john caetano photos

<p>LA just reminded me, have you checked the battery settings on your D90? You need to select the type of batteries you use and make sure the camera is setup correctly. Just a thought if you haven't looked yet.</p>

<p>If still having issues, just return it and get a Nikon model, I have no issues with mine like stated before.</p>

<p>That might be the problem Ted!! I know it does auto focus at times with the remote, so it really bugging me, it could be that i have focused it at times with the hard button also and maybe that is overriding the remote. I'll have to try this at home. Thank you for the tip!</p>

<p>Sounds like the metering in your camera is defective. I am sure they will have it repaired. Best of luck.</p>

<p>I got the nikon grip and the battery should work in either slot, whether its a single battery or both.</p>

<p>Do you have any issues with out the grip? Have you been able to go to a local shop and try a nike battery grip on your nikon body? Does your model grip support the use of a single battery in either lsot?</p>

<p>If i had to guess i would say its a grip issue. Never noticed any issues of blinking with my D90.</p>

<p>GL!</p>

<p>Jerry, thanks for the suggestion, just sometimes it's hard to figure out the exact position of where me or the subject will be (depends on what i'm shooting, in some cases your suggestions does help). Is there a setting that makes the camera auto focus each time it goes to fire?</p>

<p>Hey folks,</p>

<p>I ran into an issue last night working on self portraits (365 project) which I've encountered before. What happens is I set the camera on a tripod, and use the wirelesss remote to trigger. I walk into position and try to remote and at times it will facous (rare) and others it just snaps pictures without refocusing...I tried changing the facusing type to A-S, A-C, etc... and no luck at making it refocus each picture. I also changed the focus selection to a specific area to focus on and nothing happens.</p>

<p>Any tips/suggestions?</p>

<p>Thank you!</p>

<p>I have no problems with the AF speed on my D90, it's super fast. But sorry can't compare to others...</p>

<p>That's exactly what I am doing now, but it's annoying to have to run it twice and move the files into separate directories in prep work. Thanks for the reply though.</p>

<p>Ok here what i'm trying to do. I want to be able to create an action or script or whatever to automate the process of opening large res files and saving them for web. The problem i'm running into is i can't seem to find the right settings to resize both landscape and portrait type photos. If i choose to reszie width, the the other type photos are still to large, if i resize height then the other style photos are either too small. Is there a setting/option that resizes both portraits and landscape photos to a standard web size that i can automate?</p>

<p>I know how to create actions, i just don't know what settings to use to resize both landscapes and portraits at the same time to something usable.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>It's complicated to explain and understand, but i will try my best.</p>

<p>Whats happening is since they are raw files (unprocessed) Adboe bridge applies it default camera raw setting to each file when you view them. What i usually like to do is open one of the files in camera raw. and apply the following settings (camera profile, recovery, fill light, blacks, brightness and contrast to what might look similar to what the camera produces) once these settings are applied in the upper right hand corner to the right of the title "Basic" click on the drop down menu icon and choose "Save camera raw deafults" </p>

<p>This will apply these settings to each raw file once you view them so it looks similar to what the camera produces and it's not totally off.<br>

<br /> Hope this helps.</p>

<p>I guess I'll approach this if the photographer does not meet my budget.</p>

<p>Thank you all.</p>

<p>Damn, I posted a response but never hit the confirm button yesterday.<br>

<br /> Anyhow I appreciate everyone's feedback, and total understand where everyone is coming from. One thing i did want to clear up is i'm not looking for the RAWs or even looking to totally tweak the photos, if their processed thats file with me. I was more relating the work of making albums, prints for my wall and etc....will not be looking to make money off of it or anything. I guess it depends how much processing time is put into each file whether the photographer will allow or not. <br>

It's gotta be a pain to edit each file....but that's not my fault...</p>

<p>Ok here's my situation.<br>

I am getting married in April 2011. My girl and I are paying for the wedding ourselves and have a really strict budget. I am finding that Photographers that we like are in the $3,000 range but our budget is about $2,100 at most. Since I have expirence in photography, and have done one wedding myself, I was thinking about doing the after work myself but have the photog do the picture work.<br>

I know most of their profit comes from albums and such, but all i really need to the full res proofs and i can do the rest myself. What do you think will be a photographers attitude if i was to present something like this? I would basically ask them for a price on what they would charge to take the pictures, rather then a package price. How much cheaper do you think it would come out if they were to agree?</p>

<p>WOW...so much info it's overwhelming.</p>

<p>Anyways I kinda wanted to point out with of course more playing and reading, I do understand about DOF when it comes to Aperture #'s, but I guess what I need to practice more on is how F #s, Distance, and focal lengths (which is kinda like getting closer or farther from the subject) comes into play. I have a slim understanding but can't quite master it on the floor yet when it comes to knowing what will happen before taking the shot.</p>

<p>I guess what I need to do in order to solve my problem if I want to continue to use small F #s is to back up in order to keep multiple faces in sharp focus and then crop in post. If not an option then stop down to get the desired results. (Of course the reason I state to use low apertures is when i need faster shutter speeds and don't feel like bumping up the ISO any higher)</p>

<p>Anyways thanks for all the info guys/gals, going to reread it a few times to get it into my head.</p>

<p>Don't buy a SLR because of a screen (live view)...its slow at focusing and you will loose a lot of shots, plus it doesn't work all the time. Now if this is the only option you have, then its a different story. But don't let the marketing of a screen and swivel make you buy a specific camera. Just my 2 cents</p>

<p>You guys have all did a awesome job at providing feedback and i am truly appreciated. I need to take all this info and practice. Last night i took the camera and tried shooting at different F #s and also different lengths and had a hard time really seeing the difference but i did. I just need to keep at it and see how the differences will affect it all.</p>

<p>Thanks again for all your time and thoughts</p>

<p>John does this apply to a DX formatted camera? My 50mm acts as a 75mm in a 35mm format camera.</p>

<p>Yea i kinda get how DOF works, but then again maybe not exactly how length and f #'s work. I know the closer to the subject you are, the shallower the DOF, and vice versa...i guess what is borthering me is I see photos out there that i try to shoot at the same specs and don't get nearly the same DOF that i seen in other photos....maybe there is something i'm missing though...IDK</p>

<p>Also another thing is buying fast lens and not being able to take advantage of the low F #s because of how shallow it can sometimes be (this depends of course on the type of shot i'm taking). So my guess is, should i shoot farther away from subjects and crop is post to use low F #s and fast shutter speeds?</p>

<p>Thanks Matt for the tool, I will get playing with it for study. I have seen it and know exactly what you mean, just don't understand how people shoot portraits wide open and get so much in focus (unless they are photoshopping it. For example, i'm seen a photo where there was a person totally in focus crisp sharp but everything else was clearly out of focus....just can't understand that.</p>

<p>Matt that makes sense...there's one point... Thanks</p>

<p>Wow really? I usually shoot F2 for single portraits and try to stop a bit further for groups (2+ people)</p>

<p>So then low F numbers are not good for portraits....so then there's no point in fast lens for portraits...(mean this in most cases not all)</p>

<p>Ok, I know there awesome and great for shallow DOF, but here's my problem.</p>

<p>When i shoot more then 1 person, there is always one out of focus. I even try shooting at F4 sometimes and to me they still come out soft. I shoot with both a 50 1.8 and 35 1.8. Usually keep torso and heads within frame (relatively close). Any tips? There's no point in fast lens if i can't make these portraits sharp.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>All I can say is after you buy the camera, you will still want the lens. Not only that, but you will wish you still had your old camera.</p>

<p>Lets just say, I started with a D40 Nikon, sold and bought a D90, and bought another D40 for backup, and use the D40 more then the D90. (Hint)</p>

<p>That is it, can't believe I missed that! Thanks Mark for pointing it out and Thanks Richard for pointing me in the right direction!</p>

<p>I reviewed their site and no luck yet....basically to try and give more info on what i am looking for, it would show a picture of what each lighting modifier would produce. So i can compare a softbox image to a umbrella image to see how the difference in lighting looks.</p>

<p>Hopefully this clears up what i am looking for.</p>