luc_moreau

<p>I have a fully functional T60 and it's my preferred FD body. Lighter and/or more capable than all other ones I know of or own. I wouldn't try it underwater of course but for hiking, the weight advantage is clear. The AV-1 is very poor in comparison (lacking good display in viewfinder, DOF preview, manual mode...) and probably not any more sturdy than this thing. Oh and the batteries are cheap and easy to find and last for soooo long. Unless you're allergic to plastic, that's the camera to have...</p>

<p>Just lift the rewind crank a little more. Should unlock the door at the back of the camera.<br>

While you were shooting the end of the film, you might have notice the rewind crank spinning while you were cocking the shutter? Otherwise there is definitely no film in it. Especially if you can't feel any tension/resistance from the turning the rewind crank. I guess you're turning it clockwise?</p>

<p>Just got a FTB(n) as well, and the old battery was still in there, apparently it had started to leak a bit. I cleaned the battery compartment using Q-tips and replaced with a new 625A. No joy, needle stayed down. Then I removed the battery again and used a small screwdriver to scratch the electrical contact in the bottom of the compartment. It had some corrosion on it (not immediately visible but enough to isolate the contact from the battery). After that it performs like a charm. I don't think you need to care a lot about the voltage difference, if you shoot negatives (I don't use slide film personally). I'll get my test roll from the lab in a couple of days but the meter readings looked quite appropriate during my shooting test walk.</p>

<p>Just received one in the mail today... agree about the most difficult camera to open in history. Mine also has a problem, the winding knob/lever does not seem to "engage" correctly in the place it should (inside the camera) leading to somewhat difficult winding/cocking. It has a tendency so "skip" unless I push vertically (top down) at the same time as winding in order to keep it engaged where it should. Is there something broken/worn inside do you know?</p>

<p>The 199A has a built-in sensor so it will work on any camera (settings are manual as described above but the sensor will compensate for closer/lighter subjects by shortening the flash duration automatically). This sensor should also permit automatic exposure when bouncing on the ceiling or nearby walls. You don't want to put the 199a on the "M" position otherwise this sensor is disabled and you have to compensate yourself (setting the aperture on each shot depending on distance etc...)<br>

I'm trying to use it on my Pentax DSLR and it works - but for some reason it fires only once on my K-m / K2000 body. I have to power off/power on the 199a in order to get it fire on the next picture... not that practical I admit. I have no idea what causes this problem. I also have a speedlite 420ex that doesn't behave like that but I don't know how to use the sensor (if any) on the 420ex.</p>