go down i need to go up, i'm sure you get used to it but it's a bit annoying. Is there any way to "fix" that?</p>

<p>got one from ebay. Thought I'd be able to figure it out since i have lost of experience with 35mm and dslrs but boy was i wrong. Can't even figure out how to set shutter speed. Not even gonna attempt to load the polaroid back.<br>

There's info online, i read the manual ( and realized i should have bought the 500cm instead ) and am thinking maybe there's a shop somewhere in Hollywood or Los Angeles where i can stop by when it's slow and have someone show me around in 5 min. Any thoughts on the shop? Not Sammys please.<br>

I'm also interested in converting the viewfinder, maybe later later, since this one is known to be too dark to comfortably focus. I've heard the best Hasselblad service center in the world is in LA, not sure which one it is.</p>