sven

<p><em>The confusion lays where you can set the shutter speed on the back. Btw, does the len's shutter speed need to be transferred to the back for each shot for the exposure to be correct?</em><br>

The exposure setting in the back is used when you are performing exposures longer then 1/8 second. Example: if you wish to capture a 4 second exposure, then set the Exposure time in the back to 4 seconds. The sensor will remain active for this period. I hope this clarifies.<br>

<em>Does the latest cfv backs allow for manual insertion of the len's settings to EXIF data?</em></p>

<p>I understand your desire to have have the aperture and shutter speed embedded in the EXIF, unfortunately is not possible with a mechanical camera such as your 503CW. In time maybe you will consider an H4D or H5D. This is an electro-mechanical system and all EXIF data will be present and you would have a host of new feature and functions.</p>

<p>Hello J/<br>

The V system cameras are mechanical in nature and therefore not able to transfer EXIF data such as aperture and shutter speeds to the 3F raw file. You will be able to view the ISO and the serial number of the V96C in Flexcolor or Phocus.<br>

Paul Claesson<br>

Hasseblad Bron Inc.</p>

<p>You have three options available.<br>

1. Use C lenses, set the shutter speed ring to "C" on the 205 and the CFV/CFV39 menu to "Flashsynch" and connect synch cable from lens to back.<br>

2. Have your 205 modified by Hasselblad if you wish to use F/FE lenses. An additional circuit board is soldered into place on the primary PCB circuit board in the body and a badge is attached to the side of the modified 200 series camera stating: “Modified for use with dedicated Hasselblad digital backs”. <br>

<em>note the following practical points when using a 200 series camera modified for cable free use with CFV digital backs:</em><br>

 

<p>• The cable-free solution only functions in conjunction with either: F/FE lenses <em>or </em>CF/CFi/CFE lenses set in F-mode.<br>

• One consequence of the modification is that there is no data transfer of ISO setting from film<br>

magazine or digital back. This means that the ISO dial on E magazines (and the zone system dial in<br>

the case of older TCC magazines) will no longer function when connected to a modified camera body.<br>

However, ISO settings can easily be made on the camera body instead.<br>

• When using a CFV digital back, an ISO setting has to be made both on the body and on the back.<br>

• Auto bracketing is not possible with a modified 203FE and CFV digital magazine, as the capture rate<br>

of the CFV back is slower than the capture rate of the 203FE would be with film.<br>

3. You can use the 201F, 202FA, 203FE, 205TCC, 205FCC and 2000FC, 2000FCM, 2000FCW, 2003FCW cameras with your F/FE lenses with the Hasselblad CFV/CFV39 and use the focal plane shutter with speeds up to 1/2000th shutter speed provided you use a Kapture group One-Shot HA-001 Cable Release.<br>

Paul</p>

</p>

<p>Does anyone have an experience of working with a H CF lens adapter? Yes.<br>

How CFE lens are with it? OK. And what happens, when a preset aperture from CFE lens is automatically transferred to the camera? With a CFE lens the aperture information in transfered via databus contacts to the H body and is visible on the LCD display on the H grip.<br>

Will there be a mess with a data on a camera display? I am not sure what you mean by a mess. The aperture value set on the lens will appear on the H LCD external display. A corresponding shutter speed value will also be reflected here and is base on the aperture value that was set on the lens and ambient light available. <br>

Does it mean that the best case scenario for such an adapter is to stay with CF lens or CFi? CFE is the best option for reasons indicated above. The CF and CFi also work fine and you will need to transfer both the aperture and shuter speed value indicated on the H LCD display to the lens for proper exposure.<br>

Paul Claesson<br>

Hasselblad USA<br>

<br /></p>

<p>The sensor for the H3DII60 measures 53.7 x 40.2 </p>

<p> Regarding the flash: as long as the standard pin on the flash is lined up to the central pin on the HVD90x viewfinder the flash should fire. If not then there may be a problem with the viewfinder or the pin on the Sunpack. I suggest bringing the camera and flash to your dealer so they may look at it. What model of Sunpack. <br>

"I don't see the H3 very user friendly" is this specific to the flash or do you a question about setting the camera, custom options, profiles etc?<br>

Paul Claesson<br>

Hasselblad USA<br>

<br /></p>

 

<p>The sensor for the H3DII60 measures 53.7 x 40.2 </p>

<p> Regarding the flash: as long as the standard pin on the flash is lined up to the central pin on the HVD90x viewfinder the flash should fire. If not then there may be a problem with the viewfinder or the pin on the Sunpack. I suggest bringing the camera and flash to your dealer so they may look at it. What model of Sunpack. <br>

"I don't see the H3 very user friendly" is this specific to the flash or do you a question about setting the camera, custom options, profiles etc?<br>

Paul Claesson<br>

Hasselblad USA<br>

<br /></p>

 

<p>You can use the H2 and 7.2v Li-ion in the 30 degrees to 120 degrees Fahrenheit that you have indicated. While there are no published temperature range as with our digital system. The H camera has been tested down to -20 degrees and still operates. You must keep in mind that the LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) on the grip can freeze and appear sluggish as a change is made to the shutter speed or aperture, though the internal electronics recognize the change. The display may be delayed in reflecting the change due to the low ambient temperature that you are shooting in (0, -10, -20 degrees). I highly recommend carrying a spare battery that you can change as the low temperatures will effect battery performance and reduce the number of captures that you can record. Once the 7.2V has had an initial charge of 12 hours, the battery should charge in approx 2 hours. see page 24 of the H2 manual. Paul Claesson Hasselblad USA</p>

<p>Being a user of other cameras such as Canon 5D, Contax 645 and Hasselblad 501CM, we do not find this camera friendly to use at all. I can only speak about the 501CM and yes it is very straight forward, set aperture, shutter speed, focus, compose, shoot. <br>

We believe it has a very complicated camera-user interface. I think the user is very straight forward, everthing is clearly labeled, i.e all Menu's items and custom options. It does take a little time to become aclimated to a new system and know how to program it, possibly use "Profiles" to save your settings. A nice shortcut to access the Custom Options is press the Menu button on top and then the User button on the rear of the hand grip and scroll the various options via the front control wheel.<br>

Second, the H3D was made less user friendly, again this is for commercial reason. Sorry, I must say, Hasselblad is setting commercial obstacles, on top of important feature like user friendliness and scanner dpi. Can you clarify, what commercial obstacles? Personally i think the H system is very user friendly, I am biased as i have been using the H cameras in one form or another since their inception in 2002.<br>

All cameras I have been using triggers the flash on the top of the cameras automatically. This simple function works in all the cameras including Sony, Contax, Leica, Canon, <a href="../medium-format-photography-forum/00SLd9" target="_blank">Nikon</a> and the Hasselblad V. The Hasselblad V does not offer a hot shoe on the prism and all H cameras including the H3DII has a hot shoe which communicates directly with the flash, provided you are using the proper SCA module.<br>

Believe me, Hasselblad is struggling and is losing to the strong competitors like Phase one. In this economic environment, all companies in almost every industry have felt the impact. That said I disagree with you regarding our standing vs. our competition. Please look at all the new products that we announced at Photokina, some are in production and shipping H3DII50, the HTS 1.5x will be shipping this month along with new versions of Phocus, 35-90mm HCD, DC adapter, H3DII60. <br>

The H3 does not have an ISO flash shoe on top of the camera. It can only be used with dedicated flash units or a suitable adapter (q.v., p107ff of the H3 manual). The H3D/H3DII does have hot shoe on the HVD90x viewfinder and if you wish to utilize a dedicated TTL flash i suggest the using the SCA3902 adapter with a Metz flash if you want full TTL-OTF capabilities. On page 110 of the manual it has a section "Separate flash unit connection and use". You can use a flash with a single pin that will connect to the large central contact on the viewfinder.<br>

Joseph, what flash are you using? have you confirmed that the flash is seated properly<br>

Paul Claesson <br>

Hasselblad USA<br>

<br /><br>

<br /></p>

www.hasselbladusa.com> docs & downloads> product sheets

 

MTF's for all HC lenses are available.

 

You will also find information about the CF Adapter, V96C, H1D.

For Photo4,

 

You have the ability the access the self timer as the push of one button if you desire.

The easiest way to activate the self timer is as follows:

 

1. Press Menu button, scroll to Self Timer and press Enter/Drive button. You have three option to select.

 

a. Select the time 2 sec to 60 seconds.

Scroll front wheel to the right to select next option.

 

b. Mirror up/Delay or Delay/Mirror up. (my personal preference is Mirror up/Delay), Mirror moves up and vibrations settle, photo is taken.

Scroll front wheel to the right to select next option.

 

 

c. Mirror goes down or mirror remains up.(my personal preference is Mirror goes down).

 

Last step is to half press the Shutter release button to save.

 

2. A shortcut to quickly activate the self timer.

Press the Menu button, then press the User button on the rear of the hand grip, this will bring you to custom option #3 User button functions. Scroll the rear thumb wheel down to self timer.

 

3. Press the Shutter release button half way down to save.

 

4. At this point you can save the self timer option as a PROFILE and title it Self Timer.

 

You also have the ability to activate the Bracketing function as well directly from the User button as opposed going through the main Menu.

Hello all,

 

This is an interesting thread and I felt compelled to offer some additional information for your digestion. All this information is available from the Manufactures product literature. The entire concept for the H1 was conceived by VHAB, they manufacture the Body and write the software/firmware that drives the camera.

 

1. H1 has an integrated darkslide.

 

2. User button can be customized to select one of 16 functions. example, bracketing, standby, delete last digital image.

 

3. 21 Custom functions, H1 can be programmed with approx 63 options.

 

4. User can lock systems controls, 3 options (lock wheels only so aperture and shutter speed can not be changed, all controls - Aperture and shutter speed and all buttons or Off).

 

5. Very bright 100% viewfinder accuracy, Magnification 2.7x vs. Contax at 95%, Magnification .8x

 

6. Diopter H1 (-4.0 to +2.5) vs. Contax (-2.0 to +1.0).

 

7. H1 utilizes a passive central cross field phase detection sensor sensitive to both Vertical and Horizontal line patterns. Autofocus is FAST, with an 80mm HC lens, focus is achieved from close focus approx. 3 feet to infinity in 300ms and AF does not hunt to find focus.

 

8. Flash Sync - H1 up to 1/800 sec. vs. Contax 1/90 sec with manual strobes or 1/125 sec with dedicated flash.

 

9. Shutter speed range H1 - 18 hours to 1/800 sec. vs. Contax - 32 sec in Auto, 8 sec in manual to 1/4000 sec.

 

10. H1 can read to bar code off Fuji film and automatically adjust ISO and 120/220 setting, Manual adjust with Kodak, Ilford etc. 120/220 setting is adjusted from buttons located on film Magazine Vs. Contax, the user adjust the pressure height on the insert.

 

11. Data Imprinting, H1 offers 6 options on outside of negative area.

 

12. Integrated flash with guide number of 38.

 

13. H1 offers the options to read EV and Zone values in (zone when in spot mode).

 

14. H1 AF can be over ridden and manually focused at any given point.

 

15. H1 has a feature called flash measure available for Manual strobes , I believe Contax has a similar feature, pre flash TTL metering.

 

16. H1 has one additional mode called Program Variable which will select a fast shutter speed to compliment the focal length of the attached lens (example 150mm HC f3.2, H will try to select a 1/60 sec or 1/125 sec SS if enough light is available).

 

17. Hasselblad manufactures the electromagnetic leaf shutter at the factory in Sweden and to Fuji in Japan for installation in the HC lenses.

 

18. The H1 Photographer has the ability to view in the info menu the usage (number of images captured by each component and firmware.

 

19. H1 is a very robust camera which an aluminum die cast chassis and each component has an additional stainless steel shell for added protection.

 

20. Digital integration - as of this writing the backs which are available fop the H1 are Imacon 96C, 384C, 132C and 528C, Leaf 17WiFi & 22WiFi and Phase One H101.

What will forthcoming are the Phase P20 & P25 and the Sinar 54M.

The Histogram can be viewed in the LCD display on top, also the sensor orientation (portrait/landscape) as well as WB (depends on which back is attached as what info is indicated here.

 

21. Lastly, Profiles an extremely cool feature (personal opinion) the photographer can set the cameras function most valuable to them and store them in one of three profiles. If you happen to loan your camera to a buddy and they makes numerous changes you always have the option to return to the standard profile or so called factory default settings.

 

As for look, color. my personal feeling is the H1 is a very stylish camera and looks quite different from the Mamiya Contax, Rollei cameras.

 

Handling is very personal and each photographer must select what feels comfortable for them.

 

lastly and this an observation. The Contax offer Zeiss lenses which if you look at the bottom of the lens it is stamped "made in Japan" My understanding is the Contax lenses are manufactured by Kyocera, Japan under license by Carl Zeiss, Germany. So really we are comparing lenses from these competing systems which are both manufactured in Japan.

 

 

I believe that's enough for now, it's rather late so I'll sign off. I believe I have covered most of the highlights of the camera and I am also certain I forgotten some functions but that is due to the late hour.

 

Paul Claesson

Hi Johnny,

 

There are quite a few options for digital backs for the 501CM. I would suggest checking the following link for the compatibilty spreadsheet of the 35 digital backs avialable for V and H system cameras. The latest Valeo 22WiFI & 17WiFI are not included as yet. http://www.paulclaesson.com/DigitalInfo/Digtal.MF.Ref.pdf

Hi Thomas,

The diopter adjustment is very easy. Slide the lock mech. (switch) to the right to unlock. Next remove the lens from the body. Point the camera at a light colored wall, look through the viewfinder at the cross hairs and rotate the eyecup to the left or right. When the vertical/horizontal cross hairs appear sharp your eye is now focused to the groundglass/focusing screen. move the locking switch to the left to lock. Reattach the lens and your ready to go.

 

Paul Claesson