gabe_joynt

<p>Stephen and Jeroen, thanks so much for the advice and the diagram. I took it apart, blew air around (a lot), and it now works like a charm. Went through 200+ slides with no issues at all, and the focus problem I had earlier noted was gone -- AF was so quick that nobody watching the show would notice it if I didn't point it out.</p>

<p>Stephen -- thanks, I opened up the compartment below the slide tray and found a moth that had spread itself around pretty well. Cleaning that out and blowing air around improved things; it will now advance empty trays easily. Now, the claw mechanism does't extend quite far enough to clear the slides. I suspect I need to be more aggressive or open up the more-difficult-to-open-says-don't-open-electric-shock-hazard compartment.<br>

Jeroen -- yes, it does eventually find focus. I suspect it is what Stephen pointed out: Cold slides. I could see how a belt would be a good idea, but how would I get in to the bigger compartment? I don't see screws, is there a special tool needed?</p>

<p>What's a good approach to warming slides? I could put them on a heating pad, 100 degrees F? Searched on that and did not find.<br>

Thanks for your help!<br>

Gabe</p>

<p>Hello, I bought a Leica P150 Projector used and it has two problems. Any advice would be appreciated, just to understand if it's "supposed to" work this way or whether something is broken. Given the economics, I would not pay someone to repair it, rather pass it along and get a good old Kodak. It came with a bunch of accessories, so it's all tricked out but seems to fail at its essential function.<br>

<strong>1. Slide advance</strong>: The slide tray won't advance without some gentle pressure applied to the back of the tray towards the front. Even with an empty cartridge, or no cartridge, it peters out and stops advancing after several frames. With a loaded cartridge, it will sometimes show two slides in a row then stops. Gentle nudge from the back makes it move ahead. I blew some air around the inside of the projecter where the slides go in, and that seems to have improved things but not enough to work.<br>

I am using 50-slide trays, Leica 4G002, of which 2 came with the kit. There are also 6 Reflecta trays (50 slides, black, marked "din 108" which I actually haven't tried.<br>

<strong>2. Focus</strong>: For every slide, the projector hunts for focus. It doesn't take long (1 second or so), but it's annoying as the audience sees each slide in blurry form and starts working to figure out what it is. Maybe a style thing. Is it possible -- and would it work -- to turn of af? Seems like the distance between post-pop slide and screen should remain constant, no?<br>

Also, I've read about the issues that cause parts of the projected image to be out of focus. Disappointing but not worth glass-mounting slides for me.<br>

Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>I thought I submitted a response earlier to this... I experienced I think everything you're describing when I got my used SLX II. Including trying to hold the battery down *just* the right way so the charger lights would come on. I bought two different chargers -- I actually think I bought 3 and returned one. </p>

<p>Anyway, nothing worked. I could sometimes squeeze a few frames out if I charged the battery by stacking heavy books on top to maintain charge, but I had a freak "race to the end of the film" auto-advance incident that ended that.</p>

<p>I was lucky enough to find an already-repacked battery (Sanyo kit) on ebay for $60. It is the dream. It is the battery your battery could charge like. No problems, and I think I charged it once a couple months ago and it still fires. (I have only put a few rolls through the SLX in this time). </p>

<p>The camera is worth it, especially with that 150 lens. I am sure you can find someone to do the repack job for you if you don't want to take it on yourself.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>...if an American citizen purchased a lens or camera body overseas that was in this class, then customs would allow it in only if the offending trademark name was erased.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>This makes even better sense. Thank you. I wonder who did the etching -- did the overseas dealer bust out the drill at the point of sale? Not that it matters, just a curiousity.</p>

<p>Mr. Dube... I hadn't consulted what I had written down previously, which was that it was serial number 26691 (1930) and matched up to the description I'd found of a Leica II except it has a 35mm viewfinder. I actually don't recall the distinction between the converted II's and III's. It has speeds from 1/500 to 20-1 (?).</p>

<p>Here's a picture of the kit; the defaced Summaron is in the lower middle. The shutter needs servicing but otherwise the camera is in great shape. <br>

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2598/3783683012_04da19da68.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Oh, and a picture from one of our first sojourns. <br>

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3531/3836325520_53eee05b17.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Thanks everyone.</p>

<p>I was given a Leica I converted to a II or III; it has the original collapsable 5cm nickel Elmar, part of a well used kit from the original owner (who is long gone). Along with it is a 3.5cm Summaron -- on the Summaron (only), the word "Leitz" is etched out like someone took a dremel to it, on the face of the lens.</p>

<p>Of course there must be a good reason for this, and I have read of other old LTM gear that is defaced this way. But I would love to understand more about <em>why</em>.</p>

<p>I asked about this on another forum and someone suggested that at the end of WWII USA military personel who had purchased Leica gear in Germany were required to etch out the name before bringing it back. This sounds pretty logical, in a US Army kind of way.</p>

<p>Can anyone share more history, or stories, about this? Other rationale?<br />Thank you!</p>

<p>

<p>After re-reading the manual... I realize I had been looking at the spare fuse. No matter, the fuse within the battery seems fine as well there is one filament running diagonally with a small clump in the middle. <br>

After I got the camera home and it sat a few days, I loaded film and then tried it again -- perhaps I loaded the film incorrectly and the flash blew? That would explain things, but the flash does not look blown to me.</p>

</p>

<p>Hello, I am the new owner of a Rolleiflex SLX (2) which I'm having trouble charging. Your help sincerely appreciated so I can enjoy this splendid camera. Here's what's going on:</p>

<ul>

<li>The camera came with a battery, but no charger. The previous owner powered up the battery for about 20 minutes so I could test the camera, but the charge has run out. He had two SLX's and one charger. The camera tested fine. </li>

<li>I bought a replacement charger from KEH, sold in Excellent condition which ought to mean it works. It is marked "Rollei Charger G for SLX/6006. </li>

<li>I plugged in the charger and placed the battery into the charger. No lights turned on. Left it like this for 5 minutes or so. </li>

<li>The battery charger has 4 pins at the bottom. The battery has six holes to accept pins. When I seat the battery into the charger it feels like it seats correctly -- it doesn't snap into place, but it feels like it's in there properly. </li>

<li>I then (domp!) examined the charger some more, and saw that it has a widget to switch between voltages. </li>

<li>It was set to 110/115. I am in the USA, so I believe it should have been set to 120/127. The other options are 110V, 200V, 220V, 230/240. I tried 220 as well, recalling the scene in Mr. Mom where he says "220, 221, whatever it takes."</li>

<li>I re-set it to 120 and tried again for 90 minutes. No lights turned on, no charge seems to have been made. No heat, weird noises, house did not burn down. </li>

<li>I then (domp!) examined the battery some more and saw there is a fuse in it. </li>

<li>Perhaps I blew the fuse when it was set to 110?</li>

<li>The fuse has a small wire running across the inside of it -- I wouldn't guess it's blown by the looks of it, but what do I know? </li>

<li>I then (domp!) examined the cord which runs from the outlet to the charging box; It says 70 / 2.8A / 128V. </li>

<li>If the previous owner had it set to 110/115, perhaps this is the wrong cord? </li>

<li>Perhaps the charger is busted? The fact that it was left on 110 seems to suggest that KEH might not have tested it, does that sound correct? KEH is located in Atlanta USA.</li>

</ul>

<p>I have a few days left on the charger warranty and wonder if I should send it back.<br>

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any advice. </p>