mr._c
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Posts posted by mr._c
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<p>Does a client care more on the final print (end results) regardless of the amount of time spent on the event shoot? Or is ... common (standard?) practice to quote in time intervals? (eg. an hour? or even 15 minutes or half hour intervals?)</p>
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<p>If a domain name is same as or similar to a business name, should you include this info. (eg. business name) with the product or prints you're selling?<br>
Or just the photographer's name? (in case the business name reverses or changes in the future)<br>
Is copyright possible on just the business name or should be a person's name? Or is anomymous possible?</p>
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<p>In addition to providing these pieces of paper, do you also track the buyer's name, address, contact, or other info.?<br>
If paper certificates are easy to reproduce, what are other additional add on security measures you could provide? (eg. have the buyer's picture profile (eg. headshot) kept along with certificate?, or hand or fingerprint as well?)<br>
Backup this information in various places? (rather than just one set location?)</p>
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<p>Will depend on if you shoot raw or jpg. (card is helpful in certain aspects)<br>
You can further fine tune with an invert.<br>
More information on this website here:<br>
http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2008/12/white-balance-1.html</p>
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<p>Is there an advantage in using a larger white card such as whibal in conjunction with the colorchecker passport? (in setting or getting a better accurate white point)<br>
Or is the white patch and next to white patch on the passport sufficient?<br>
You'll either set the passport down at a close up scene or shot in front. (eg. handholding in front or tripod clip stand)<br>
(ot; what does photo.net think about adding emotion icons on their forums, livening jivening things)</p>
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<p>If you wanted the most color accuracy in each different scene.<br>
(eg. landscapes, events) Would you still rely on just the camera and lens built profiles?<br>
Or shoot with the card each and every time? (necessary?)<br>
These should all be raw shots with the colorchecker chart, if working with a raw workflow, correct?<br>
If shooting a distant landscape, would you just rely on the dng profile? As placing the card to subject is difficult. Or place the card in just the general light condition of the scene?<br>
Wouldn't inverting, finding and setting the black and white point be more accurate in this case?<br>
Xrite also writes about creating your own custom profile by shooting your own chart, due to the upgraded color in their patches.<br>
Is there a best way or correct ways to go about completing this?<br>
What are typical steps or procedures?<br>
If I include more or the most lighting condition profiles, does this result in a more color accurate rendition from the camera? (eg. fluorescent, daylight, halogen, shade)<br>
In getting a better (more accurate?) white balance from the passport, is it wise to also include a larger gray card? (eg. typical gray card, about the size of a business card) Xrite website also mentions about this.<br>
Are there notable differences in gray cards? Such as Robin Myers? Or will also third party type gray cards produce a accurate rendition? (eg. ebay gray cards)<br>
If UV light is the main damage towards the passport, what might be 2nd, 3rd, 4th or other deterrents? (oxygen? humidity? extreme heat or cold? certain common fumes?)<br>
Is it best to shoot passport or gray card in raw, in a raw workflow? Or does jpg also work?<br>
(passport should probably be in raw, as dng is needed)<br>
With regards to the gray card, what is the ideal camera settings when taking the shot?<br>
(if you shoot with centre weighted, then gray card should also match? same goes with evaluative or spot?) ISO is a free choice. (lower the better quality) Program or manual mode? Fill the card or what is the ideal percentage card should be in frame? (min. 10%?)</p>
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<p>Will there be (much?) benefits or differences in a raw workflow between using a colorchecker sg (semigloss) 140 patch card compared with a regular colorchecker passport?<br>
In a more crowded scene or event, is using the larger sg card practical? Could you hold card up at arms' length to photograph? Or what about (distant) landscape shots?<br>
Though most people will simply make profiles on their camera or lenses at the start with either products.<br>
When shooting raw files, should you use a jpg or raw when taking a pic of the colorchecker? (or will there be much difference? or as long as jpg is also the same colorspace as raw, such as rgb)<br>
Also, in getting a true (exact color) scene rendition, will a moving subject such as a person in a scene render the wb (and or true colors) compared with a static scene?<br>
(eg. you shoot a landscape or indoor scene with uniform lighting, where there is both a shadows dark point, and highlight white point, when you invert at processing time. Though if people come into the scene, with lighter or darker clothing, this changes the landscape or indoor scene overall wb and or perhaps true colors?)<br>
As an alternative, you can search for a uniform static area in which to first take your shot which will then give you a more precise wb? (to then apply on the rest of your shots, provided light remains the same, if this is important to you, such as documenting purposes vs fine art)<br>
Though if you switch to another scene, won't there be a different set of darkest shadow and white highlight point?<br>
This works at times, what about other scenes where there is jumble of movement, people, in a tight crop shot?<br>
Also when stitching shots, such as in a panorama. Which might work best?<br>
Taking a colorchecker shot? Or zooming back out or stepping further back from the scene to take a grander overall (use raw or jpg?) picture of your stitched shots? This way you can view the overall scene and process the wb. <br>
Most times will a correct wb also give the correct colors? (provided profiles are created either now or later on)</p>
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<p>If you want the lowest cleanest ISO, you can start with just increasing or adjusting the EV. (this in turn will, halve or lower your shutter speed or decrease your aperture, depending on which mode you're in, shutter or aperture, or choose whichever mode in manual mode.Though upping ISO is preferred in getting max info in highlight regions.</p>
<p>When doing this, (upping EV) you will have to decide what your optimum ISO, Aperture (depth of field), and shutter speed is according to your focal length, and intended overall picture effect. Too slow a shutter speed equals blur, too low an aperture means less dof.</p>
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<p>Gecko's hedge knows a speck on thrice form ledge.As each angle opens closes.<br>
As question eternal, will you demand supply, or supply demand.<br>
Limited conceals, ravish appeal, reveals to collectors. Price is set, you determine a print's worth.<br>
As another alternative, would an open limited print edition, with each sold print numbered and owner tracked sell just as well?<br>
Like limited, also with print number and authenticity document given.<br>
Future sales remain the course of the print's lifetime.<br>
Authenticity. Is a document, certificate 100% guaranteed? Or will forging introduce problems? Just as holograms can now be reproduced, So what are the new next steps, methods, techniques?<br>
Owner's face, or photo sent in to be included in the back of the matted, framed print? Then to be catalog, archive, bound, recorded.</p>
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<p>With a portrait gallery on a website, face visible, model release is required.What about events or in general public with visible faces? (is public more acceptable than private, without needing to use a release) Or (at times) feasible to photoshop sunglasses on them?</p>
<p>On a site should your gallery display 8 bit jpgs if marketing your business to a professional or commercial clientele or will they prefer all color corrected accurate 16 bit raw to jpgs? (srgb vs adobe rgb)This is just starting a website portfolio in promoting work, later on in actual work, might be best in accurate raw to jpg display if they deem this important.</p>
<p>Are there also methods or guidelines you use when (safe) uploading pics on your site?</p>
<p>Eg. you can invisible watermark with Digimarc; tracking them, keep pics at a certain size to limit theft or usage. Flash vs html .. spaceball 1 pixel gif.. (more a faster upload),<br>
As a photographer in business, what's a suggested timeline (or how often) to register copyright with office? (eg. after a certain amount of shoots, annually, or every 3 - 6 months?)</p>
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<p><em>Do we see things as they are?</em></p>
<p><em>Or as we are?<br /></em></p>
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<p>.. if real is the documentary pic you're after, then sure, the pic is ' good enough '.<br>
..a camera is like an instrument (eg. musical) with which you compose, shoot, edit, create, output to your heart's desire.. as there are varied types of music, there are also varied types of photography. from simple color n white balanced realistic documentary pics to fine art aesthetic pleasing decor pics.<br>
..pick your potion,</p>
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<p>Are there software or plugins that can record a picture file's transactions, such as in the metadata. <br>
(eg. number of times saved, edited, or printed) Could be a useful feature in future development.</p>
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<p>What's fastest raw image viewer on a mac? ACR? Other freeware or commercial software?<br>
As some new raw formats, (other than Canon, Nikon) take longer to load.<br>
mightalsowanttoaskcameramanufacturersaboutthis</p>
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<p>Monitor reviews tend to discuss their features, though how does a good quality monitor (nec, eizo) with their exclusive features specifically translate into a better finished print?</p>
<p>(compared with initial offerings such as a nec p221w)<br>
Color critical work, getting to precise pantone hue or tone is important in various professions.</p>
<p>What about artists that at times artistically alter colors in making art?</p>
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<p>What are some suggestions on good free websites with flash or html photo site templates?<br>
After downloading, what's proper way in transferring font, html, psd folders into your domain website? or step by step procedure? font folder has ttf file.<br>
Also might be a good idea in learning basic html if required in maintaining site, do you have suggested favorite bookmarks?</p>
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<p>when editing raw files from Canon/Olympus (cr2/orf files), I was wondering if a t42 thinkpad xga tft screen is adequate. (perhaps just in 8 bit editing?)<br>
if having these pics professionally printed/framed, should you risk editing in 8bit mode? or choose certain images (with histogram) mostly mid tones.<br>
or do you suggest a monitor upgrade if doing hdr, 16bit editing type work, or large film scanned files from MF/LF? I've heard a few value monitors mentioned such as:(is one particular a best choice?) (IPS or PVA panel?)<br>
*Dell 2007FP<br>
*Dell 2209WA (IPS Panel)<br>
* NEC P 221 (with spectra view soft, calibrator) or do you suggest another calibrator? (eg. eyeone display 2, spider 3?)<br>
* Samsung 245T (S-PVA panel)</p>
<p>what about a system to go with monitor? (mac industry standard? or build your own 64 bit windows based?)</p>
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<p>what are your thoughts on this particular color card on ebay? (called the color perfect card) I was thinking using this along with shooting a raw file, in getting more accurate color/white balance from the start.<br>
their response in answer to my questions:</p>
<p>his response in answer to my sent questions: <br /> <br /> "Thank you for your interest in Color Perfect Cards. They were designed and are manufactured by CDI Commercial Photography, our company. Yes, they are laminate and water resistant. They resist moisture but they are not designed to be submerged. Color Perfect Cards have been in use for five years are being used by amateaurs and professionals world wide. There are several photography school in the USA and around the world that use Color Perfect Cards. If you follow the White Balance instruction for your camera using the Color Perfect Card you will get good white balance. You can also use it by taking a picture of the card in each different lighting setting. The when preparing to print, if you have a calibrated monitor you can match the CMYK/RGB color on the Color Perfect Card to the image taken in each lighting situation and know that your image color is correct."<br /> <br /> "Again thank you for your interest in Color Perfect Cards. All image source data is on the front side of the Color Perfect Card. RGB and CMY is on the right. White is in the center with 18% gray and black (K) is on the left. A gray scale runs across the bottom of the card. The work of many professional photographers is put into print so the CMYK is important for them and their clients. When following your camera's white balance instructions zoom in close on the entire card. When the white balance is correct the color will be very close. Exact color match for catalog work etc. may require additional adjustment. To get absolute color match everytime requires a Kelvin Tempature sensor such as we use at CDI for critical color. The overall quality of white balance is greatly dependant upon the camera you use. We are unable to release our client list. We are not allowed to release any names nor do we ever sell any client lists. Sorry! I would suggest zooming in closely on the entire card for doing white balance. For doing general color matching I would only zoom in moderately, leaving ample image with the colors you are trying to match. Doing prints of exact color matches requires that your computer monitor is accurately caliberated."</p>
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<p>if your pic is a landscape or still life, then over exposing can work.<br>
as you get more detail and info from the shadows. (resulting in a bigger raw file)<br>
you should watch out for whites (reds?) clipping channel. or you can bracket 1ev, or 1/3, or 1/2 ev.<br>
if there is wind or movement, overexposing will give you a slower shutter speed. so match your iso, aperture, and shutter to the scene. use tripod if you prefer.</p>
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<p>in raw processing, about how many stops (or approximate) can highlights be salvaged? 1/3 stop? - 1 stop? are there certain color channels that can be restored? or all?</p>
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<p>you should be fine, as rule of thumb is on average two stops per raw file.</p>
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<p>so on average, how long does it take you to bracket your images? (do you set it by hand manual? or take rapid bracket sequence? 3 shots is common bracketing number)<br>
what do you find is a common EV steps needed within a given day? eg. sunset needs 6-7 EV steps? in bright sunlight with high contrast between sky/foreground?<br>
I find I can bracket three EV steps in a row within a second, then switch to a different EV in bracketing another three EV steps. So that gives 6 EV steps. Not sure if I should bracket another individual +3 EV step, when I can just push the +2 raw in a +3. What do you think, is it worth another individual +3 shot?<br>
imagine the amount of raw shots on a panorama hdr, typical 4-8 shots to be stitched, then each shot needs 3 or more shots in covering dynamic range. will be an interesting pic though.</p>
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<p>when it comes to hdr merging all your pics, what final output differences is there from (eg) seven raw pics representing 7 stops exposure vs 3 bracketed raw pics. (where you can also pull up or down in getting your 7 pictures worth exposure difference) I'm thinking with seven separate raw pics, output is perhaps overall sharper. has there been tests on these differences?</p>
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<p>which will be a better buy, between slik sprint pro or manfrotto 785B? or if using a longer telephoto lens 200-600mm, best to upgrade, heavier tripod? 3lb, 4lb, 5lb, (is this still within hikable comfort carrying) such as Bogen 3021 or Bogen 190?</p>
<p>what happens when you do raise center column on sprint pro? does this go from 50 to 64"? what's minimum packing height with ball head on? you said this won't fit within daypack? (or backpack?) larger backpacks are 30"+.</p>
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Do I need a new monitor?
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
<p>If you're editing mostly tonal range. (sharpening, noise reduction, contrast, setting points in fine tuning wb) Is a monitor (compared with a notebook screen) a huge improvement. Or a better justified purchase if more adjusting the colors within an image?<br>
<br />I can go both ways, (including creative in future), though at the moment, I'm interested in printing the original file colors. </p>