alonzo_e

<p>I've got to imagine the SAKAR was a good battery, but don't know if I could have lived with the empty battery signals or any battery power meter..</p>

<p>Good luck on the replacement.. This is Canon trying to get an exclusive market..</p>

<p>Believe me Ellie. You cannot go wrong with the system Canon has proposed wether it is the 50d or the T1i. In the end it all comes down to the glass when it comes to making that perfect image. </p>

<p>Like I stated before the T1i is not a piece of junk but it is still no comparison to the 50d, regardless of <em>whatever</em> else you hear..</p>

<p>I would compromise with the bride and remove some of the images she deemed too personal and take them down. As an aside, you're not obligated to do so but you want to have good relations with pas clients. I wouldn't take all of them down but might scale back the set if possible..</p>

<p>I would sell the 28-135 and get the 70-200. Perhaps the 2.8 non-is model. This will be very useful when you're shooting weddings and overall portraits..</p>

<p>The 24-105 could be used for group shots..</p>

<p>I guess the saga continues.. Let's look into what Canon has to say about their own equipment here.. The T1i is NOT considered to be a professional camera. Not by Canon (call them) and definitely not recognized by CPS as professional equipment. This is not me.. It's Canon..<br>

The 50d has a clearly superior RAW presence here. As a matter of fact dpreview even points this fact out. Not that low noise performance is everything but when it comes to the overall quality of the camera and what it can deliver, low noise performance is clearly superior in the 50d.</p>

<p>Furthermore, with the RAW issues, low noise performance aside (dpreview agrees) and the fact that dpreview points out that the camera is more 'plasticy' points to it's entry level look / feel. Not that it's bad but make no mistake about it, a T1i is NOT in the same league as a 50d..<br>

Also, not that I said the consumer lenses within Canon's arsenal aren't great, but the L series lenses are clearly superior with regard to low light photography. Some have debated over the 85mm lenses from Canon, and some believe the 1.8 (consumer) version is just as good as the 1.2 (L series) version. I have both and will say that the two are not even in the same ballpark. As far as build quality, color, contrast, and sharpness the 1.2 literally runs circles around the consumer (1.8) version. The price of the two are way different 'tho..<br>

William W, my knowledge of Canon and it's professional products is pretty extensive and maybe a course in <strong>FACTS</strong> would work for you. Never be afraid of the truth.. Many media organizations use Rebels and I've heard several other photographers say more than once that the Rebel 'feels like a toy'..</p>

<p>Perhaps WW should bone up on the facts and leave the discussion of manners and civility alone in the presence of his lack of knowledge..</p>

<p>I would get a feel for their budget. If the budget is lower than you are willing to go, you will need to consider the benefits of getting the job, etc. These days and with this economy people are charging top dollar for almost everything but only a slim number of people are actually getting it. <br>

Ask anyone who contributs pictures for a magazine..</p>

<p>Boy, it seems that much of what is written on the Internet is true, but the comparison of the 50d and the T1i here is nothing but rubbish..<br>

The 50d would produce MUCH better photos in lower light than the T1i would. As a matter of fact the two cameras are not even in the same field as far as image quality and overall durability with respect to lower light. The T1i has a mostly plastic body where the 50d has a mostly alloy body. <br>

Anywhoo.. The first priority of any photographer is to determine the type of photography that YOU want to do and seek out individuals that do good work in that area. Most of them are usually pretty open about the equipment they use to achieve their results.. Then, make your decisions on what types of equipment to purchase and what some of the pros and cons are in multiple approaches.. I would recommend you to get the best quality lenses that you can afford straight away. There are too many Best Buy photographers out there that constantly struggle with taking pictures merely because of a cheap lens. Best Buy does sell lower end cameras but there's no L series lenses anywhere in the store.. <br>

I hope this helps clarify the misconception of the differences between the 50d and the T1i..<br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>You may be better off going to a studio and getting the pictures taken. In order to pull this off you would probably need 3 lights, 2 for the subject and one to wash out the background. Strobes would be better here.<br>

Alternatively if you're on a budget hot lights aren't too expensive and you could get a 2 head, 1000 watt job light kit from Lowes (maybe 2 of them) and illuminate from there..</p>

<p>You might check out the Gary Fong Whale Tail. I have the Reporter version and it works pretty well..</p>

<p> </p>

<p>With a D40 you are going to have to use some kind of flash. I would opt for a flash unit on low and a real long exposure using your 50mm. I would set everything on manual (including the flash) and work the flash up from the smallest power setting and the camera set to expose at least 1/3 of a second. Oh, and you must use a tripod..</p>

<p>You should probably do a search. Alien Bees have been covered in some great detail here and many other places around the web. The Vagabond is merely electricity that can be used remotely. All AB's have an optical slave.</p>

<p>Dumb question here: If you have Profoto's why not just get additional units?</p>

<p>+1 on what Matt said.<br>

I use the Kodak system and have 2 8500's and 1 9810. This system really works well and the prints come out lovely.</p>

<p>Like others have stated I would first make sure that you have lost images.. Also, why did you not copy ALL of the images onto your computer instead of leaving just those 30? Anyway, that's water under the bridge..<br>

I would also consider a professional recovery service if you cannot get the images back on your own. The wedding party will probably be more receptive if you can produce a bill stating that the images are not recoverable. Good luck.</p>

 

<p>I do 50% at the booking. This reserves the date and makes the contract mutually binding. I have written contracts and received partial payments (could not pay 50%) but I warn them that the date is still open until that 50% point is reached. In my contract this is called the retainer and is non-refundable since I have taken that date off of my schedule.<br>

The rest is due before the wedding.</p>

One stop of light will NEVER make up for subject motion within IS, so you should not even consider the f:4 lens for your application. Depending upon your budget it would be beter to get the 70-200 2.8 instead of the 70-200 f:4 IS. Never underestimate the power of light especially with one stop being twice as much..

<p>So, Michael would you get hired by the agency??</p>

<p>You definitely need studio flashes. Using hot lights only adds to the amount of ambient light on the subject. Strobes are a totally different beast here.<br>

While you are using the hot lights you may want to make some adjustments in your ISO to get a decent shutter speed of say 1/125..</p>

<p>Small steps work best for this. First of all you WILL bring a bunch of attention to yourself if you go into a not-so-good neighborhood with a camera and the folks there don't know you. If you have access to a car this would be the way to go about it. Remember though a car makes for a really big target should someone take exception to your picture taking.<br>

Bottom line, it's probably not a good idea, but good luck..</p>

 

<p>I have several Kodak printers. I have 2 - 8500's and 1 - 9810. They all print on 8x10 (TRUE 8x10, believe there was another printer that was 9.8 inches or 0.2 inches short). The printers are very reliable and my customers say they prefer the 8x10 sheet. If a 5x7 is needed I use a photo pkg within Photoshop to provide wallets along with the 5x7. This has been quite the money maker for me as you sell the prints by the sheet.<br>

Also, the pictures come out quickly and are waterproof. You might try looking through this thread as I have mentioned this a short time ago. There may be more information..</p>

<p>Not really but for me I use 1/60 as a benchmark for handholding. Anything slower usually causes issues either with my hands or the subject movement. 1/125 is really where I shoot most times. <br>

It's your preference here..</p>

<p>Ditto what was said. I would focus on the multiple off camera lighting setup. <br>

For many of my shots I use studio strobes and npw have a few Metz model 45 strobes to bounce off the ceiling as well.</p>

 

<p>High speed primes is the answer here. They let in large amounts of light and can keep your shutter speed respectable. You can also use a meduim ISO (1600) depending upon your camera for the exposure as well. One thing you see many using is remote lighting as well. You can usually get pretty creative at a reception..</p>

<p>Dye sub would be the only way to go for photo quality.</p>

<p>I would handily recommend the Kodak series of dye-sub printers.<br>

The 8500 and 1400 series are older single sheet feed units but work very well. The 9810 is a roll fed unit that can print 200 pics without stopping to reload. The potential for money you can make using dye-sub printers is astronomical! The printers are continuous tone at 300 or 314 dpi, and the prints are waterproof the moment they are ready and print times are very fast. Some folks like the smaller printers but the printers mentioned here are all 8x10 compatible. <br>

Oh, forgot to mention that when the picture is printed it automatically is waterproof and will maintain the color / sharpness underwater for an extended period of time. Try that with an inkjet.... </p>

<p>Sunpak makes one that is designed for video but will work nicely with your still camera. You can also find it at your local Best Buy for around $70. <br>

Believe it reaches to something like 7 feet. Make sure you have plenty of room, tho..</p>