nikolas

Roger

 

their website is www.amateurphotographer.com, but unfortunatelly this article is not available online.

 

The reviewers find a lot of similarities in the images from the three cameras, particularly in RAW mode, which is not surprising given that they share the same sensor.

There is more variation in the way they handle JPEGs as a result of the different image processing chips.

The differences and similarities are nicely illustrated through comparisson shots.

 

They also discuss differences in camera handling and features, although they don't say anything that a careful look through the specs wouldn't reveal.

 

I'd be happy to send you my copy of the article if you want it. Just e-mail me your address (you can get my email from my photo.net page).

For those who might be interested the February 10th issue of Amateur

Photographer (UK) has an 8-page comparative test of the Digilux 3, Panasonic

Lumix DMC L-1, and Olympus E-330.

 

As the cameras share the same lens mount, the Leica D Vario Elmarit 14-50 has

been used for many of the comparisson shots.

Thanks for the helpful responses.

I use the Metz 54MZ-3 with the SCA 3102 M on my EOS film bodies.

Does anyone know if this adaptor will work on a 400D/Digital Rebel XTi?

Which functions will be supported and which not?

 

thank you - Nikolas

Very good joke :)

Now we 're all waiting for the real first photo!!

I like the results I get from DDX. I usually rate Delta 3200 at 2000.

Very good suggestions from Roger.

 

And make sure you bring fast film with you as there hasn't been too much light in London lately :)

As Gabriel said, the shift in intensity could be explained by the default setting of CF-10. For reference here are all the different options:

 

0 (default) - Flashes when focused is achieved, lights dimly while you press the shutter button halfway after focus is achieved

 

1 - No flashing at all

 

2 - No flashing after focus is achieved

 

3 - Flashes brightly

I agree with Thomas. The third picture tells a whole story.

Jeff is right. Perspective depends only on the distance from the subject, not on focal length. Focal length determines the angle of viewing, in other words how a scene will be "cropped". So actually, "enlarging a portion of the image from a wide angle lens would have the same compression effect" as a picture taken with a tele-lens; provided that both were taken from the exact same place. (now, grain would be different but that's another matter).

Sailing in the Aegean, Greece.

I got it on DVD from amazon.de (Germany).

Excellent documentary. It was well worth seeing (many times, indeed).

In addition to what Doug said, when in COR mode, you can change the correction value manually using the value buttons (up/down arrow).

 

The left-hand figure shows the correction value in stops and 1/10th stops. I understand that the right-hand value shows the extension factor, which is applicable for negative correction values in stops.

I use Ilford Delta 3200 which I rate at 2000. I shoot wide open (with my lenses that's f2.0) and whatever shutter speed the light conditions indicate; in the situations I shoot I usually end up with 1/30, 1/60, and maybe 1/90. When I can't get a shot at 1/30 I usually prefer to under-expose the negative rather than go slower, and try to save it later in the darkroom - if I can. If you have steady hands you can go lower, but of course that doesn't deal with blur from subject motion.

 

Check if the camera's meter is accurate in low light conditions. With meter-less cameras I use an incident meter and take a few readings before I start. John Perkins' advice to take readings off people's faces and to shoot a lot of film, is spot on.

 

Although I like Rodinal and the grain it produces with films like Tri-X, I never use it for faster films; I find both TMZ and Delta 3200 look ugly in Rodinal. I prefer to develop my Delta in Ilford-DDX. Microphen is also a good alternative. And follow the very sensible advice of John Collier and Gerry to test the combination before you develop your precious photos.

 

Good luck !!

I was looking at the Seconic L-308 and the Gossen Sixtomat Flash (or Luna-Pro Digital F, as it is known in the US).

Both meters have good reputation.

 

I handled both and bought the Gossen. The interface and built quality looked better to me. Also, I preferred the orientation of its incident light dome.

 

I have been using it for a couple of years and been very satisfied with it.

I used to develop in ID 11 (similar to D76) but now prefer the look of Rodinal.

I find the tonality great. Grain is larger, but I kind of like it :)

I also find one-shop developers convenient.

The green links are a major improvement (at least on my monitor), and I find the rolloover underlining a good compromise.

 

Thanks for being responsive to users' suggestions! It is of course impossible to please everyone, but it's good to see that comments are taken into account.

 

I find banner adds fair. Anything but pop-up windows :)

I like the new colors! But I would prefer the underlined links too, as I found them easier to read.

Thanks for the info Brian ! That's certainly worth attending.

 

Any forum members want to meet for a pint afterwards :)

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You might want to check customers <A HREF="http://www.photo.net/neighbor/one-subcategory?id=2">

feedback</A> before buying from AAA

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Tri-X in Rodinal 1:50

 

Delta 3200 in Ilford DDX

1. M3, 50 'cron, Tri-X in Rodinal

 

2. Canon EOS, EF 100/2, Tri-X again

It seems that the first of your ideal features may already be available. When in M mode, later models have the ability to match exposure in one step.

 

If you half-press the release button and one of the up/down buttons simultaneously, the camera selects the correct speed to match the meter [which in M mode is a 4-degrees spot].

 

So if you want you can meter, lock exposure, focus, lock focus, then re-compose and shoot.

 

The black model can be upgraded to this function.

I haven't upgraded mine, so I haven't actually tried this. Perhaps other users could give more feedback.

David - I like your subtle irony :)

I don't know if Leica is an exception, but all other warranties that I have used start at the day of purchase (as shown on the receipt), irrespective of when the actual registration took place.

 

cheers