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gubo

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Posts posted by gubo

    Autocord repair

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Scott -<br>

    Karl Bryan in Beaverton, Oregon is a specialist who services only Minolta Autocords, Ricoh Diacords and Ricohmatic 225s. He's professional, reasonably priced and provides very fast turnaround. His email is karl.kathy (at) frontier.com. He's performed CLAs and repairs to numerous cameras for me over the last several years, including the manufacture of a helical focusing lever for the Autocord, and I've been very pleased with his service.</p>

    Mark Hama

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Recently I spoke to Mr. Hama at length on the phone about servicing a Kowa Kalloflex TLR with a jammed shutter and film advance that I had taken a chance on at auction. It's an uncommon camera, and the first four camera techs I had approached -- all TLR specialists -- were either hesitant or flat-out declined to work on it. Mr. Hama, a very nice guy to deal with, said he'd be willing to take a look and give me a free, no obligation estimate. After I sent him the camera, he gave me a definitive "I can fix it" for a very reasonable charge, with a six-month guarantee. Within a few days he had completely disassembled the shutter and film advance interlock, repaired a bent part and cleaned, relubed and readjusted everything. He performed a complete full-camera overhaul as well. He even emailed me a jpg of my disassembled camera in pieces, and told me to call him so he could walk me through everything he did. It's a pretty idiosyncratic design, but he clearly saw it as a challenge and a learning experience for him as a technician. As it turned out, I had to return the camera once for a very delicate adjustment, which he performed promptly and with good grace, and even paid for shipping both ways. I can recommend him highly. By the way, the Kalloflex is a joy to use. It is built like a tank, and has the most ergonomic design for fast operation of any TLR I've come across. The four element Prominar taking lens is an excellent example of its type -- one of the best Tessar type lenses from Japan, rivalling the Rokkor on my Autocord.</p>

    Mark Hama

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Recently I spoke to Mr. Hama at length on the phone about servicing a Kowa Kalloflex TLR with a jammed shutter and film advance that I had taken a chance on at auction. It's an uncommon camera, and the first four camera techs I had approached -- all TLR specialists -- were either hesitant or flat-out declined to work on it. Mr. Hama, a very nice guy to deal with, said he'd be willing to take a look and give me a free, no obligation estimate. After I sent him the camera, he gave me a definitive "I can fix it" for a very reasonable charge, with a six-month guarantee. Within a few days he had completely disassembled the shutter and film advance interlock, repaired a bent part and cleaned, relubed and readjusted everything. He performed a complete full-camera overhaul as well. He even emailed me a jpg of my disassembled camera in pieces, and told me to call him so he could walk me through everything he did. It's a pretty idiosyncratic design, but he clearly saw it as a challenge and a learning experience for him as a technician. As it turned out, I had to return the camera once for a very delicate adjustment, which he performed promptly and with good grace, and even paid for shipping both ways. I can recommend him highly. By the way, the Kalloflex is a joy to use. It is built like a tank, and has the most ergonomic design for fast operation of any TLR I've come across. The four element Prominar taking lens is an excellent example of its type -- one of the best Tessar type lenses from Japan, rivalling the Rokkor on my Autocord.</p>

    Daiichi Zenobia loading problem

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>I learned two new things in the last few days. First, I learned to be patient with a slow network reponse in posting here, or else risk posting the same thing twice, cough. The other thing I learned is that apparently these early Zenobias were made in the days when 120 film came on metal spools with thin, lip-less ends. Even though the dimensions of the old spools are otherwise identical to today's, the insanely tight manufacturing tolerances of the Daiichi company can lead to random incompatibility with modern film spools, with their ever-so-slightly thicker plastic ends, reinforced as they are with a shallow rim, like the edge around the top of a coin.</p>

    <p>My own work-around is to carry a small nail file. A few strokes will take down the spool rim enough to enable film loading.</p>

    <p>It's really a fun little camera to carry around -- haven't come across another folder that you can reasonably put in your pocket -- and the Neo-Hesper lens is great. A pocketful of fun for about the price of a pimped Holga.</p>

    Daiichi Zenobia loading problem

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Very timely post! I recently acquired the identical model Zenobia, and encountered the same difficulty, except that I was unable to load either Fuji Acros or Tri-X. The old no-name metal (and lipless) spool that was in the film supply chamber dropped in and out just fine, but the chamber would not accept any new roll of film with a lipped plastic spool. Various empty plastic spools -- Agfa, Fuji, Kodak -- fit just fine in the take-up chamber. In order to get started, I took my kitchen shears and clipped off a small part of the protuding lip of the plastic Tri-X spool and it was enough to load the roll, which is now in the camera. Not willing to do this repeatedly, I'd like a report on the Dremel operation. Or -- any other ideas?</p>

    Daiichi Zenobia loading problem

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Very timely post! I recently acquired the identical model Zenobia, and encountered the same difficulty, except that I was unable to load either Fuji Acros or Tri-X. The old no-name metal (and lipless) spool that was in the film supply chamber dropped in and out just fine, but the chamber would not accept any new roll of film with a lipped plastic spool. Various empty plastic spools -- Agfa, Fuji, Kodak -- fit just fine in the take-up chamber. In order to get started, I took my kitchen shears and clipped off a small part of the protuding lip of the plastic Tri-X spool and it was enough to load the roll, which is now in the camera. Not willing to do this repeatedly, I'd like a report on the Dremel operation. Or -- any other ideas?</p>

    Lens decisions

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    What Doug said. This seems to be a good time to pick up Leica reflex gear. I've always been an M shooter but recently diversified into an SL2 when a great deal on a 60mm Macro-Elmarit (3 cam, 2nd version) came up. I added an E55 late 35mm Elmarit and E55 late 90mm Elmarit, both 3 cam, for well within your stated budget and am well pleased with both of them. I topped it off with a 400mm f6.8 Telyt with shoulder stock -- that one is a 2 cam -- which despite being mint was the least costly of them all (a fun but special-use piece of gear). Good hunting, there are deals to be had out there.

    metal hood 12585h

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Andrew, perhaps you can report in your excellent website

    on the hood referenced by Richie above. It's Chinese made,

    branded S&W and sold by "Heavystar" on eBay (no connection).

    It's well fabricated in matte black metal, vented, and uses a

    screw-in E39 thread. At US$15 it strikes me as well-priced,

    and I am pleased with the one I have. If you lose it, you

    can buy another 6 or 7 of them and still save money over a

    Leica 12585H (which I have as well, for those bella figura occasions).

    Hexar RF Experiences, Repair Issues

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    In my 4 years as a hard user of the Hexar RF, my

    experience of its build quality has generally been

    very positive. That said, I did have occasion to

    knock the rangefinder out of vertical alignment

    by dropping it on a gym floor from about chair

    level. As a gray import it was not covered under

    warranty, but Konica USA in Mahwah, N.J., fixed

    it for $40 including return shipping. Turn around time

    was a week. On another occasion I had to replace the

    eyepiece glass which had loosened and fell out, and

    Konica USA parts department sent me the replacement

    for less than $2. Don't know what support the new

    Konica Minolta organization currently provides. As an

    alternative, you could try Greg Weber, said to be

    the leading independent Konica repair specialist in

    the U.S. BTW, I have never experienced any of the

    fabled KM mount back focus issues with any of my

    Leica M glass.

    Alternative lens cap for 50mm f/2

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    What works aces for me is a 42mm Kaiser push-on

    cap. The secret is that it fits inside the extended

    lens hood, not outside the filter. Secure fit without

    being tight -- cap pops off by slightly retracting the

    hood, but not susceptible of being casually knocked loose.

    Looks good, plain front, no logo.

     

    -- PMCC

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