paul_ong1

<p>Charles, thanks for the tip. If I do disassemble it and need to deal with separation, then I know what to do. I do have an older Carl Zeiss Jena that has a potential problem, so that may be my first effort.</p>

<p>Erie, have not had a chance to remove the lens groups. Busy with other things, including taking and processing photos this weekend. Yes, there is considerable amount of dust inside, and there are water or chemical marks, along with some cleaning scratches. As some point, I will disassemble, clean and paint over the Schnerideritis. I am using the Componon-S as a lens on a new digital hybrid, which uses a Century Graphic and a Sony NEX. Probably only go down to f/8, f/11 at the most with the 135mm, because of diffraction on the small sensor. Below is a link to that project. At that time, was using an 80mm Schneider Componon-S. (Nice shot, like the tonality.)</p>

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<p>Oops, wrong photo</p>

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<p>Second shot.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi all,</p>

<p>Thanks for the feedback. Dave, yes the $58 Schneider from ebay, and I agree with Erie and Michael that this is certainly not a problem worth much of my time and effort. If the seller had told me about the prior to or during the bidding, then I would have factored that in, and likely gotten it a slightly lower price. </p>

<p>But, what bothers me is that the seller failed to disclose this. One of the risks of shopping ebay is not knowing what one is buying, and overcoming that risk depends on honest and full disclosure from the seller. I can understand if there are unobservable problems, but this is not the case here. Ebay requires a considerable amount of self-policing, which requires buyers do not speak up. So, I guess it is not just the small dollar amount but a larger principle, at least in my opinion. Hard to get off that "high horse."</p>

<p>The good thing is that the seller quickly acknowledged the problem and offer to rectify it. I appreciate that response from him. I guess I wrote him more out of irritation than anything else.</p>

<p>The problem is so obvious, and I am attaching a couple of photos, one straight on, and the other from the side. The second shows considerable internal reflection of the specs because they are reproduced on the surface of internal lenses. That is worrisome to me, particularly since I intend to use this as a "taking" lens rather than an enlarging lens.</p>

<p>I will follow Joe's advice and try some DYI, plus ask for a small partial refund just to do my part in ebay self-policing.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I very recently bought a Schneider Componon-S 135mm enlarger lens. The seller failed to mentioned that it has a severe case of Schneideritis, and that will cause some problem because I plan to use it as a close distance lens on a hybrid camera. (Light will be coming in from the front thus hitting the white/silver specs, causing some internal reflection. Less of a problem if the light comes in from the rear if used for enlarging.)</p>

<p>I don't want to go through the hassle of returning, plus I can probably use the lens by closing it down.</p>

<p>I wrote the seller, and he agree to provide a partial refund.</p>

<p>Can anyone tell me what percent of the cost I should request? Thanks.</p>

<p>David, I agree with you that finding an older lens in good condition is very challenging, and aging problems could effectively render one ineffective despite its original potential. Ebay descriptions are often less than accurate. I love it when the seller says or replies that "I am not camera expert so I cannot say." This hold even when asked specific questions that would only require looking through the lens. Somewhat evasive, and makes shopping on ebay a risk, although I have gotten some good things on ebay.</p>

<p>Dan, thank you for your comments, and thank you very much for the links. Looks very informative, and I have downloaded the PDF version so I can study it in more detail when I have time. One thing that struck me is your examples and illustrations adapting so many different types of lenses to the Pacemaker, which I assume would also apply to the Century. You have opened my eyes to other alternatives beyond just the lenses originally made for 6x9 folding cameras, and have raised some serious questions about the relative strengths of the lenses I have considered. I have to rethink and regroup my strategy, so more reading and researching. </p>

<p>Brain, had the same problem with the link, and I just replaced "2-lens" with "1-lens". There is also a link to a PDF for the whole series. Dan has provided some interesting read. One of the great things about the internet is the ability to access such information (albeit, some work and judgement are required to evaluate the quality and reliability of the information).</p>

<p>Tom,<br>

Thanks for the suggestion. The lenses I am listing are those I can find on ebay right now. Among the lenses listed for the Century Graphic, my preference is the Kodak Ektar 105mm f/3.7 Heliar. There is one listed on ebay, but it is way beyond my budget. The seller wants $395! I am staying away from the Graflex Graflar or Trioptar, which appears to perform poorly. The Wollensak Raptar or Optar seems to be decent, but not sure if it is up there with the Xenotar. But the Raptar/Optar may be cheaper. <br>

Is the 135mm Raptar a MF or LF lens? My concern is fitting it on the Century Graphic.</p>

<p>David, thanks for the suggestion. Do the Schneider Symmar/Symmar-S MF or LF? I have a couple of LF Schneider lenses for 4x5, and there is no way to fit them on the Century. No Kodak Sterling currently listed on ebay.</p>

 

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<p>Dan, thanks. Will make the Xenotar my top priority, but depends on the price.<br /> Tom, thanks for the info on the Anastigmat Specials. As for my choice, it is based on the belief that most enlarging lenses are not good for distant objects. From what I understand, they are optimized for the distance associated with the range of their print magnification. That certainly is the case for my Schneider Componon-S 80mm, good for near distance but not so great for far distance. Hence, the search for the 6x9 format lenses, which is the same size as the Century Graphic. (In my experience, enlarger lenses are also good for high magnification macro work when reversed.) You can see the hybrid camera at<br>

<p>Just found another,<br>

Kodak Anastigmat Special f/4.5 101mm, which is not the top of the line Ektar but understand it might be nearly as good in the center.<br>

Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Looking for some advice and information on three possible lenses. I need a lens for a hybrid digital camera that uses the Century Graphic for some limited technical movement. Currently using an 80mm Schneider enlarging lens, which is fine for near distance. But need another lens for distance around 100-135mm, and has to be small and light enough to fit on the Century (LF lenses are out). I have spotted three possible alternatives on ebay:<br>

Zeiss f/3.5 tessar off a Zeiss Ikon Super<br>

Schneider Xenotar Linof Select f/2.8<br>

Schneider Xenar f/4.5 from a Kodak Vollenda 6x9<br>

I did a quick search of this website and google have have some basic information, but any addition insights would be greatly appreciated. So, any information on the relative quality of these lenses? The digital back (a Sony NEX 5) uses the center part of the image circle, so the softness of the edge is not important. Don't mind a faster lens, but not critical.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Michael, Dan and Joe,</p>

<p>Yes, I am open to Rodenstock enlarger lenses; however, from what I have read and heard, I think that enlarger lenses are not the way to go, at least most of the good standard ones. I did start looking for a Boyer Saphir BX, and found one on ebay outside the US, but very expensive. This is a low budget project, but I will keep looking for it now and then. I don't know much about copy lenses, but I suspect that they have the same issues for distant focusing. Could be wrong. I am intrigued by the Schneider Xenars, which were also mentioned at another forum. I will put it on my "hunt list". I am also looking for older 6x9 size fold downs with 105mm Tessar. With a growing list of options, I suspect I should find something reasonable in a few weeks.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone.</p>

<p>Forgot the photo of the 45G.</p>

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<p>Paul, thanks for the suggestions. Don't need a shutter because there is one on the Sony NEX. I am hoping that there is a usable enlarger lens, or a lens for the 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 format, which would be about the right size and weight.</p>

<p>Dan, thank you very much for the information. Exactly the type of details I need, but sorry to hear that most of the enlarger lenses are so lousy. I will try looking for the Saphir/Zircon, and also the Ektar (which is ready on my list of possible options, but good to get more information from you). Will also look for the Raptar/Optar and Graftar. All on ebay because this is a low-cost project.</p>

<p>Yes, the Century Graphic's movements are limited. One of the reasons to get a longer focal length is to get the front standard on the folding bed. While limited, I find the tilt to be helpful, and I used it this weekend for some photos (camera rotated 90 degrees so the tilt becomes swing), which are posted on a flickr site. (See in particular "GS450GA Suzukimatic 1," at<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9476880@N02/<br>

The hybrid was very effective is rotating the focus plane so I can capture the entire name plate.</p>

<p>I also have a Toyo 45G that I have modified to use the Sony with Mamiya MF lenses, a setup that has the most flexibility, which you can see below. However, this rig is heavy, so my experiment with the Century Graphic.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I am looking for a 100mm to 135mm lens that I can use on a Century Graphic that I have modified to accept a digital camera, the Sony NEX 5. Another thread suggested Mamiya Press 100mm f2.8 or Zeiss 105mm Tessar, and I have been looking for them. So far, the ones that I found are not cheap. My alternative is to use some good MF enlarger lenses, and I am experimenting with the 80mm Schneider Componon-S. At infinity, the bellows does not extend out much, thus making it difficult to use the movements. So, I would like to try a longer focal length enlarger lens that can perform decently when focusing at a distance. Any suggestions? Also, any suggestions on a good, light and small MF lens that would fit the Century besides the ones listed above?</p>

<p>Below is an image with description of the hybrid camera. You can see a larger version of that photo plus some examples of how the camera is used at the following:<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9476880@N02/sets/72157626713726633/" target="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/9476880@N02/sets/72157626713726633/</a><br>

You can see previous hybrids at:<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9476880@N02/collections/72157625831465221/" target="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/.../photos/9476880@N02/collections/72157625831465221/</a><br>

Thanks.</p>

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<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=587835">Joseph Wisniewski</a> mentioned that "it is no trouble to design a teleconverter that increases the backfocus, the distance from the rear lens element to the film or sensor." I wonder if such an converter exists? Is the V-NF converted such a creature? It looks like a separate converter attached to a teleconverter. I realize that there may be a problem with a small image circle, but for my purpose, that is ok. Thanks.</p>

<p>Jim,<br>

Thanks. Sent you an email with the info.</p>

<p>Q.G.<br>

Thanks. I must be doing something wrong. I typed in "mamiya 1000s exploded view" but only saw either full camera manual or service manual. I just need the exploded diagram, not a full manual. This is for one of my side projects, so am hoping not to spend $25. Paid less than $5 for the 645 body.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I have an old Mamiya M645 1000S that I want to disassemble. Does anyone have an exploding diagram of the camera body? Tried searching this forum and google, but nada. Thanks.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

This has been a very useful thread, including the discussion about the general challenges making panoramas with DSLRs. I agree with Joseph about the difficulties of attaching a DSLR to a 4x5. Certainly something like the Nikon D3 or D2x would introduce problems because of weight, as well as some other technical issues (e.g., resolution, CA from film lenses). However, I do think it is doable with lighter weight DSLR or even better the new mirrorless like the Sony NEX. With the right mount, the load is less than the ground-glass back with a film insert, and the center of gravity is better located with the NEX. So, I think that the rear standard can handle these attachments. I have done several large panos using a Toyo 45G, both with a D70 and NEX 5. Below are links to examples. Even thought these are cropped, they are quite large.<br>

With the D70

With the NEX 5

Good luck.</p>

<p>Zach, the rear standard on a 4x5 will allow you to move along the two axes (rise/fall and shift). As for the cost of the project, shop carefully. My last Toyo (I have three: one for film, one for the hybrid, and one for parts) was about $150, with lens board, film holder and bellows. Had a minor problem in the focusing rail that I fixed. My cheapest Mamiya lens was $10, most expensive $90. They were "as is", but worked perfectly fine for the hybrid. Just make sure that the aperture works and the lens is clean. Add another $50 to $75 for misc parts. The secret is to shop carefully on ebay, KEH and craigslist. Good luck.</p>

 

<p>Allen is correct that the ideal approach is to move the camera along the film plane rather than shift/rise the lens. In practice, I am not sure how much of a difference it makes, and certainly software are able to stitch despite parallax and image curvature. Sometimes not, which has been my experience. That is one reason I started experimenting with mounting a DSLR and later a mirrorless compact on the back of a large-format camera, which produce the closest thing to apparent seamless or glitchless final panoramas. But, the hybrid camera is a much, much more difficult piece of equipment to use than a DSLR with a T/S lens. (I have the Nikon 24mm tilt/shift.) Moreover, the digital cameras out resolve all but the most expensive LF and MF lenses, although overall I think one can get more usable large images from the hybrid because down rez'ing recaptures some sharpness. So, there are trade offs to each approach.</p>

<p>I either cut the right size hole in an existing lens board or make a custom wood one. I have made my own recess board, but you don't need one with the RB67 lens, just a bag bellows.</p>

<p>Zack,</p>

<p>I used the Mamiya MF lens because of its retro-focusing design. I have problems with using my 90mm Schneider LF lens. Also, older LF lenses do not generally have the optical resolution needed for digital capture. There is very little movements. The long focal-plane to flange distance of the RB67 makes it ideal for using wide angle lenses (e.g. the C 50mm). I am able to use the back standard to cover over 7cm across for panorama, more for MF that covers a 6x9 area. This is the better approach because the lens does not move, thus does not introduce any parallax. The C 50mm seems sharp enough at both the center and edge, but it seems to suffer from field curvature. I need to experiment with the front floating lens to correct some aberration, which seems to have a different characteristics for digital than film.</p>

<p>In theory, the 6x7 area can produce a stitched image of 160mb+ with the Sony NEX. I have done panoramas vertically and horizontally, so I know it is possible to produce such a large image. It just takes some work.</p>

<p>Good luck on your efforts.</p>

<p>Zach,<br>

I have been experimenting with attaching a Sony NEX to a Toyo 45G. You can see both the current rig and resulting photos (including a large panorama) using a Mamiya 50mm lens at:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9476880@N02/sets/72157626112111247/<br>

Earlier configuration with a Nikon D70 at:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9476880@N02/sets/72157621949266496/<br>

Good luck on your project.</p>

<p>Richard, Allen and Friedeman. Thanks for pointing me to the Plaubels. Wonderful looking piece of equipment (old Mercedes line), but unfortunately the only one currently on ebay has an asking price of $699. The Gavin is an option, but giving priority to a folding camera. Hopefully I will find something workable on ebay or craigslist. I have learned from past mistakes to not act on impulse, so I will take my time. But now I have a good list of options.</p>