lee_bown

<p>After years of performance and stability issues with Windows computers i bought a MacBook Pro 2.66ghz/4GB RAM last weekend.<br>

It might be early days, but i wish i had bought Mac sooner. It's fast, easy to configure and runs all my editing software smoothly. </p>

<p>Think i'm refering to the bellows lens hood here, and am trying to determine whether the G3 lens hood is a straight (albeit better) replacement for my current hood?</p>

<p>Quite a lengthy and interesting debate here. <br>

But, in a nutshell. Given i shoot a lot of landscape and non-studio portrait am i wasting my time getting an incident meter like the L-308?<br>

Would i be better off trying to spot meter with the 450D?</p>

<p>Mark, thanks for that. I have looked at the AE finder but the one's that seem to fit the Pro II are still very expensive. Additionally, i've heard mutterings about how difficult it is to compose shots when compared to the WLF? Light lost in the prism?</p>

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<p>I want to replace the hood with a new one as there is a small crumple in the creases.<br>

Was wondering if it's a simple job to fit this:<br>

<a href="http://www.mamiya.co.uk/popup.php?page=rzbelhood">http://www.mamiya.co.uk/popup.php?page=rzbelhood</a></p>

<p>Thanks for the all the responses.<br>

The Sekonic spot meters look like they are a little out of my price range, at the moment.<br>

Rick Donnelly makes good points about my camera and selected film. Looking at my Mamiya's shutter settings i certainly don't have the same flexibility as the 450D, however i can select half half-stop shutter speed increments.<br>

I'm thinking i might go for the Sekonic L-308 as he suggests and see how i get on.</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I've recently bought a second-hand Mamiya RZ67 Pro II with the 110mm Sekor lens, WLF and 120 film and Polaroid backs. It's all in lovely condition and am very pleased.<br>

However, being a relative newcomer to photography and having previously only used a Canon EOS 450D, i'm finding that calculating exposure for the Portra 160NC film i'm using is quite difficult. My DSLR certainly doesn't seem to be giving me readings i can use on the Mamiya.<br>

As a result, i'm thinking about investing in a light meter? Possibly the Sekonic L-358 on the basis that it's the most reasonably priced model that provides aperture priority mode.<br>

I mainly shoot landscapes and this a hobby rather than profession so it's unlikely it will ever be used in a studio set-up.<br>

Any advice on whether the light meter (and specifically the L-358) is the right way to go would be much appreciated.</p>

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