Jump to content

larry_norris1

Members
  • Posts

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by larry_norris1

  1. I can't see in my references that the Nikon 200-400 lens took a drop in filter or if it is a 39mm or a 52mm. I have a Nikon 600 5.6 that takes a 39mm drop in filter and the Kirk KP-2 is the one that works on it. Kirk no longer makes the filter so I bought mine second- hand. It is geared by an external thumb wheel so you and change the polarizer position while it is in the camera. Hope this helps.
  2. You cannot get an emotional response on a subject in which the viewer cannot identify emotionally. I believe it was Galen Rowell who wrote an article on this which appeared in "Outdoor Photographer" five years or so ago. Admittedly, landscapes are tougher than animals but

    there are plenty of subjects that do it. In keeping with Bob's subject, I'm going to try and include a photo that when it is shown as a slide, you can hear the group respond to it. If you can't feel the emotion in your subject as you make the photo, perhaps you are not taking photos of the proper subject for you.

    DistantCousins.jpeg

  3. If you are shooting 50 ASA film, I can't imagine having to use a 10 stop filter to get the look you're after. If it's bright enough to need a filter that dense, then it is much too bright to get a good photo. I have shot a large number of the waterfalls in that area and usually use a 2 stop ND and almost always a polarizer to get the look I'm after. You will find that the more water that is flowing over the falls, the shorter the exposure time to prevent the white water from losing all detail. On some falls with a smaller flow in the woods I have had exposures up to 20 seconds with the above filters. You might want to consider a wider lens in order to take in all of the falls in some locations.

     

    Good luck.

  4. There have been many threads discussing the various types of tripods

    and which are the most stable, particularly for long lens. This

    morning at the Venice Rookery I saw what appeared to be the ultimate

    in stability. Someone had a 10'-12' aluminum step ladder with a 2x4

    and a ball head mounted on the top step. On this was his 600mm lens

    and camera. It was a Canon lens and perhaps the IS could handle the

    vibrations inherent in that rig but it would be interesting to see

    the results of that shoot. It's also a lot of rig to haul around for

    a slightly different view. Just thought I'd pass that along in case

    someone else might like to try it.

  5. It looked to me as if the clear winner, if one could use that term for the quality of some of the photos, is Photoshop. I imagine that sooner or later, I will be forced to those ends but in the meanwhile

    it will be Nikons and film. The contest has always had some photos that have you wondering what you are missing but this years selections have raised those questions to a higher level--or maybe its just old age.

     

    Happy Holidays

  6. I have made many mid-roll changes with my N90s and they all have been made by rewinding the film and then using a leader retriever to reuse the remainder of the film. I would use your suggested method only if I was looking to screw up my camera. When you replace the roll, set the ASA dial at its highest reading,hold your hand over the end of the lens which has a lens cap in place, close your viewfinder blind and push the shutter until it reads the proper number. Don't forget to reset your ASA to the proper setting.

     

    Good luck,

    Larry

  7. Last week the Venice Rookery had a lot of nest building being done by the Blue Herons with the males doing a lot of flying in and out with materials. I managed to burn a couple of rolls for a couple of keepers of flight shots. There are a few anhingas nesting with young that are almost as large as the parents with their white fleece overcoats on. The rookery is always good, it will just be better in a couple of months.

     

    Larry Norris

×
×
  • Create New...