dave_leonard

<p>I know it isn't as precise as what's on a view camera, but it does work on the cheap. I have somewhere in my files some beautiful scenic shots taken using horizontal swing with ground glass focusing. It just takes a bit of patience to get the focusing right. I would never do this on real nice conditioned Graphic, but it works well enough on a beater.<br>

Dave</p>

<p>Please excuse my dSLR's auto focus getting the wrong thing in focus. I didn't notice until after I had everything put away.<br /> Use the dremal tool to grind away the flange that holds the front unit on the rails, then grind away an arc on the back side of the plate that runs under the rail's L shape. Take off a little at a time and try it out. Thaking off too much will cause it to come off the rail easy.<br /> I've done this mod to two 2x3 Pacemakers, a Century and a 4x5 so far. It works good. Sorry, but I can't get the other movements that Cliff got out of his Busch Pressman.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p><img src="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/hurdy_gurdyman/IMGP1075-pacemakerMod-1.jpg?t=1237828596" alt="" width="600" height="402" /> <img src="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/hurdy_gurdyman/IMGP1074-pacemakerMod-2.jpg?t=1237828665" alt="" width="600" height="402" /></p>

<p><img src="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/hurdy_gurdyman/IMGP1075-pacemakerMod-1.jpg" alt="" /> <br /> Bruce,</p>

<p>You can easily add horizontal swing to a Pacemaker using just a Dremal Tool and small grinding bit. It's non reversible, though.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>My K200D has a very tight memory card fit. I find that if I push it all the way in and let it snap out that it comes out a bit farther and makes it easier to grasp the edges. Better too tight than having it fall out, I guess...<br>

Dave</p>

<p>Oops, I posted above to get the Anaston lens. That should have read Anastar, which is an Ektar (Tessar-type) clone. The Anaston appears to come as either a three or four element lens. Here's an interesting read on it.<br>

http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Kodak_lenses<br>

My experience with the 101 f= 4.5 Anastar is that it is an excellent lens.<br>

Dave</p>

<p>Concerning using 120 film in a Tourest II, if you are determined enough, it can be done. I used a Dremel tool to hollow out the body on each end and made a wider blade on the take-up spool spindle. It's a snug fit but works perfectly. These cameras are very inexpensive (especially with a Kodet lens, or whatever it's called), so it is worthwhile to pick up one cheap and try this. If you make it work, by another one with the Anaston lens (excellet lens, BTW) and swap lenses.<br>

Dave</p>

<p>The Pax is now spoken for.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>Seeing the post about a Pax reminded my that I've had a Pax M2 sitting on the shelf for years. Nothing works on it. The rangefinder doesn't seem to be hooked up, the aperature is stuck on f-16 and the shutter is stuck open. The film advance seems to work OK. Cosmetically, the camera is beautiful. It has an almost new looking never-ready case with it (original). Anyone who might want to try and fix this beauty can have it. I'm not quite steady enough anymore for this kind of work. Send me an email. Be sure and put "Pax" in the email header.<br /> Dave</p>

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=502260">Jeff Adler</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" title="Frequent poster" /> </a> , Feb 07, 2009; 02:50 p.m.<br>

Many nice cameras were mentioned. The problem is that most of them are pretty old so you will need to spend another $100 to have them overhauled. They may function without an overhaul but the shutter speeds will not be too accurate and you may have light leaks. Cosina made many SLR cameras under the Vivitar name. These are much more recent and more likely to be in working order. I have two V4000S bodies and two V4000 models. These cameras are usually found with a 50/1.8 or a 35-70 zoom. They have Pentax K mounts. I bought some of these for $25 with a lens. An overhauled Minolta SRT-101 or Nikkormat FTN/FT2 or Pentax K1000 would probably outlast a Vivitar V4000/S but the Vivitar has a more sensitive meter, a higher top shutter speed and is much lighter.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I agree with this. if you are not trying for a prestigious collectable, then a Vivitar may be perfect for you. I have a Vivitar V2000 w/35-70mm zoom that has a top speed of 1/2000 and a simple lED light meter. It's light weight and has a feel that is just right. I use mine regularly.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2319051">>Markus Berndt</a> , Jan 31, 2009; 12:25 p.m.</p>

<p>I have to agree that the C33 is quite heavy. After using it for a couple of weeks, I just now picked up my Rolleicord Va again, and boy does that one feel light in comparison. However, the weight is not as much of an issue for me, since I am using one of those really broad neck straps. If I ever get into large format photography, I might have to start looking at an ATV, though... The only gripe I have is the type 1 waist level finder. The back flap is a bit fragile and bends easily, as I like to walk around with the finder open. Perhaps I should look for a later type finder that has struts.<</p>

<p>Markus,</p>

<p>If the substantial weight of the C33 gets to you but you want to keep using this wonderful system, consider getting a C220 body. It is much lighter (not an awfully lot heavier than your Rolleicord). You only give up the fast wind/self cocking feature and the parallex mask in the viewfinder.</p>

<p>BTW, many 4x5 cameras weigh less than a C33. ;)</p>

<p>Dave :)</p>

<p>Great pics Markus! The detail is incredible and composition is excellent. The Mamiya C series TLR cameras are a personal favorite of mine. I have a C2 and a C 220, which, along with my Speed Graphic Pacemaker 23, are my most used medium format cameras. The 80mm chrome lens is one I have and does wonderful pictures. It's both sharp and has a certain 3-D look to it that I love. One of my two favorite lenses (the other being a 101/f=4.5 Ektar for my Pacemaker). I also have the Sekor 180 telephoto, which is a very nice lens, also.<br>

Now I feel the urge to get out and drag the old Mamiya with me and do some shooting. If only the wind chill wasn't down around 0 degrees F...<br>

Dave</p>

<p>Very interesting pics. I have a fondness for old record changers, anyway. :) I loved my Mamiya Super 23 I used to have and wish I'd never sold it (sigh). Keep up the creative work!<br>

Dave</p>

<p>That's a good picture, and illustrates what good bokeh is.</p>

<p>I must say, as a long time motorcycle enthusiest, I love the pictures! I just wish you had done a full shot of the Triumph and Vincent. I'd have liked to drool awhile over them... :D</p>

<p>Is there such a thing as a list of older lenses that are known for good bokeh (the creamy kind)? It would be beneficial to many of us to know which ones to look for without having to buy a lot of lenses we don't need. 35mm and MF should both be included.<br>

Personally, I'd like a lens with excellent creamy type of bokeh for my Pacemaker 23 Speed Graphic. It's just to expensive to buy a big variety and shoot a lot of 120 film to find out.<br>

Dave</p>

<p>I have always admired the Kodak Ektar 101mm F 4.5 that a lot of Speed Graphics came with. I've had two of them and just love the quality of pics they take. If I recall correctly, the rear cemented elements are reversed compared to a true Tessar design. Does this still count as a Tessar clone?<br>

I also like the Optar 135 I have for the Speed Graphic.<br>

I've also had excellent results from an Industar 24 105mm F=3.5 on my Moskva 5.<br>

I'm not sure if I even have a 35mm camera with a Tessar type lens on it.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>Very nice pics! I love this type of work and wish there was more places like this within easy driving of my home.<br>

I have a Vivitar V2000 that is one of my favorite SLR's to use. Light, compact and great ergonomics. My lens is the 35-70 zoom, but is still sharp and contrasty. What more could anyone want?<br>

Dave</p>

<p>As far as TLR's go, consider the Mamiya C220. It is smaller and lighter than the C330's and uses the same lenses and attachmants. There are wide angle, normal and telephoto lenses available, as well as both waist level and eye level attachments (porrofinder and prisim). The porrofinder is lighter but has a dimmer and somewhat smaller image. Mamiya lenses are very good quality. The ground glass viewfinder has a Fresnel lens and is quite bright, and aftermarket ones are available that are even brighter.<br>

An alternative I'd consider very highly for landscape (and general) photography is one of the 2 x 3 Graphics (Speed, Crown and Century). These are a little slow to use compared to a compact rangefinder, SLR or TLR, but are very versital. They have ground glass focus and rangefinder (for one lens only). I use an Ektar 101 on my Pacemaker 23 Speed Graphic. The image quality will amaze you on 6 x 7 format. You even have a few front standard movements available which can be useful in landscape use.<br>

I have also used a Mamiya Super 23 press camera. Nice handling and excellent lenses, but very heavy. A Century Graphic is much lighter and will fold into a more compact package. Even the heavier Speed Graphic is smaller and lighter than a Mamiya Press. The Century and Crown will take a somewhat wider angle lens, which is something to consider in landscape work, while the Speed has a rear focal plane shutter that allows the use of barrel lenses if you want to experiment with some really old classics. Some of them get surprisingly good results and are frequently available at decent prices.<br>

Dave</p>

<p>Scott,</p>

<p>I love the pictures of the Shay steam locomotive. I was heavy into model railroading from childhood until about 30 years old when I had to give it up (new house had no room for it). The geared locomotives, like Shay, Climax and Heisler, were always favorites. The pictures brings back nice memories.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>Heck, I wouldn't mind finding some fifty cent barrel lenses for my Speed Graphic. They are fun to play with and some take great pictures. I can't seem to find affordable ones, either.<br>

Dave</p>

<p>This thread brings back the memories. My first quality camera was a Miniature Speed Graphic. My soon-to-be father-in-law gave it to me back in early 1979. It was heat and smoke damaged from a house fire and looked rough but functioned great. Had a Kodak Antistigmat lens and only had sheet film holders for it. I used it for a year or so and traded it in on a nice Pacemaker 23 Speed. Still have a Pacemaker 23 speed and love using it with the Ektar 101 and Optar 135. All of those old 2 x 3 Speed Graphics were a pleasure to use and get fantastic results.<br>

Dave :)</p>

<p>For 35mm it'd be an easy choice, my Retina IIa. For medium format, it gets harder. I love my Mamiya C2 and C220 with the 80mm f-2.8 Sekor lens and the 180mm lens. I also love my 2 x 3 Pacemaker Speed Graphic with 101 Ektar in Synchro-Rapid 800 shutter, a 135 f-4.5 Optar, and 6 x 7mm rapid wind rollfilm holder. I started with a Baby Speed Graphic back in the late 70's, so have a very soft spot in my heart for Speed Graphics, but those Mamiya TLR's are so nice to use. Decisions, decisions...<br>

Dave</p>

The Mamiya C220/80mm Sekor is one of my my personal favorites. That lens is capable of somehow achieving just the right balance between resolution, contrast and the ability to make an image look three-dimensional. Also, the film is held extremely flat in the C-series of Mamiya cameras.

I plan on keeping mine until well beyond when film is extinct.

 

Dave :)

>Kevin Bourquephoto.net patron, Mar 26, 2008; 01:36 p.m.

 

I used a Moskva 5 for a while. The image quality was good (at least on mine) but the cameras was awkward to use. The worst part was the squinty little viewfinder.<

 

I fixed the viewfinder on my Moskva 5. I took an old folding wire frame finder off an old Kodak folder and glued it on top of the Moskva. Works great, and has no horizontal parallax issues like the built in finder does.

 

Dave :)