tylerfj24

<p>I have been having this same problem as well. But my question is, how do I keep this from happening in the first place? I mean in camera. Do I have to leave more room in the photo or is this something that will never be fixed. How can I consistently get good 8x10s out of my camera?</p>

<p>Thanks alot WW<br>

Oh yeah is there anyplace that explains the CF buttons(all of them) in english so I know what they all mean and the advantages of having them?</p>

 

<p>Thanks for the help guys. As far as those custom functions #2 #3 and such, I am totally ignorant in that area of the camera. I just dont understand it or how to set them, or the help it would give me. Decoupling the shutter and such same thing, I read on these custom functions yesterday and just dont understand what would change on the buttons and where? And if you did set them to custom, then would you lose the functions of the buttons and what they do now, if so where would I go to use them if I needed them. If you understand that part I would appreciate any help from you on these topics.<br>

Thanks<br>

Tyler</p>

 

<p>Ok Ill start at the top and try to account for each persons ideas and maybe it will help everyone.<br>

My camera was in shutter priority mode at the shutter speeds I stated in the question above. Ill look into the shutter lock thing I havent heard of that.<br>

As far as the shutter button itself, it works fine now and anytime but at the game.<br>

No it wasnt on self timer.<br>

I tried different af points, I use the middle one mostly, but I tried them all with the same result.<br>

David Haas seems like the best answer so far. Dave the soccer team in question had on all white uniforms and it was in the middle day sun, very bright everywhere, not my ideal shooting light. Thats exactly what it felt like it was doing, looking for somthing to take. <br>

Anyone have any info on the 28-135 doing this or any other info on this happening. I thought it might be that I was trying to take photos at 1/1000th of a sec at iso 250 and f/5.6 and up?<br>

Thank you for your answers</p>

<p>I couldnt find a way to search for my problem on here so I am going to just ask it. I was at a soccer game yesterday right in the middle of the day to boot, it was harsh sunlight and plenty of light. I am using a Canon 50d with a 28-135 IS on a monopod. I used the lens with and without the IS and manual and auto focus. I also tried playing with all different focus points. I used high continuous frames per second and I switched between ONE Shot, AI Focus, and AI Servo and got the same result after trying all different options. I took shots using 1/640, 1/800, and 1/1000th of a second. Now I am stuck. <strong>HERE IS</strong> <strong>THE QUESTION</strong>. I was following my subject through the lens throught out all parts of the game and every time I tried to take a photo(action shot) I would push the shutter button and it would literally take a second or three to start taking the photo. Sometimes I would just hold the shutter down and it wouldnt fire for a few seconds then all the sudden seemed like just when the shot was over it would fire burst of shots. I cant figure out why its doing this, unless its my lens or the body. I can only come to the conclusion of the lens. Because I would zoom out and most of the time it would fire when I pressed the button, like I wanted it to.? I am getting ready to order a Canon 70-200mm 2.8 lens but if my camera is going to act like this Im not sure if I want to dump the money into it yet. <br>

PS: For what its worth I shot a football game the day before and it was at 5pm and I didnt have a problem with it but I cant remember what settings I was using. Come to think of it they werent moving like the soccer players were though.<br>

Thanks for all your help, please tell me its not my camera.</p>

 

<p>Thanks WW</p>

<p>Well Im stuck on F/4 IS and F/2.8 non IS. The way I see it is if there is a time when I drop down to the 1/100's or slower I can always use a tripod or monopod, and obviously IS has not always been around. Or I will not need the extra stop but I would like the IS? I was outside at a soccer game taking photos at 5.6 and when the shade came over me it just became a hastle to try and stop motion, I hated that. Honestly I can say that I do not think I will ever have either lens inside at a sporting event, however I will be outdoors at sporting events, but I wonder at what part of the day the F/4 will start to be a problem? But I am usually out taking photos of animals and nature most of the time, sometimes I catch myself at a game but its definitly not the reason for the lens. Either lens will do for ordinary shooting, but its at the 1/500's or more Im worried about? I cannot afford the 2.8 IS so its not an option.</p>

<p>Thanks for all your answers, but Im not going to be shooting inside all the time, actually I hardly ever shoot indoors. Im just stuck on this one. I'm not sure if Ill need the 2.8 but I want to know how much it will effect me all around if I go with the f/4. Also, if I go with the f/2.8 NON IS how would that effect my everyday use, I mean how slow of a shutter speed usually has someone lugging a tripod around, I know if I shoot sports at high speeds I can handhold, but if Im walking around with the 2.8 will I have a bunch of blurry photos or is it ok for that? I have never owned a NON IS lens and it scares me a bit, especially with this much money involved. Also I do not have camera shops around here to go try things out. I guess another way to put it is, when will I wish I had an IS lens?</p>

<p>Thanks for all your answers, but Im not going to be shooting inside all the time, actually I hardly ever shoot indoors. Im just stuck on this one. I'm not sure if Ill need the 2.8 but I want to know how much it will effect me all around if I go with the f/4. Also, if I go with the f/2.8 NON IS how would that effect my everyday use, I mean how slow of a shutter speed usually has someone lugging a tripod around, I know if I shoot sports at high speeds I can handhold, but if Im walking around with the 2.8 will I have a bunch of blurry photos or is it ok for that? I have never owned a NON IS lens and it scares me a bit, especially with this much money involved. Also I do not have camera shops around here to go try things out. I guess another way to put it is, when will I wish I had an IS lens?</p>

<p>I am debating on getting the canon 70-200 f/4 IS or the F/2.8 IS. I know you all have seen this a hundred times but I cant find a question like this so please read on.<br>

I am leaning toward getting the f/4 IS and I will be putting it on a Canon 50d. Now the 50D that I use does very well at highers ISOs and Im not afraid to shoot at them. My question is what ISO would I have to shoot at to get the same affect of a F/2.8? If I go into a gym to shoot a game and of course the F/4 wont work, what ISO would I need to be at to shoot around 1/500 of sec and get decent lighting in the pictures? I ask because if its not that High of an ISO then I can save alot of money buying the F/4 and the little I may use indoors it still can be done with acceptable results.</p>

<p>I am debating on getting the canon 70-200 f/4 IS or the F/2.8 IS. I know you all have seen this a hundred times but I cant find a question like this so please read on.<br>

I am leaning toward getting the f/4 IS and I will be putting it on a Canon 50d. Now the 50D that I use does very well at highers ISOs and Im not afraid to shoot at them. My question is what ISO would I have to shoot at to get the same affect of a F/2.8? If I go into a gym to shoot a game and of course the F/4 wont work, what ISO would I need to be at to shoot around 1/500 of sec and get decent lighting in the pictures? I ask because if its not that High of an ISO then I can save alot of money buying the F/4 and the little I may use indoors it still can be done with acceptable results.</p>

<p>Annette, Get a 50d, Its great and if you end up not liking photography that much then you can resell it and prob make a profit. If you love it then you have a top of the line dslr that can handle any situation you come across, and you will have all the newest usefull functions and a HD screen all at your fingertips and you will not be so behind when you decide to upgrade. Which you will as soon as you see what everyone else is shooting with. Good Luck, have fun.</p>

<p>Hey thanks for your answers but I guess I confused everyone with my question. I do not need a flash meter, due to the answers I just got. I need a LIGHT METER. I guess I worded it wrong, but I need a light meter for non flash use, I needed to know if the meter would work with either one of the flashes as well, but now I guess I wont need a meter for the flash so that answers part 1.<br>

So my question is still as before, what would be a good LIGHT METER for someones first meter.</p>

<p>Hey everyone, I have searched the site and got a few tips and recomendations but I thought Id ask a question for me.<br>

I have a canon 50d and Im about to get my first flash. Im torn between the 430ex II and 580ex II. Ive read all about them and I know the specs on each system. My question is what is a good affordable first meter for someone with my setup, and also will it matter what flash I get first as to what light meter to get first. I mean will one meter work better with a certain flash, or are they a completely personal choice on what to get.<br>

So can you all tell me what meter you would suggest to a beginner in this area (easiest to use) or best for the buck. Also would you get one flash over the other ( only because of the meter)?<br>

Thanks for all your help.</p>

 

<p>I am actually looking for my first ND filter myself. I have been reading alot of articles over the past few days, and I think I want two possible three nd filters. What is the best setup if anyone of you could go back and get a set of two or three nd filters what would you choose and why.<br>

I am becoming interested in these because I want to start blurring water and streams, I went out the other day and kept blowing out my highlights and I couldnt get even close to what I wanted, so I dont even know where to start? I am using a canon 50d.</p>

<p>I just moved up to a dslr not to long ago and I know that I have never shot with a ff body, so Im not really following you all on how the f4 on a crop body would effect anything? I mean why would a f/4 on a ff be different than on a crop sensor. You still get what you shoot, I mean on a crop sensor just back up a bit right?<br>

Anyway<br>

thanks for all the info, I will be researching for more.</p>

<p>I noticed that I could probably get the 17-40 L cheaper than the 17-55 yesterday? Is there any reason for this. I mean most people would just buy the L lens because its an L, but besides the extra 15mm is there any reason not to buy the 17-40L over the 17-55mm. I use the 50D with a 1.6 factor.</p>

<p>Im just starting to use polarizers and filters, and I was outside taking photos with my circ polar. on and wondered how this would effect me white balance?<br>

Can anyone tell me what white balance you would use outdoors with a circular polarizer and a warming filter anytime?<br>

Also do you set the white balance before or after you put the filters on, and does it matter when or what white balance you use when I set it on my dslr?<br>

I mean I have sunny, cloudy, shade, ect. should you mess with it at all or do you use it just as you would with no filter at all.<br>

By the way I use a canon 50d.<br>

Thank you all.</p>

<p><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=657840"><strong><em>Scott Ferris</em></strong></a><strong><em> Tyler, please just look in your exif and see which you use more, it really is as easy as that.</em></strong><br>

<strong><em>Scott </em></strong>how do I look in my exif, ive not heard of that acronym? I do thank you for your help and I do agree with you, but I am still new to this venture and Im not sure I have enough pics in my gallery to really tell me what I use more. Most of my photos are outdoors in natural light. <br>

Which lens is built better?<br>

I have a photo shoot and I will be shooting my brothers graduation photo and my friends newborn photos, one outdoors the other indoors. i would like to get one lens to do both and have great photos.<br>

I just got some pics back from the lab and I am noticing some cropping issues that I am not used to with this camera, I am now afraid that the 85mm will be to close to use indoors, and with the 50mm I can always move closer to get the photo that I want. Now I would really like to know if the 50mm is built good and sturdy or is the 85 built better.<br>

Thanks again for your help</p>

<p>By the way, which lens is built better?</p>

<p>Wow thanks everyone for the great responses.<br>

<strong><em>DN: It at least partially depends upon your subjects and the way you like to see them. Aside from any image quality discussion, any 50mm will have a different angle of view and telephoto compression effect than any 85mm lens.</em></strong><br>

Can you elaborate on this, I dont know what you mean by all the compression and angle of view. No one else has ever said this before.<br>

Anyway I am the guy who likes to do the research by the best and be done with it. My wallet is not unlimited so I have to do it this way. I will need the lens for all types of light. I have not taken any portraits indoors yet. But I have to take some graduation portraits outdoors and I have to take portraits of a newborn indoors, I love to blur the background and like to fill the frame with the photos I take. However I do see myself taking portraits and pics of ppl mostly from the chest and shoulders up, hardly ever a full body shot. If this makes a difference please let me know. Again thanks everyone.</p>

<p>First of all I cannot afford a L series lens so lets not get carried away and start comparing or going off on tangents about them. <br>

Now I have a 28-135 lens and would like to get into portraits of all kinds. I have narrowed what I think would be my best two options, the 50 or the 85?<br>

I would like to have at least one prime in my bag and have read great things about these two, both are in my price range and are said to be sharp and have pretty good Fs. Please I would like to hear all opinions on these and if anyone has a better option please feel free to tell me and I will explore that option as well.<br>

By the way I use a canon 50d.</p>

<p>I was just lookin on ebay for one and there are like 4 or 5 different picture mates? Snap, dash, zoom, ect. Which one should I get, I mean the one on epsons site looks like a cooler but the pics of the ones on ebay look a little more stylish. Which one do you all prefer. I know one burns cds but what about the other, or are they all the same?</p>

<p>How many prints can you get from one of these printers?<br>

I have an epson artisan 800 and for 4x6 prints It does very well, but if I have alot of pics to print I will be buying 8 cartridges of ink weekly, and that gets costly.<br>

Im looking into those right now, thank you all.</p>

<p>Thanks bob, my pics are taken with a canon 50d and it takes up to 15 MP limit but the size is over the 1500x1500. How do I change that? Do I have to go into each pic and change them one by one and what program do you use to do this.<br>

Also will my pictures always be changed to this size, and wont that hurt their quality when I get them printed?<br>

Or do I have to shoot them with a preset determintation of size?<br>

Thanks for all your help.</p>