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ajrobertson

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Posts posted by ajrobertson

  1. <p>Just for intersts sake, here are some shots and details form some of my recent lunar pics-you will not resolve a lot of detail until you get out into the 1000mm + focal length<br>

    this is at 2032 mm thru my sct scope.<br>

    Model: Canon EOS 40D;<br />ExposureTime: 1/200 s;<br />ISOSpeedRatings: 400;<br />ExposureProgram: Manual;<br />ExposureBiasValue: 0;<br />MeteringMode: Pattern;<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11807990-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="453" /></p>

    <p>this is at approx 600mm thru a smaller refractor<br>

    Model: Canon EOS 40D;<br />ExposureTime: 1/125 s;<br />ISOSpeedRatings: 200;<br />ExposureProgram: Manual;<br />ExposureBiasValue: 0;<br />MeteringMode: Pattern;</p>

    <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11534952-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="486" />a little overexposed here tho. remember at these focal lengths everything is conspiring against you! wind shutter shake, upper atmosphere jetstream speed etc etc etc.</p>

    <p>have fun!</p>

  2. <p>id set it to manual and set it up to fasted shutter speed possible 1/8000....check the shutter action and listen to the body at its limits... approx 8 frames/sec ive chked a few on CList before i found my deal, and they seem to be struggling or something<br>

    theres also a script /app you could download for the canon system that can confirm shutter count <br>

    http://astrojargon.net/40dshuttercount.aspx<br>

    i take my laptop along and plug them in to check AFTER they tell me their estimated shutter count...that should clear up if they're a reputable seller.<br>

    i got mine off craigslist for a great price too...id inquire about service history if any, obviously take a look at the sensor area closely.<br>

    good luck.</p>

    <p>btw i got mine WITH receipt for $500 canadian with the 17-85 4-5.6</p>

  3. <p>ahh, i see said the blind man. thanks.<br>

    now... ive asked this a few times but when i save pics as jpgs for posting on this site, the exif data doesnt always seem to show up. I usually export as jpg out of lightroom.</p>

    <p>cheers,<br>

    Andrew</p>

  4. <p>Ok so I get the idea of DOF, soooo... if i focus on a subject 5 feet away, 12mm at f22 everything from about 1 foot away to infinity should technically be in focus.<br>

    So if my pics seem a little soft, it could be the lens, the matching of the lens to body (mis-calibration), motion blur, atmospheric interference (mist steam dust etc)</p>

    <p>I use a tripod, timer, and some pics seem soft and some are better than others. So if i havent changed anything between 1 pic to the next, how could the clarity of the exposures be different?ANy ideas would be greatly appreciated.</p>

    <p>cheers,<br>

    AJ</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <p>i guess i need to sharpen up my masking skills, in order to get the forground like i want and the background like i want as well. Or frame in such a way that there isnt a middle ground that gets darkened my the ND grad along the horizon. I just find masking exposure differences when there is light through the tree branches up at the top right difficult, and the results dont look very natural. the purple sky thru the branches ends up lighter and looks weird.... maybe a little dodge and burn.</p>

    <p> </p>

  6. <p>So I used a PP NDgrad filter of 2.5 stops (in lightroom) so I could see if this shot would work out. As you can obviously see the side trees in the middle right, are darkened so much as to make it distracting in order to expose the sky in the way I hoped, and ruins the detail of the rocks in the middle.</p>

    <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10428433-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="453" /><br>

    I'm guessing this would be the wrong time to use a NDgrad as the composition does not lend itself to using it properly.</p>

    <p>Is there another way to do this? The dynamic range at the time was such that i couldnt get the exposure I wanted and I'm thinking the only way would be to use a mask or layering in PS and combine the 2 exposures(?) I have tried this in the past and find it doesnt work very well with trees and branches (top right)..... at least with my limited knowledge.</p>

    <p>any ideas/comments?</p>

    <p>cheers</p>

  7. <p>craigslist. everyone just <em>HAS</em> to have 15 mps. lots of good bodies dumped after low actuations. save some $$ and get some nice glass. do a lot of research and find a body that you think will fit your needs and then go check it out new at a shop. then go on craigslist.<br>

    not that my camera is considered a "great"camera by everyone (still more than I can handle at the moment) , but i got a nearly brand new canon 40D with 18-85 kit lens for $500 canadian. WITH reciept and warranty card. 3 months old-350 actuations (verified). Now I am slowly purchasing lenses ( 50mm f1.8II, sigma 10-22mm f4.0-5.6, and a canon 70-200mm L F4 in my stocking in 4 days!) for different things.. and still all under my orig budget.</p>

    <p>happy hunting!</p>

  8. <p>how exactly does the focal plane change the "look" of the image so much? Is it the relationship of the subjects to each other at such a far off range that confuses the image in our minds? I have an understading of how a tilt shift lens works but I am referring to the actual illusion of miniaturization.</p>

    <p>cheers,<br>

    Andrew</p>

  9. <p>As this is my first wide angle lens, I was hoping some would let me think of the copy quality, and if it seems to be calibrated well for my 40d body.<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10363653-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="453" /><br /> I put it through the unsharp mask filter at 80% .5 radius threshold 3 I used the AF centre spot on the 2 triangular ice chunks dead center. Made sure there was a little flare on the top left. It was taken at 10mm F10 1/500sec.<br>

    <br /> It seems to be relatively sharp in the centre and losing it on the edges, I think there is some CA as well... all as advertised. I will be using this for landscape wide shots so i am trying to compare this apples to apples in reference to my other lenses in which on closer shots is no comparison in sharpness.<br /> cheers,<br /> Andrew<br>

    p.s how can I export from either lightroom or PS 4 so that the EXIF data is preserved when I upload to this site? I think I asked about this before but need some help.</p>

  10. <p>I am not familiar with the model you have but from the site it shows a min macro focusing distance of 10 cm "Auto Macro : 10cm~Infinity (Wide), 50cm~ Infinity (Tele)" im not sure what magnification that would give you though.</p>

    <p>so if you are trying to get the close up shot of flowers as you say, as long as you are 10cm away from the subject and in maybe an auto macro mode? it should give you as close up as it can give you. macro mode usualy has a flower symbol<img src="http://www.paneristipix.com/artwork/blog/macro-icon.jpg" alt="" width="240" height="180" /></p>

    <p>like that somewhere either on a button or in a menu somewhere. It would set you up in an auto mode to focus as close as possible.<br>

    Also, when you tried before, did you get the autofocus alert beep? Either telling you it has been able to focus or it hasn't?<br>

    cheers,<br>

    AJ</p>

  11. <p>Heres kind of a cheat for this, but If you cant AEB on your current model but can shoot in RAW, then you can "re-expose" the images for what ever interval you like via any RAW development software and save multiple copies of the same image at different exposures and combine them in HDR software. </p>

    <p>works well if you are trying to get HDR images of moving subjects too, and can only get one image.</p>

  12.  

     

    <p>if you're kicking around waikiki beach, theres a concrete pier that goes out about 75 yrds. All the body boarders ride right in front of it and kick off the wave at the end of the pier as it crashes up against it. You can get some pretty cool shots right there on the end. Interesting vantage point being above the surfers.<br>

    http://www.photo.net/photo/10301459<br>

    http://www.photo.net/photo/10301458<br>

    also, if you get a early moring hike up to the top of diamond head.. about 10 minute bus ride east of the city (2$) , the park opens at 6am I think and the hike to the top is about 30 mins easy. Lots of stairs near the top and you have to climb through some bunkers etc, but youd get some good shots of the coast and the city.<br>

    http://www.photo.net/photo/10301455<br>

    http://www.photo.net/photo/10301454</p>

     

     

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