michael_ty1

Hi Jorge. I saw your most recent post to the flickr thread. Sorry it didn't work out for you. You mentioned though that you turn on the camera and the flash before inserting the flash in the camera. I don't think that's the right way. I think you turn off both camera and flash, insert the flash, turn on the camera, then turn on the flash. Perhaps that might work for you.

Best regards,

Michael

<p>Answers to #1 and #2 from an LP160 owner:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157624737923255/</p>

<p>1. LP160's digital slave mode can sync with TTL to 1/250.<br>

2. With CLS commander mode, LP160's slave syncs up to 1/100.<br>

Re #3, I've tested with a different manual flash (YN-560), and it appears that TTL would not take into account the contribution of light from the LP160 (or YN-560).</p>

<p>Hi Jorge. Initially I thought maybe there was insufficient power (perhaps you were bouncing or something) but since you say that it doesn't have that problem in manual mode, then power is not the issue. Got a couple of questions:<br>

1. Please see the link I provided before - can you confirm your shots are dimmer than those?<br>

2. What happens if you increase flash exposure compensation? Does the flash respond?<br>

3. It is possible that the main contact is connected to your hotshoe, but the TTL contacts are not connecting properly. Have you tried making sure the flash is fully seated in the hot shoe? <br>

I think it might be a defect but I find it incredible that you would receive two defective units. Unfortunately I don't have a Yn465 to test. You may want to check out the Flickr yongnuo user group and post a message there:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/groups/yongnuo/<br>

Best regards,<br>

Michael</p>

<p>I don't have an SB-600 but to my knowledge, the sensor on the Sb-600 works only with CLS AWL. It doesn't have an SU-4 mode (unlike the SB-800 or SB-900). <br>

Regarding the original question, yes an SC-28 TTL cord would allow a D5000 to use the SB-600 off-camera. Also consider the SC-29 which adds the AF-assist light.</p>

<p>Roxanne, I hope this video helps:<br>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XYMgZwWkHw&feature=related<br>

If not, pls. indicate where you're stuck.</p>

<p>@Hans, evidently Roxanne copied the instructions from Ken Rockwell, where he was talking about a D200 and a D70.</p>

<p>Hi Jorge. I would like to try to help with your original question. You posted a sample of a shot without flash. Is that to show that the YN465 did not fire, or do you have a sample of the underexposed shot? Is the YN465 also consistently underexposed (for example, always 1/3 or 2/3 stop underexposed)?<br>

For comparison purposes, someone showed his shots with the YN465 here: http://speedlights.net/2010/06/08/more-i-ttl-pictures-with-yongnuo-yn-465/</p>

<p>David H. just posted a review of the YN-560: <a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2010/08/test-drive-yongnuo-yn-560.html">http://strobist.blogspot.com/2010/08/test-drive-yongnuo-yn-560.html</a> so there's no need to be upset anymore :)<br>

Some of the questions raised in the comments on David's article are answered here: <a href="../photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Wztn">http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Wztn</a></p>

Harry, it's currently around $80 on "that certain auction site."

Best regards,

Michael

I'm a guy who likes value. When I find a good value I like to tell others about it because in my view it improves the efficient allocation of limited resources however slightly. For you to accuse me of dishonestly hiding my intentions is incredibly outrageous.. Think about that in the context of the golden rule. Since you are such a staunch advoxate of using first-party products would you appreciate it if I accused you of being a nikon or canon shareholder and giving misinformation about 3rd party products for your personal benefit? Wow. Cut down on whatever substance you are abusing, will you?

<P>

Due to your disrespectful tone, I choose not to communicate with you further. In any case the info is out there.

Whoa, relax, Frank. Why the hostility? I posted info about this flash because it may be useful to hotshoe flash users. I'm not sure why you consider this a piece of junk. This flash has been well received. Is the LP160 a piece of junk as well? Many people use manual flashes for various reasons.

Peace be with you.

P.s. I don't sell this flash and I'm not affiliated with any seller.

Hi all. I got a manual flash that is built fairly well and has a very reasonable cost: the Yongnuo YN-560. I did a search but didn't find a substantive discussion about it, hence this post.<P>

<P>

My favorite features:<P>

1. The "real" guide number based on flashmeter tests by users is about the same as a Nikon SB-900: around 33 meters for 35mm zoom at 100 ISO.<P>

2. Very fast recycle times: below 2 seconds at full power using rechargeable batteries.<P>

3. User-friendly interface with dedicated controls for most functions, making adjustments quick and easy.<P>

4. Optical sync (both normal and "digital") detects infrared light, and works well even in daylight (unlike its predecessors).

Power is adjustable in 1/8 stop increments.<P>

There's a detailed review of the YN-560 at speedlights.net:<P>

http://speedlights.net/2010/05/25/yongnuo-yn-560-discovered/ <P>

<P>

My first impressions: http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/07/yong-nuo-yn-560-first-impressions-and.html <P>

Drop test here (sad but true): http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/07/yongnuo-yn-560-drop-test.html <P>

<P>

The YN-560 has some unusual sync properties:<P>

1. On-camera, my camera is unaware that a flash is attached, allowing the use of a shutter speed that exceeds the sync speed.<P>

2. Somehow, it's able to sync with my D300 (whether on-camera or in optical slave mode) at up to 1/320 (vs. D300's 1/250 natural sync speed), with only a very slight reduction in intensity.<P>

3. Although the published specs state that the flash duration at full power is 1/200, I've shot at up to 1/640 with no noticeable decrease in power, and up to 1/800 with only a very slight decrease in power. I used a point-and-shoot with an electronic shutter, and I didn't test shutter speeds above 1/800. <P>

4. The YN-560 can sync with Nikon CLS but only with particular combinations of settings. The settings are described here in detail: http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/07/how-to-sync-yn-560-with-nikon-cls.html <P>

<P>

I think the YN-560 is a good option for those who are also considering the Lumopro LP160 given the price difference between the two. For reference, the LP160 was discussed here:

http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Wes3

<P>

<P>

I had asked some questions about the LP160 that may be of interest here: <P>

1. Can the digital slave mode sync at a shutter speed of 1/250? <P>

Answer: yes if the popup flash is on TTL or manual mode (in fact, it can sync to 1/320). <P>

2. If I use CLS advanced wireless lighting, does the [YN-560's] digital slave mode still sync correctly? <P>

Answer: yes but only if certain settings are used, and the shutter speed is 1/125 or slower. <P>

3. Assuming the [YN-560] syncs correctly, does it make the flash exposure inaccurate in TTL mode? <P>

Answer: TTL does not take into account the contribution from the YN-560 and therefore TTL accuracy may be compromised.<P>

<P>

<p><strong>TTL Flash Tutorial in 10 Lessons</strong><br>

A simple tutorial for learning to control and use TTL flash, with exercises to demonstrate concepts. Covers basic to intermediate TTL flash techniques.<br>

Part 1 of tutorial here: http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/06/ttl-flash-tutorial-in-10-lessons-part-1.html<br /> <br /> Part 2 of tutorial here: http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/07/ttl-flash-tutorial-in-10-lessons-part-2.html<br /> <br /> Part 1: Controls<br /> Lesson 1: Ambient vs. Flash<br /> Lesson 2: How exposure settings affect TTL flash<br /> Lesson 3: How to control TTL flash<br /> Lesson 4: Balancing Flash and Ambient<br /> Lesson 5: Flash Value Lock <br /> <br /> Part 2: Application<br /> Lesson 6: Hard Light vs. Soft Light; Bouncing the Flash<br /> Lesson 7: Using the Flash Off-Camera<br /> Lesson 8: Subject vs. Background; Key vs. Fill; Contrast<br /> Lesson 9: Color; color temperature and gels<br /> Lesson 10: Lighting depth of field</p>

<p>Hi Parv. I'm not sure if your reply is meant to respond to my queries, but if it is, you've got me beat because I can't figure out the answers to my questions after having read those sites you referenced. I am aware that the LP160 is manual. I'm hoping to be able to use it manually while using the SB-800 on TTL (triggered via CLS AWL), hence my latter 2 questions. <br>

As for my first question, part of the reason I'm interested in the LP160 is to overpower bright ambient conditions. In that regard, if the highest sync speed I can use to sync correctly with the LP160 digital slave mode is significantly slower than my current 1/250 sync speed, it may diminish the advantage of having the extra stop or so of [total] power I gain when both LP160 and SB-800 are being used together as a single light source.<br>

Best regards,<br>

Michael</p>

<p>Congratulations on your purchase, Richard. I'm interested in the LP160 as well. My concern is how well it can work together with CLS (I have a D300 and use its popup as commander for an SB800). I understand the LP160 has a digital slave mode that ignores preflashes. I've got a few questions:<br>

1. Can the digital slave mode sync at a shutter speed of 1/250?<br>

2. If I use CLS advanced wireless lighting, does the LP160's digital slave mode still sync correctly?<br>

3. Assuming the Lp160 syncs correctly, does it make the flash exposure inaccurate in TTL mode? What I mean is that the TTL system uses the preflash to determine the correct flash exposure. If the LP160 doesn't fire during the preflash phase, then the TTL is in effect ignoring the LP160's contribution.<br>

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.<br>

Best regards,<br>

Michael</p>

<p>I took some test shots to evaluate vignetting, the accuracy of the exposure reduction from the ND filters, color cast. Results here: http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/05/fotodiox-generic-cokin-p-type-filters.html<br>

I think they're ok for casual use so long as you're aware of their limitations.</p>

<p>Outdoors, with no suitable bouncing surface, you may want to try using a handheld umbrella.<br>

Here's one that's a purpose-built handheld bracket:<br>

http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2010/05/ultimate-handheld-umbrella-propet.html<br>

Here's one assembled using a typical umbrella and typical bracket:<br>

http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2009/07/h2u-best-light-modifier.html</p>

<p>I switched from Pentax to Nikon, so some features I wish for in Nikon are:<br>

in-body image stabilization<br>

a shutter+aperture priority mode (leaving the camera to determine ISO)<br>

an ISO priority mode (leaving the camera to determine aperture and shutter).<br>

a button to set exposure to the program exposure when in manual mode.<br>

a menu to specify how program exposure is selected (e.g. biased toward wider aperture, faster shutter speed, highest resolution based on MTF data, etc.)</p>

<p>One feature I wish for is a 1/500 sync speed like the D70 (my sync speed is 1/250).</p>

<p>One feature I'd like that's not present yet in any camera I'm aware of is wireless flash control via radio.</p>

Alvin, I've used a handheld umbrella to get soft directional lighting both indoors and outdoors. I don't use a shoulder-mounted umbrella, though. Here are some of my results:

Outdoors:

http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2009/07/h2u-best-light-modifier.html

and

http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2009/10/upping-ante-by-adding-soft-light-to.html

Indoors:

http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2009/07/h2u-indoors.html

Best regards,

Michael

<p>Yes, the SG-3IR reduces the range of the commander flash in advanced wireless mode. From my informal tests, the reduction in range is about 1/3 to almost half (depending on the circumstances) compared to a bare popup flash:<br>

http://betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2009/08/flash-eliminates-blinks-sg-3ir-flash.html<br>

However, even with the reduced range, I found that CLS works from as far away as 45 feet (daylight) to 75 feet (night) (YMMV) which hopefully is far enough for your purposes.</p>