david_hunter5

<p>Hello, I have been using Photoshop CS3 for several years and been very happy, I used Bridge as my main browser. I recently upgraded to Lightroom 4, and this past weekend to CS6 though I have yet to open it. After using Lightroom for several weeks it has occurred to me that I’m still in the Bridge mindset where I think it is an index of my hardrive, but in realityLightroom only has what I’ve imported. I’ve also begun to realize that I seem to be missing a step in my new workflow that wasn’t a problem before. When I do some basic edits in lightroom and then export and open in Photoshop (CS3) I will make some more adjustments (not available in lightroom) and then save the file , sometimes I also then make a email version since I’m right their with the file and save that as well. I’ve gone back to lightroom and neither of those files are in the system unless I import them agian. Have I missed a communication step between the two programs?</p>

<p>I will say that I’ve been having to export to photoshop becasue of lightrooms 2012 process. I’m using files from a Nikon D800 and CS3 doesn’t see them otherwise or does not recognize the 2012 process if I try to send to photoshop from lightroom. That might be fixed with CS6</p>

<p>I haven't found the time yet for the learning curve for the software HDR effects. I would say that if I'm going to spend the money on such a great camera I should at least know if some of the extra features like in-camera HDR are worth exploring. The camera did do a much better job than be trying to bracket and combine photos elsewhere with my limited experience in Photoshop doing such a thing.</p>

<p>I've been shooting my D800 for nature photography and really love it. The last couple of weekends I was playing around with the in camera HDR which from my understanding cannot be done in RAW. I was turning it off and on as needed and at the time of the shot the camera takes an extra second or two to process, but I can't seem to find anywhere in the file data if the shot was HDR processed or not after that, especially like in bridge and/or lightroom. Am I missing something?</p>

<p>Dan,<br>

<br />Thanks for the comments. you are on the right track. I would e-mail, but I'm most often dealing with government clients with limited computer storage space and often we are talking a 100 or more photos. I've been looking at the Flickr settings a little more and it looks like I can mark the photos as private and send out a guest pass to the that set/collection. This is most likely what I will do since I don't want the photos showing up in my main photostream.</p>

<p>I’m a pro nature photographer (still a side job) and has been getting more work lately doing different work for biologists and botanists. I post my good stuff on my flickr site, but I’m starting to wonder if I should set-up a secondary flickr site just for identification purposes. The advantage of this if to give my clients easy access to images that won’t take up memory on their computers, and it would allow them to be interactive. This way I could direct my clients to this site and they could see the photos and type in ids for plants and animals and then I can change the information on the master file before I send it to them. Essentially a proofing site on the identification side. If anyone knows of a different solution I’m open to that, but I will say that I don’t have the time or knowledge to create my own website at this point in time. I’m not terribly interested in password protecting because there won’t be anything that valuable and I will only share the address with the client. I’m also not looking for them to order anything from the site; most of the shots would be simple secondary shots of a flower’s petals or a close-up of an insect and not stuff that I would regularly post on my main site.</p>

<p>I'm working on the professional side even though it is not my main income, so I'm looking for a policy that will cover it fully without being a rider because it is my business.</p>

 

<p>I've been shooting in caves for the last two years and have not had a problem with condensation only once out of 30+ caves. I also switch lens all the time (macro and then extension tubes) mostly off trail work. The above responses are correct as far as temperature, let your camera adjust for a while if at all possible. If your in the caves all the time the dust eventually becomes an issue, but it doesn't sound like your going in that often.<br>

You can see examples of my cave photos at CaveLifePhoto.com</p>

<p>Does anyone on this forum have their equipment insured through the NANPA program, IF so how do you like it, do you find it reasonalbe.</p>

<p>Hugh,<br>

Thanks for the idea. I'm in Fresno so I'm not that far away from you. <br>

Thanks for everyone else for the ideas and keep them coming. </p>

<p>Besides being an avid nature photographer I’m also a third grade teacher. My school is offering electives this year for 3-6^th grade and I’m teaching Zoology/Ecology. One of the projects I have envisioned is based on the Dr. Suess story of the Lorax and the destruction of the environment through the chopping of the key piece of the habitat that supported the different animals. I’m looking for real-life examples of animals extinct or on the verge of because of their environment being altered, or them being hunted out. The animals/plants need to be relatively easy to research. I plan on giving the children a list and having them research what happened. Any suggestions? I'll take key plant or animal suggestions.</p>

<p>Yes, I have reformatted the card in camera, I was also shooting in the 2000's with the D1 and remember the prices and sizes of cards. When the camera says FL it won't shoot at all. I'm just wanting to know if there is a fix for this through firmware or if I should not even try because of the cost involved. It is not my main camera.</p>

<p>I have an older D1x that was recently given to me and I'm noticing that I can't put any memory card in it that is larger than 2gb, with the 2gb and the raw setting the camera says I only have 14 pictures available. If I put in a larger card the camera won't even fire, is this a firmware issue and if so is it worth upgrading compared to the cost of the camera?</p>

<p>At your age I would find a few professionals you really respect and love the work of and start seeing if they would be your mentor or work for them as an aid. (Even if you have to volunteer for a while) You will learn the fastest by doing that, and also by being politely aggressive towards your own work. You have nothing to loose, yes there are lots of other people with the same dream, but I've found the few things that separate the successful photographers from the hobbyist is the amount of time they commit to the work, and how persistent they are in always reaching for their goals. I’m now considered a professional and I’m starting to see my work take off, but at the same time I have two small children and a full-time non-photo job so the amount of time I can commit to the photography is less than I like. </p>

 

 

<p >I will be going into a cave on Tuesday in Sequoia National Park. This is a special access trip via the Park Service to document the invertebrates that live there. This is my first time photographing in caves, The caves are 50 degrees and relatively dry. I’m thinking if I keep my camera in the bag until I get into the cave I should be fine as far as humidity. Outside temp is going to be mid 90’s. I know coming out of the cave I should keep my camera in the bag until it has a chance to warm up again. Anyone have any thoughts? I'll mostly be doing macro work, possible some wide angles as well.</p>

 

 

<p>I've been shooting a lot of macro lately, and have needed to use extension tubes at times to get the needed magnification. The thought occurred to me, is it better to extend a 105mm macro, or a 60mm macro. Does it make any difference if DOF or anything else? I'm already aware of light loss, I'm using flash in both cases to help with that issue.</p><div></div>

<p>I just saw an hour-and a half presentation exactly on this subect at the North American Nature Photography Summit. The presenter was Kevin Adams, email him asking for his presentation notes (40 pages) and you will get all your questions answered! Here is his site with the astrophotography examples.<br>

http://www.kadamsphoto.com/cgi-bin/ImageFolio42/imageFolio.cgi?direct=240~Night_Sky_Astrophotography</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The best way to find raptors is to learn their habitats and behaviors. A great resource I've been reading lately is "Owls of the Untided States and Canada-A complete guide to thier Biology and Behavior" by Wayne Lynch. Another way is to look at your local library or via computer on the library system for books about behavior.</p>

<p>Douglas-The species is the Limestone Salamander-From what I understand it is only in a few locations if California and then Europe.<br>

Kent-Central California's winter's are quite mild compared to northern latitudes. The people that I've talked who have seen this species before have seen it during the x-mas bird count, so if anything I'm early.<br>

I appreciate all the great advice, keep it coming!</p>

 

<p>I wish I could approach from the water, I'll be working in the Merced River Canyon outside Yosmite Natioanal Park. I'm going after an endagered amphipain, so I'm still deciding if the trade of risk will be worth it. I've been told that the oak doesn't have any leaves this time of year, but I'll also be on possilbe tallus slopes. I have a good pair of fishing waders (for photogrpahy) but I'm concerned the boots attached won't of the hold I need for the possibly mossey rocks.</p>

<p>Any additional thoughts how to keep those oils off the camera body, I'm not sure I'm using a tripod, I'm going to be on a steep incline (river bank). Maybe a clear plastic bag over the body.</p>

<p>I'm going to go photograph some amphipians in an area known for posion oak, I'm going to have a spare set of clothes to change into afterwards, dispossable gloves, and some Technu, but how do I get the posion oak off my boots when I'm done? Any Thoughts?</p>

<p>As a resource I would head over to http://www.birdphotographers.net/, They have an education section that can answer some of your questions, and searching the posts will answer all the others. Arthur Morris has a few books that would also answer most of your questions.</p>

<p>I completely agree with Adrian Thyss. I shoot a lot of insects and I find the best approaches are to be patient and one thing not mentioned here yet is to use biology! If the insect is eating or mating they are going to be a lot less interested in what you are doing as the photographer. A 100mm or more macro lens is the perfect range because you don't have to be on top of your subject for the close up. If you move slowly you have less chance of spooking the subject. Also if flowers are involved, or with dragonflies/butterflies they often return to the same perch within 10 minutes, so wait them out. This time of year is amazing for insects on flowers, especially in the high country (mountains where the flowers are just coming out) I find a tripod to awkward for insect because I'm trying to get to their level and frequently changing camera position to maximize composition. I do use Nikon's macro flash system, but mostly as fill light for shadows. For examples see my site.<br>

www.flikr.com/photos/dvdhntr</p>

 

<p>Thanks for all these great respones. Keep them coming.</p>

<p>I'm teaching a a nature photogrpahy class in two weeks to people who will sign up while camping ( sort of like a ranger talk), needless to say experience and equipment will be greatly varied. I'm fully expecting some people only with point and shoot cameras. I'm seeking input from this forum on what nature photography tips I can give that would cut across most skill and certainly equipment ranges. Things like, Shoot with the sun over your shoulder. Any suggestions?</p>