d_young

<p>I have used multiple flashes with camera controls, however, do not recall the setting except master and slaves worked well. Best advice I can give, if possible, call Canon CPS. They will know.<br>

<br />Best, Dee</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. I did follow the advice in the studio1 productions link and updated the drivers for each graphic card. I found additional information on the system use by going to the start/run tab and typing dxdiag . This will provide you a window of current systems and versions. This was helpful. <br>

I may be upgrading one of the cards and just need to make sure it is compatible with the system Im using. Thanks again!<br>

Dee</p>

<p>Interesting feedback. I was reading but now cannot find the article that outlined some recommendations for video cards for PS6. Here is another, however, that is good.<br>

http://blogs.adobe.com/jnack/files/2012/07/CS6_hardware_recommendations.pdf<br>

which came from http://blogs.adobe.com/jnack/2012/07/cs6-hardware-recommendations-now-available.html<br>

According to the article, I presently have the minimum for OK graphics (FX 580). The notes above and what Ive read pretty much are saying that a mid range graphic card is good enough for PS, basic editing, but Im also using other image processing software. <br>

<br />Why do I want a new card - pretty much what Keith noted and to render the best image possible. There doesnt seem to be a clear cut answer except a general indication that the mid range cards work fine without spending an arm and a leg for a card that really wont enhance the basic editing features but will enhance certain filters and advanced features that I dont use much.</p>

<p>Also a good article here on setting up the GPU but my geek level is pretty low.<br>

http://www.studio1productions.com/Articles/PhotoShop.htm</p>

<p>I have been considering upgrading the video cards in a couple of PCs (Dell Precisions, Windows 7 64bit) which are used for Photoshop CS 6 and image processing, not gaming. From what I have read, digital photography and imaging does not require the extremely fast cards used in gaming and engineering. However, any recommendations would be appreciated. <br>

Thanks,<br />Dee</p>

<p>I prefer DPP to the other programs Ive tried. Sometimes I will use Bridge for a quick look and edit of images, but use DPP for conversion of selected images. Granted, DPP could be a lot better, but it seems to work better for me at this point. Therefore, I have to concur with Bob on all points he has made above.</p>

<p>I use DPP as a primary. I just like the way DPP resolves color and sharpness in my EOS RAW images compared to the other programs I have used. I also use Bridge in PS, however, each has certain application advantages. For quick edits and browsing lots of images, Bridge does well. As an all in one, with access to file info and XMP, it has advantages over DPP. It may be a personal preference, but for the initial conversion, DPP for EOS RAW images works best ... for me. But after the initial edits in RAW, the work flow has been going to Photoshop. .... Cant comment on Lightroom as I have not used it that much. <br>

<br />I guess Bridge may not be long on the list if Adobe takes Photoshop to the cloud as I am not going there.</p>

<p>D</p>

No offence taken. No film. I haven't had a chance to take the bottom cover off yet however.

<p>Thanks for the responses. There is no winder or motor drive on the camera, it is the winder lever, or film advance lever at the top. Neither it will advance nor will the shutter release? It does not operate in"O" or "B", which is odd.</p>

<p>I am disappointed that after the overhaul, it is jammed or stuck somehow. It is beyond the 60-day warranty they offered. I emailed the shop, who noted back to just send it back to them for repair. Before I do that, I may have to try John's advice to see if I can advance it by removing the base and see if I can gently move something to unjam it.</p>

<p>Everything else seems to work. The timer will time down to the release and clicks, but the shutter does not release? </p>

About a year ago, I sent my minolta xd-7 to a repair shop for a complete

overall. It worked fine when I got it back and was in excellent condition. I

have not used it since. I recently tried to use it and the shutter will not

release? The winder will not turn? I have tried it with good batteries and on

manual with bulb... nothing? Everything else seems to work, timer, light meter,

etc.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

<p>I also agree. I have struggled with the noise issue in the 5DMII and finally sold it and kept a 1DMIII. Canon is going to have to do better before I step up. </p>

<p>Dan, <br>

Thanks also for the review. IMO, the IQ for the 5DMIII was something that I was hoping would be better. Your impression of RAW and IQ between the 5DMII and MIII has left me thinking that waiting may be a better option. I owned the 5DMII and sold it because of noise and variable IQ. Granted the MIII appears to have some nice qualities, however, the end doesn't seem to justify the means (not yet). <br>

I must have lucked out in the purchase of a 1DMIII years back because I have never had the focus issues that haunted other 1DMIII owners. I have always used it as a standard body and bought the 5DMII thinking the IQ (all inclusive) would be much better. I just didnt see it. I still own the 1DMIII. <br>

It may be that one twitch in the assembly line of cameras produces better or worse sibling bodies than others, as seen with my 1DMIII. I did like your post and will continue to think more about the 5DMIII.<br>

Thanks, D</p>

<p>I had the 1d MIIn. The 1D series is a class in its own (period). It is heavier to tote around but the performance is greater for the reasons you mentioned. The focus system for lenses per aperture settings is far more advanced than the consumer models. You will notice this immediately if you have telephoto lenses. Based on images from friends who have the 40D, you will not lose much and may gain. I highly recommend you send your system to Canon (lenses and body) to have them factory calibrate the focus for each lens you have. It will be worth it in the long run ... if you should notice any back or forward focusing. Other than that, the 1DMIIn is a great camera, and I would have one over the 40D ..</p>

<p>I am really considering what everyone has posted including masking. I did a test: </p>

<p>1. Opened a RAW image in DPP as 16bit tiff (shot with EOS 5D MII) and converted to 8 bits (28.2 mb).<br>

2. I created a copy background image (layers panel).<br>

3. I ran a photoshop smart sharpen filter on the copy.<br>

4. I added a layer mask to that copy and filled it with black, painting in the areas that needed sharpening.<br>

5. I flattened the image and checked the image size, which was 28.8 mb.</p>

<p>I had thought that creating a background copy doubled the size of the image and might have some residual "bad" effects on the image. But this process seemed not to increase the size of the image and added no visual side affects that I could find?<br>

This process did seem to work. The PK Sharpener package seems like a good program. Any thoughts whether PK might be a better solution than this?</p>

<p>Thanks so much for the responses. Really helpful information. I forgot to mention that I am using Windows XP but will upgrade to Win-7 soon. I have Photoshop CS5 and use Bridge and ACR often, but found DPP renders color better (for me). I use DPP sharpening tools for the first step in capture sharpening. Since the affect is global on the image, I am not applying it heavily. I like the idea of "targeted" sharpening on certain parts of the image. Not having a lot of time to spend with masking, a sophisticated but user-friendly program that allows application of creative sharpening to selected areas sounds appealing.</p>

<p>I have been researching post processing image sharpening software. It appears, there have been some advances in image sharpening programs, with some photographers favoring one program verses another, for various <a href="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/software/pk-sharpener.shtml">reasons or applications</a>. Im looking for an up-to-date review and in particular, Photo.net-er's feedback on their experience "actually" using or comparing sharpening software programs. <br>

A few that I am considering are: PhotoKit Sharpener, Nik Sharpening Pro, and FocalBlade. Right now, I am<br>

leaning towards PhotoKit.</p>

<p>Your personal experience with these programs and feedback is appreciated -<br>

Thanks!<br>

Dee</p>

<p>Boarder Line</p>

<p>I dont even like to think about it. While on a National Park at a boundary line, I was shooting a landscape that included private, state and federal lands and waters - it was a landscape. The adjacent property owner saw me and actually came across to the park side and confronted me, and said, I could not take the picture that included his property. He was in my face (gulp). After a minute or so of back and forth and his informing me of his property rights, I just told him he may own the property but he did not own the landscape. I took the shots and walked away, but knowing that I did not have a property release for shots that included his property. The image, to my understanding, has limited use because of this. But that was light years ago and I still have the image on film. Im not even sure he still owns the land or his status. </p>