ray_dockrey

<p>The other issue is you might be setting the aperture at 4.5 but if you zoom in it won't stay there. That lens is variable aperture so if you zoom all the way in then you are now at 5.6 maybe higher. I am not sure where that Tamron lens closes down too.</p>

 

<p>I don't know why but it looks like you have no choice. But according to flash zebra you can use this to fix the issue. The battery pack they sell looks like the one you ordered.<br>

http://flashzebra.com/products/0208/index.shtml</p>

 

<p>This would also be a quick way to know which way to bring the fill flash in when shooting off camera flash.</p>

<p>I too had bad luck with Zeikos grips. The first one lasted about three months on my D300 and the metal tabs that engage the battery broke. It was under warranty but Zeikos said they would be happy to replace it but it was $14 for shipping and handling. I was able to rig it where it would work.<br>

When I got my D300s I thought I would try again. It was DOA on arrival. Whenever I would put it on the camera the whole camera would just shut down. Take it off and the camera would power right back up. This was a brand new camera. I sent it back and got the Nikon grip.</p>

<p>I used the free Picasa for a long time till I realized I needed something more. I then switched to Lightroom which I love.</p>

<p>I always do it the way your instructor says too. I get home from a shoot, pull the card and transfer to the computer. Put the card back in the camera and do a format. That way the camera is always ready to go.</p>

I also suggest cleaning the contacts. There are YouTube videos that show you how. These are the contacts between

the lens and camera body.

<p>Here is the video I used to learn how to do the cleaning. Just remember to hold the camera with the lens mount down when blowing and lightly brushing off the contacts. so any debris falls out of the camera and not in. I was having issues with the autofocus. It would just stop working and I would have to unmount and remount the lens. After cleaning the contacts I have had no more issues.<br>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41hAgFbbk-E</p>

 

<p>@Michael, if he ever loses his camera or the memory card gets corrupted he will understand why not to leave the photos on the card. Sometimes people just don't get it until a catastrophe happens.</p>

<p>I also have that lens. Bought it locally used for $750. It looked brand new. Outstanding lens. I do miss the VR at times but other than that it is a fine lens. I use the heck out of it and have never had a problem with it. One thing though. It is heavy. It is built like a tank and you feel it after a day of shooting with it. I use a monopod with it whenever I can.</p>

<p>I designed these last week and had my dad make them since he is retired and has all kinds of time on his hands lol. The tallest one is 48" and designed for people standing.</p>

<p>The shorter two are 30" and 18" and have legs running through them so they can be sat on. All three are covered in gray seamless paper so the color can be changed as needed. I have about $70 in them including the roll of paper. I am very happy with them and just wanted to share.</p>

<p><img src="http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i320/Ray_Dockrey/176200_166434913405125_138309242884359_325056_2721541_o.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>This looks like a white balance setting as somebody suggested. i think with some tweaking it would look pretty decent. The picture looks really cool. A little bit of warming up should fix the issue.</p>

<p>I would also suggest to give the body and lens contacts a good cleaning. There are videos on Youtube that show how to do it. I use DeOxit from Radioshack and it does the trick.</p>

<p>Is there anyway you can be back there with them? I shoot all our baptism's at my church and our setup looks like yours. You can enter into the pool from either side and there is enough room for me to neal down in the corner and shoot. We have a room in the back that I take pre-baptism pictures first of the family and the individual by themselves and then the pastor and then shoot the actual baptism.<br>

I am not allowed to use flash so I shoot at ISO 800 to 1600 with my 35mm 1.8 on my D300s. It just depends on if the lighting guy remembers to turn the lights up for me.</p>

<p><img src="http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i320/Ray_Dockrey/RAY_2026.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I use this one (Flashpoint Budget Studio Monolight) and it has been great. The halogen modeling light gets very hot so I leave it off most of the time but other than that it is a great little light.</p>

<p>http://www.adorama.com/FPBF160.html</p>

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<p>You can buy the new clips for around $15 and there is a how to on the web so you can replace them yourself. It looks time consuming but not to difficult. The new clips are made different from what I here and less prone to breakage.</p>

<p>You are missing something. The receivers only have a mono jack out so you have to hook up the receiver to the flash using a mono jack to PC cable. If the flash doesn't have a PC connection then you have to use a hotshoe adapter.</p>

<p>The twin ring version holds its value quite well. I paid $750 for mine used and after seeing what people are asking for them that was a good price. I see them quite often for $800-900. I just looked at KEH and the twin ring versions of this lens are in that $800-900 price range. The push pull versions are considerably less.</p>

<p>I have that Photek system (different brand name) and it works quite well. I have been very pleased with it and it has taken a beating. You might try looking around as it comes in different brands and I have seen it as low as $100.</p>

<p>I also use the camera meter and then check the histogram. For my studio shots I use a light meter (Sekonic L358) to measure the light from each light to make sure my ratios are correct.</p>

<p>I use something like this. Mine is a different brand name but it is identical to this one and works quite well especially for the price. It comes in three different sizes. It won't take an umbrella but they have a separate kit for that if you find that you need one.</p>

<p>http://www.cowboystudio.com/product/c09/p0907-02.php</p>

 

<p>They why gripe. Surely you know the old adage "You get what you pay for". And it sure doesn't sound like a bargain to me. It doesn't work like it should.</p>

<p>My problem with all this is that this model flash is currently selling on Amazon from Adorama for $35 USD. To me that sounds warning bells all over the place on the quality you are getting.</p>

<p>I too have been through this same dilemma. I have a D300 and a D200 which is my backup. It bit the dust over the weekend and I have decided to replace it. After holding the D7000 and playing around with it for a little bit I chose a D300s. I just did not like smallness of it and it was uncomfortable to me. The D300s will become my primary and my D300 will be my second/backup.<br>

On my D200 800 ISO was the best I could get out of it. My D300 is very good at higher ISO's so I am not sure where the others are getting that the D300 is only marginally better than the D200. I also like the fact that the D300s shares the same batteries and flash cards as my D300 and D200 so the spare batteries, flash cards and my dual charger will work with my D300s.</p>

<p>I also love mine. i have Cybersyncs so I hook up a cable from the sync port on the Sekonic to the jack on the Cybersync transmitter. I hit the button the on the Sekonic, it triggers the transmitter, and it fires my studio strobes.</p>