mizuho_saito

<p>I'm glad you worked it out. RAW files must be sharpened in pp unfortuneately. If this is a problem for you then I would suggest you shoot mainly in jpeg like Jamie. BTW Jamie, I love the colors on that horse picture, was that with your landscape settings? If there are any other issues don't hesitate to post.</p>

<p>Hey thanks for the replies, I think I'll go with the eye-one display 2 since it seems to be just right, and it sits right in my price range.</p>

<p>I don't have a calibrator right now. I said I'm looking into buyting the xrtie eye-one display 2, sorry for the confusion.</p>

<p>I think I set my default sharpness to 5 or something like that. Try shooting with flash/good light if possible. Good luck!</p>

<p>Hi, I'm looking into purchasing a monitor calibrator for my monitors. I was just wondering what people were using and what they would recommend. Right now I'm looking at the xrite eye-one display 2 which is priced in my price range. I don't want to spend too much more than $250.</p>

<p>I think it really does depends on what happens to the camera right after it was submerged. You might be able to save it if it was turned off if you take the battery out and then rinse it in distilled water to get the salt out of the components. And in thereoy if you let it dry then it should work just fine, but something tells me this camera probably won't work =P</p>

<p>I think it really does depends on what happens to the camera right after it was submerged. You might be able to save it if it was turned off if you take the battery out and then rinse it in distilled water to get the salt out of the components. And in thereoy if you let it dry then it should work just fine, but something tells me this camera probably won't work =P</p>

<p>For low light I use 1600-3200 most of the times. I use the lowest possible ISO in to achieve the shutter speed I want. I have used 6400 a little too, but I wouldn't suggest not to unless you really have to. I also post process my images useing noiseware pro and shoot in raw. </p>

<p>I believe the new AF-S has a ontant focus speed whereas the older AF-D was based on the built in motor which results in quicker focus on all bodies D90 and up? D3 being twice as fast as the D90 I believe. There was a website with AF times somewhere.</p>

<p>Just make sure that you're tripod is reliable enough to hold this combination. A good tripod should have no problems.</p>

<p>Ah Duane you're right about the aperture being wide open. I was thinking about the lens when it's off of the camera. When you make an exposure the lens should stop down to whatever aperture you selected then open again.<br>

I find MF to be difficult especially for moving objects. But for still objects I believe the D60 should have the little helper thingy in the viewfiner where the exposure compensation appears? with the confirmation dot. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.</p>

<p>I believe the 7D is the mark of the next generation of cameras, which will probably be competing against the D400 (whenever it comes out) for the top spot of the APS-C level.</p>

<p>For company events personally I would like the extra reach of the 70-200 on the D90 and stick the 24-70 on the D700 for pretty much everything else in the normal range. There is minor problems on the corners in terms of falloff and sharpness of the 70-200 on FX but for practical use it's mostly likely negligible as the corners will normally be out of focus anyways. If you need anything wider than 24 on the D700 then you'll have to switch the 12-24 onto the D90. As for landscape I would use the 12-24 on your D90 since it's your widest angle.</p>

<p>Christina, I wouldn't worry to much about what glass you're using as long as you're happy with the results. However as your photography grows and as you experience the faster glass your apprication for faster glass and better build quality will become more apparent to you. I'm assuming you're using the 18-55 VR kit lens vs the 50 f1.8. If you shot 50mm at f3.5 with both lenses there shouldn't be too much of a difference (possible a little more blur on the 50 prime depending on shutter speed since the kit lens most likely has VR). Also the 50 1.8 is known to be a little soft at 1.8, but exceptionally sharp at 5.6. Usually any lens when compared and shot at the same settings will look fairly close to any identical comparisons however the 50 f1.8 doesn't have the best build quality. It's actually once of Nikon's cheapest and most easlily built lenses. </p>

<p>When compared to let's say the Nikkor 24-70 f2.8 or the 70-200 f2.8 there is a night and day difference in build quality when compared to the kit lenses. The AF performance is also significantly quicker on these pro lenses. Plus the pro lenses also has weather sealing, metal body, constant aperture, much more durable lens hood, and is heavier. However not everybody needs all of this extra luxury as the price increases dramatically and these are just small details. Kit lenses work just as well in sufficiently lighted situations, it's when the lights start to dim then the faster pro lenses start to show their true self.</p>

<p>I would probably not get the 50 1.8 for your D60 since you are limited to manual focus, the 35 1.8 would be much better IMO since it does AF. You would have to spend a lot more on the newer 1.4 50 AF-S if you wanted to get a fast 50mm. If you ever decide to upgrade to a newer body I would suggest that you get one with the built in motor (D80, D90, etc).</p>

<p>Kent I'm not sure if the birghter viewfinder is related to the aperture since on these digital cameras the aperture is always closed down to the smallest opening when viewing through the viewfinder (unless you use the DOF button). The aperture opens and closes when you make the exposure I believe (correct me if I'm wrong). I think the brighter viewfinder comes from how the lens elements are treated with coatings and the light transmittence in these lenses can be much more efficient as well. The size of the first element could also make a difference. I would think a 77mm front element would collect more light then a 52mm front element would.</p>

<p>Not everybody needs expensive proglass, but just remember that lenses hold their value much longer than the camera bodies, and most of the time you can sell your lenses at no or minimal loss. Sorry for such the long post.</p>

<p>Okay decided to RMA it today. I will have to buy from Adorama since B&H is out of stock. Hopefully my next copy will have no issues. Lol currently 0 for 2 in the $1800+ category.</p>

<p>I would only get the 14-24 if you plan to upgrade to FX anytime soon, which you don't sound like you will. I have used my friend's tokina 11-16 2.8 and it works well on the D90 which is what I would recommend as it almost goes as wide as the 10-24 and you already have the 18-24 covered by your 17-24 covered, so the 11-16 fits in perfectly. Plus the 11-16 is cheaper than the 10-24.</p>

<p>Hmm B&H seems to be out of stock on the 70-200 now, does anybody have any idea I would have to wait for a new one? I'm thinking I'll RMA for an exchange in a week, since I need the lens in a week for an event.</p>

<p>Okay it's me again. After I refunded my 24-70 f/2.8 I decided to go with the 70-200 f/2.8 instead since the 24-70 was out of stock again. I will eventually get both, but after re-evaluating my needs I will probably use the 70-200 much more for the time being. So I purchased the 70-200 f/2.8 from B&H and yet again I may have run into a slight defect. I find that when I auto focus from infinity to near the AF makes a high pitch whistling noise. I'm pretty sure that this is not supposed to happen, but was wondering if anybody else has seen this action before. I seems to be to only been when the auto focus focuses quickly and the noise is due to friction? I guess I'm just having bad luck. I defineately need this lens for next weekend and was wondering if anybody knows if this is infact a defect and if B&H will cross ship me an exchange or should I just RMA it after my event since I have 15 days to return/exchange it? The auto focus is quick and doesn't seem to have any sides effects from this noise? It's just the noise is a little noisy and I don't want to have problems in the future with the lens. In the linked video the noise actually isn't that loud, it's just the camera was a little close but it is definately noticeable when I have my eye up to the viewfinder. I already know about the click and whirling noise of the VR and that doesn't bother me as much as the high pitch whistling. I will exchange this lens for another one, but was wonder if anybody else has had this problem and has exchanged with B&H before and how smooth their experience was with them.</p>

<p>

<p>I'm not returning for an exchange, because they don't have any in stock and probably will not recieve any within the next few weeks or so. Also I can always just buy another one when the get it in stock or buy from adorama or anywhere else I find that gets it in stock first. Adorama's stock of 24-70s seemed to last a little longer than B&H which only lasted a day. A full refund just gives me more options.</p>

<p>Okay I have decided to return the lens for a refund seeing that the lens seems to be out of stock once again. I'll have to wait till the next shipment or to go for something else, the 70-200 perhaps.</p>

<p>So i have the option to return the lens to B&H since it's only been a couple of days which is what I'm thinking of doing. I will shoot with it tomorrow at a family dinner to see how things go, but I'm leaning towards returning it which is a bummer since I had planned to use it heavily in a couple of weeks. The only problem is I don't think I would be able to exchange it at B&H since they are out of stock and Adorama just ran out of stock. It looks like it'll be a few months again before anywhere gets them in stock. I may just have to sit and wait like I did before. I would still like to hear from 24-70 owners though and compare if anybody has experienced this little issue before of the shutter stuttering before achieving focus lock.</p>

<p>I am currently uploading a video on youtube as a demonstration. I get the same results on any AF setting, currently set up as single point focus on AF-Single. I can definitely hear the lens focus when put to eye level. This happens at all focus ranges at every zoom range. The focus mechanism shifts slightly when stuttering.<br>

In this particular photo the zoom is zoomed out to 70 and the focus is fairly close. Sound maybe be amplified a little because the camera is sitting on my desk. I can upload more videos if you would like with different settings and zoom ranges etc.</p>

<p>*post deleted*</p>

<p>I have one more question for owners of this lens. When you are focusing does anybody else hear the motor stutter as it travels the last few millimeters? Is this normal for Nikon AF-S lenses/ 24-70s? Or do other users experience a completely silent focus that just snaps right to the right focus without the last bit of stuttering? It's kind of hard to explain what I'm talking about, but I'm pretty sure you will know what I'm talking about if your lens does it.</p>

<p>I have one more question for owners of this lens. Near the end of the focusing does anybody elses 24-70 seem to stutter a little (like it'll snap to the focus range quickly, then move a few millimeters at the very end of focusing before coming to a stop) as the lens settles before it focuses? Or does it just snap to focus instantly and sharply. Is this typical for AF-S lenses? It's kind of hard to explain what I'm talking about, but I'm pretty sure you will know what I'm talking about if your lens does it. </p>