craveprints

<p>I am sure this question has been asked but I cannot find the answer for my specific set up no matter what I search on here. So I am currently obsessing over all the IR photos with white foliage and dark skies (and of course all of the astral photos). Like this shot by Zeeshan Ahmed:<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/11129014<br>

I am wondering which IR filter will work best with my camera and lens. I have a Canon EOS 40d and usually use a 50mm Canon prime (bouncing back and forth between that and a 70-300); or will I need to invest in a modified IR camera/ different lens etc? <br>

Things to keep in mind: I believe the remote test works on my camera (I haven't done it personally but everything I have read said it should be able to pick up IR fairly well; I will check for myself later today)<br>

I know to get exactly what I want I will have to switch the red and blue channels/other editing in post; I know that the modification is permanent and will most likely render the camera useless for other types of photography...<br>

Other than that I really don't know too much about the entire process or what the pros/cons of a filter vs the mod are. If any one has had any success with any of the filters (hoya vs b&w vs lower end filters), or if anyone has tried both filters vs a modified camera, can you share your experiences? <br>

Cheers!<br>

A</p>

<p>Try getting your exposure right on the sky and then use this exposure setting for the image. This shouldn't wash out the sky, but may create more underexposure on the focus of a shot like the image above because I am assuming the awning was in a shadow.. Perhaps correct exposure setting on the sky and a fill flash for the shadow under the awning? Also polarizing filters will darken the sky just like polarizing sunglass do on your eyes, so a good polarizing filter may be just what you need. The ND filters from what I understand gradually transition from dark to light, but there may be a line across the middle of a shot like this; I think they are more suited for landscape photography, and not too good if there is something like a mountain in the image, since its not a straight horizon line (not exactly sure because I have never used one). But definitely the use of shooting in RAW will help you adjust this problem in post like the others said.<br>

-A</p>

<p>Can you post the image? Perhaps it can be done in post with editing software? Also not sure what exactly you mean by "fade it out." </p>

<p>In my opinion its not the camera its how you use it. I would buy the 50mm prime first (you can get a Canon one pretty cheap maybe $100). See how you like it on your current camera and play around with it, go out and experiment. I absolutley love love love my 50mm prime, and generally it is the lens I use the most. Plus if money is an issue (for me it is because school gets most of my money) the 50mm is very versatile, if you are clever. A reversing ring and a 50mm prime, boom- new macro lens. Most if not all of my shots on this site are using the 50mm prime, including the bubble macros (the lens and a reversing ring and lots of light!) and all of the street stuff. I am an avid amature myself and use a 40d; I would love an upgrade, but I do just fine with what I have now. Besides if the lens isn't right for you its only $100 wasted, as opposed to $1500+ for a new camera that may give you more features but may not be what you need to get the images you want. Try the lens, if you still feel inhibited by your equipment then get the camera; if money is not a factor get both. Again just my opinion, but I will suggest a good 50mm prime to anyone who will listen; its great for street, studio, portraits even landscapes. SO 50mm prime!!<br>

-A</p>

<p>Only buy a macro lens if you are truly dedicated to macro. Remember to ALWAYS first buy a great camera and great VERSATILE lens, then build upon this solid foundation. My foundation is simple and dirt cheap and just may be what you are looking for. My camera of choice is a Canon EOS 40d crisp clear professional quality and now on the cheaper side ($399 at keh: http://www.keh.com/camera/Canon-Digital-Camera-Bodies/1/sku-DC029991024110?r=FE) My lens of choice is the most versatile lens I have so far come across, a Canon EF 50mm prime f1.8 (I guarantee you can find one for less than $120 total just by google-ing it). The reversing ring can be found on amazon for around $15-25. This lens combined with a reversing ring can get extreme close up images, even without the reversing ring it can get extremely close on natures small wonders. It can also capture the fleeting everyday moments that we may miss. The EOS40d is my absolutely favorite dslr camera and speaks for itself, and the lens is just the best lens ever. Super cheap set up and enough know how and you can accomplish anything. <br>

here is one of my bubble macro shots using an incredible cheap set up the EOS 40d, a reversing ring and 50mm combined with a do it yourself softbox as the only light source:<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/12767114-md.jpg" alt="039.JPG" width="314" height="209" border="0" /><br>

Here is a spider outside same 50mm prime lens without the reversing ring, light source is the EOS' on board flash:<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16326633-md.jpg" alt="a sideglanced view" width="196" height="292" border="0" /><br>

again the same versatile lens and camera, and natural light..<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16285275-md.jpg" alt="" width="321" height="264" border="0" /></p>

 

<p>Thank you all so much for your suggestions! At the moment I am leaning toward the Tamaron 10-24mm but I think I am just going to go out and play with some. Thanks again</p>

<p>Hello all! I am searching high and low to find the best wide angle lens (not fish eye) for my canon eos 40d. I do have a 50mm prime, as well as a 28mm-135mm and a 70mm-300mm and I know that 28mm is covered in the zoom but that lens is too heavy for my wrist now when I use it for a prolonged periods of time (broken wrist a while ago) plus I think the shutter speed is slower than when I bought it. So I figured try to sell the heavy zoom and buy a wide angle prime I was looking at a 28mm but may go lower if you guys have any good suggestions my budget is really less than $200 preferably (willing to shop around for a good used one to get within my budget) but up to $500 if necessary (which I would really love to avoid). I will be using this for street photography, and the 50mm prime is good for now, but I do want to go lower. Thank you for you sugguestions.<br>

Cheers! Amanda</p>

<p>I have a 70/300mm cannon zoom and I absolutely love it. I have the focal length I want in a compact and light weight lens. I was also lucky enough to score a referb online for $60 (history student and on a budget so I love steals like this) and I have had it and used it for the past two years with no complaints. All of this said my favorite lens is my 50mm cannon prime, great portrait lens for the price. Also another thing to consider is what focal length is the kit lens you have, if you're on a budget like me you won't want any or at least very minimal overlapping focal lengths with different lenses, so if your kit lens is a 28/135mm (like mine with my EOS 40d) a a big bulk of the 15/200mm lens is covered already on the 28/135mm and unless you have a major purpose for the wider angle focal lengths than you may not want to choose this lens (which is why I chose the 70/300mm in the first place) Hope this helps.</p><div></div>

<p>ahh sorry i didn't think to put up the link rather than the actual photo!!</p>

<p>that last one is more like what i want but still not exacty</p>

<p>thanks from what i am reading it seems like to get what i am attempting to do i will have to go with some type opf software (i have photoshop cs3, that i am a complete novice using, so i hope i can do it with that program) unless i go for a tilt shift type lens like the lensbaby muse.... they are pretty cheap i may just suck it up and buy one although i was really trying to avoid it....</p>

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<p>also i was using the 50mm prime- maybe if i try one of my longer lenses?</p>

 

<p>so i know that adjusting the aperture and shutter speed can create a narrow depth of field, but i cannot get what i am looking for by just doing that... the thing is when i use my 50mm lens reversed for macro stuff (like my bubble shots) i get the exact amount of narrowness that i am looking for... here is a shot that i found online it is the closest image i came across that looks like what i want to acheive- of course this one also seems to be a macro image (or at least a very close up shot of something small) i want the same effect but on a larger scale (like when shooting a building) is there some other magic tip you guys know of or do you think i will need to get a new lens- the 3 i have now are 50mm prime, a 28-135mm zoom, and a 70-300 zoom... any suggestions?</p>

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<p>nice!! thank you everone so much for the info, im happy they aren't worth much i feel like if they were i would be more inclined to get rid of them but i will have way more fun playing with them instead... i will post some pictures as soon as i have them available</p>

<p>so i found this old sx 70 polaroid land camera, that seems to be way broken, at a flea market and bought it for 5 bucks thinking i could use it as a book end since it won't work anyway. after that my loving boyfriend stumbled across 2 other cameras as he was helping clean out his grandmother's basement and asked if i could have them... one is a kodak motormatic 35mm camera with a ekantar lens and a kodalite midget flash holder and it has a few extra flash bulbs directions on use and a carrying case (which i am fairly certain is not real leather) the camera appears to be operational and i will be trying it out after i go out and buy some film... he also brought me a vintage canon at-1 with a 50mm lens which also appears to be in good working condition albeit being in desperate need of a good cleaning.... that said i know absolutely nothing about vintage cameras and before investing money to get them cleaned and to make sure they are up and running i was wondering if anyone on here knew roughly how much they would be worth; im not interested in selling them but i am debating on using them or just keeping them on my bookshelf... any insight on the matter would be greatly appreciated... <br>

cheers- ac</p>

<p>thanks... and yes i was raised catholic thats how i know what the interior looks like.. and the light part i was thinking about the church attached to the school i went to as a kid.. i figured it wouldn't hurt to ask but i didn't want to offend anyone and wasn't exactly sure if it would or not or how to go about it... and no it wouldn't be anything too out of the ordinary, like no nudes or anything like that basically a standard portrait shot... thanks guys i think i may start emailing and calling the churches in my area tomorrow.. cheers!</p>

<p>i have an idea for some portrait shots but i really want them to be done in an old school catholic confessional and i am honestly not sure how to go about getting the shot... do you think its acceptable to ask the preist if i can do it or do you feel it to be out of line? i don't want to seem insensitve to their religion in any way but the idea of the shadow and the way i want the light to be in my head it is just a perfect shot... any suggestions on how to go about this?</p>

<p>I need to make a portfolio to submit to try and get into photography as a major for the summer semester-fall semester this year and i am not sure where to even begin.. any thoughts?</p>

<p>they are a bit pricey, i think he wants something less than 400, because i had mentioned the rebels (not a point and shoot i know but he was thinking about a dslr anyway) thanks though the g series looks like it is exactly what he wants so i will let him know...</p>

<p>are there any point and shoot cameras that have a an optical view finder? the only ones that have it appear to be the ones with the super optical zoom and supposedly the picture quality is poor... any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers!!</p>

<p>Aloha! I am lucky enough to be in Hawaii for the summer and for the rest of the week I am going to try and take photos of sunset and twilight at the beach.. I would like to know the best iso fstop settings ect to get an image that really pops... Any suggestions?</p>

<p>So I have been doing some work for a new local enterainment type guide to city night life here in Philadelphia. Its actually a perfect type of situation since I am very new to all of this stuff so I do it for free and I get to retain the rights to the photos for my own personal portfolios, I get to see my name in a magazine, and have something for my resume. That being said they asked me to shoot a fundraiser concert for the Ameican Cancer Society. I have never in my life shot a concert, other then point and shoots of shows my and I friends go to. Things I am afraid of: changing lighting in the stage area, as well as the fact that I only have 3 lenses to my name and I already know one is entirely useless. So I own a 28-135mm lens and a 50mm prime (both are canon and have a fast shutter speed), and I have an EOS 40D camera. So I am looking for ways to compensate for the changing light and the fact that my focal range is slightly limted (one of the things I read said a 70-200 zoom is a must, and I honestly can't afford to buy a new lens at the moment) An suggesions? ~chEERS!</p>

<p>So I have decided that I am going to go out everyday to shoot at least 50-100 photos, however I have come to the conclusion that the idea is a good one but to give me some great shots I should be going out with an agenda of what to shoot... ie: today I am going out and shooting only interesting looking doors (I did that yesterday) However it seems my creativity is at an all time low today so I am having trouble coming up with my task for today. That being said I pose the question to you, on this lovely day in Philadelphia PA, what would you go out to shoot?</p>

<p>hmm.. larry, how much would you want for the vivitar? also has anyone successfully used a mirror lens for a macro shot? i understand they sometimes make weird donut shapes in the backround but other than that how are the close ups? or would i just be better off getting a 50mm canon lens and a reverse ring/tubes (i like the idea of the canon 50mm rather than a dedicated macro because it would be good for portraits among other things and it would be the most versitile solution right?)</p>

<p>does any one have a close up macro type shot using this lens?</p>