paul_nicol

<p>You might want to try the video form here on Photo.net or something like <a href="http://www.cinema5d.com/">http://www.cinema5d.com/</a> </p>

<p>I have had the problem with an off brand lens. Never bothered to fix it as it wasn't an expensive lens. I just took the lens off the camera when not in use. If it was the TS-E 90 I would send it in for repair as it is worth it to my mind.</p>

<p>As noted above, Phottix Odin does second curtain in manual. Just tried it to make sure.</p>

<p>Thanks Daniel.</p>

<p>In a world full of cross process, HDR, tone mapped, multi layered assembled images, black and white, selective focus, and clever cropping / composition, unrealistic saturation, and what else have you, the last thing I would worry about is if it looks fake. If it’s your vision and you enjoy it then do it. If others like it then all the better. Those that set boundaries limit their own imagination. You don’t have to like all of it but realize it is part of photography and much of it always has been. I don’t care for tone mapped creations as a rule but every now and then I see something that I have to concede looks quite good. I have been using ND filters for quite a few years (film and digital) and enjoy the results I get. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9482333@N02/sets/72157629766661843/with/756380513/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/9482333@N02/sets/72157629766661843/with/756380513/</a><br>

My two cents…</p>

<p>If you shoot into a mirror you will see it but in practical lighting photography the pre-flash doesn't seem to show up. I use it with some frequency and have never had a problem with it. I use 1 to 5 flashes with and without light modifiers.</p>



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<p>I have used Helicon Focus. I also use camera remote to adjust the focus in small steps without touching the camera. Works quite well for anything where DOF is needed and the scene being photographed is static. Try the demo. it works very well</p>

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<p>Just a note.. The EZ series does not work with the ST-E2. Only Ex series in the 400+ to 500+ models. ie. 550EX</p>

<p>Just a thought, maybe Theresa might be thinking of a fisheye lens at closest focusing distance,, about 1 inch from the front of lens to subject (tokina 10-17). Although you are not getting 1:2 or 1:1 you will get a very wide view including the subject. It is quite dramatic effect. Simialar to some of the above posts just much closer</p>

<p>Yakim,<br />One other thing to keep in mind. If you use an adaptor vinetting will show up using the 50 1.8. A 50 f2 is more of a problem. It is not a problem at all with a 1.4 lens. I picked an old pentax 501.4 lens to try it myself. Worked fine. If you do use a 1.8 to off set you will have to use a small extension between lens and body. Taping the lens in place allows the 50mm lens to get a bit closer and thusly alleviate the problem a bit. As you zoom out to more magnification the problem goes away,, and so does dof.<br>

<br />Scott, <br />sorry my picture was not up to your standards. I will be sure to check with you first the next time.</p>

<p>Looking at the shot of the grass doesn’t seem to show any problem or at least very hard to find. The curtain shot is a bit better to analyze but I have a question. did you use mirror lockup and 2 second delay or a cable release. I ask because the shutter speed is .8 of a second. a candidate for vibration. maye a shot at a higher speed and use flash?</p>

<p>I took this shot (and others) on a cool morning. Moving slowly it allowed me to get close. I shot at f27 as dof is razor thin so that is why the need of flash.</p>

<p>I used a 100-300 with a 50 1.8 several years ago to get this shot<br /><a href=" />I did use a ring simialar to the one shown above. No tripod, but I do strongly recomend one, just flash to freeze motion.<br />Oh yes,, and it was REAL close. I would say about an inch. The detail in the eye is much greater in the original picture.</p>

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<p>Greg,<br>

I had a look at the first picture and noticed that you are shooting @ 1250 iso. I am presuming that you are shooting when the light is still low. Focus of the camera may not be optimal at that light level and that maybe why it has focused just short of the bird. Again iso 1250. Noise suppression and subsequent loss of detail is starting to show at 100%viewing. And again 100% viewing. Looking too close. The birds body only takes up about 450*460 pixels in this image. Not much detail in the bird can be captured at that size. Which brings us to,, you are quite far away from the bird for any meaningful shot. You have to get much closer to get that detail that you are looking for.<br>

 

<p>Personally I would not take the camera out for this distance with exception to just recording the scene, or taking a landscape shot with the bird(s) somewhere in it. Stick with the lens and learn how to use it to make better images. I am sure you will be happy with it once your get your technique down. I would leave canon service out if it till you have verified that the focus is truly off.</p>

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My two cents…</p>

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<p>What government agencies miss is the prolific use of photo equipment has actually led to the capture of an uncountable number of criminals and criminal activity on the premises of the public and private land/sites/business such as the CTA and otherwise. The only people who would not want a camera in their vicinity would be the criminals. Could it be that the CTA (and others) are trying to hide something? I know that is not really the case but this whole "photographers are criminals" created by the Bush administration and it’s proliferation through out North America and parts of Europe flies in the face of common sense. The more pictures the better should be their slogan.</p>

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<p> Or what Puppy said</p>

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<p>You will need<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/164267-REG/Canon_2447A001_Off_Camera_Shoe_Adapter_OA_2.html<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12267-REG/Canon_2388A001_Connecting_Cord_300_3m.html<br>

if you need more cable length then get...<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12419-REG/Canon_2431A001_TTL_Distributor_to_Connect.html<br>

and a second cable</p>

 

<p>You cannot connect the slave ex to the ez via cable and trigger the ez. That will take going from the camera hot shoe to the ez through the cable and the ex in the hotshoe to trigger the other ex (wireless). You will also only be working in manual as I don't think it works with ttl or ettl on newer digital cameras at least I haven't used it any other way. It will work in ttl with a film camera and the ex and ez flash combo. I have 3 ex's and the ez. When I am in need of 4 flash I will use the ez in this manner. You might want to just get another ex flash as it won't cost much more to do so than all the cable gear. I have had the stuff from years of acquiring equipment.</p>

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Not sure about Mac but for PC it is the space bar. Might be the same.

You are in an auto mode and the camera is setting the exposure. When pointed at the light the shutter speed is fast, when pointed down the shutter speed is slower thus the slowdown in shutter speed. In a nut shell there is nothing wrong.

I have found that anything at the shutter speed = focal length in motion will cause motion blur and for the most part keep the subject sharp. (Still need good technique though.) Generally speaking, any shorter than that and percentage of return will drop of. If you had used 1/100 for the shutter @ 400mm, I would think that you would have to have had great panning technique or a good amount of luck at work for you to get the picture you are looking for. I did a lot of auto racing a few years ago and kind of followed that rule with only a few deviations.

 

All that said, this photo is still a great shot with the capture the shock wave. I would have been grinning at this shot if it were mine.

My two cents...

http://www.pocketwizard.com/HTML/products.asp

 

I would think something like this would be your only option,, radio control. they have a little blurb on second curtian sync half way down the page. Good luck

Just speculation (sorry James, I'll never learn) but I think the second curtain sync will not work because the flash does not time the shutter event, the camera does. This would mean it would have to send another 'preflash' to tell the flash to fire while the shutter was just closing thus adding 2 flashes to the exposure instead of one. It would be quite a headache to control that one precisely I would think. My two cents.

Steve,

 

I agree with all of what you say and yes its true that single axis focus points should focus the subject within dof . But I have found, as I said about the elan cameras and the 10D, that if you use those focus points there are rare times that they will not reliably ?lock on?. The first time that I had this problem I thought the camera had broken. I checked it against my AE2 but that camera worked as it had 2 axis focus points. Then I found this site (back in 99). Through reading some of the technical info made available through here I found one comment about this happening and to rotate your camera 45 to 90 degrees and it will pick up the focus again,, has to do with being on or off axis. I tried it in test and found it to be true. I am not saying that this is Dotun?s problem but offer it as a possibility. As you have pointed out, proper testing would be his best course if it is that much of a problem to him.

Again my two cents.

I am not sure if it is the same problem but I had canon 鬡ns several years ago that did it as the outer focus points are not as sensitive as the center point. I now have 2 10D?s that will do it occasionally. I do use the center almost exclusively and recompose for this reason. Maybe the 30d has a similar focus system where the outer points are not as sensitive as the center. Must be some info somewhere on the net pertaining to this system.

As for the focus being off when recomposing from the center point, I have never had any problem doing so.

 

My two cents

I do this a couple of times a year as it is fairly accessible to me. I think I would forget the 2x. Loss of light, quality and focus speed. I mention the focus speed as that has been the biggest problem I have found. You may think you will have time to focus manually but I have found otherwise. The 70-200 is a very fast focusing lens and it would serve you well to forget the manual focus thing. You will most likely not be faster than the lens and defiantly not faster than the whale if it breaches. Manual exposures is good and in my opinion forget the polarizer as you will need all the speed you can get if the boat is moving any amount along with the whale(s). My two cents..<div></div>