walter_mak1

<p>BTW, Hugo, sorry to hear what you've been through, maybe you should either change you hair or change your bag, or maybe use a Canon / Nikon DSLR, then you'll look more ... normal :D<br>

Using any camera other than Canon or Nikon always get some attention on the street, I always got those "are you crazy?" kinda look whenever I shoot on the street lol gonna try do some Pentax 67 street shooting anyway!</p>

<p>Didier - Hadley ? then you'll blend in well, cause I see Billingham everywhere in HK now, almost like everybody with a camera got one, lol<br>

Hugo - I use shutter as slow as 1/30 even under daylight, that's why! lol</p>

<p>Hi Hugo, I shoot everywhere lol with ISO400 film I think you should do alright with f8 even on a cloudy day - daytime... I only shoot ISO100 film one a good sunny day and when I'm far from the city, and almost only use ISO100 film or slide when I'm abroad :D<br>

Color six is right next to the Mac Shop on Stanley St., Central<br>

If you see someone shooting Chrome M2 with a Nokton 1.1 and a Black VC meter II, it could be me</p>

<p>Being a HK citizen, I would say avoid Velvia 50, unless you are going to shoot wide open all the way, you won't get that good a weather (although I wish we do), here's always a little bit hazy, I personally always stick to something with a bit more contrast, I leave or my slide for travel.<br>

and depends what and where you're shooting, if most of your time is in the city, you might end up always in the shade or indoor area, for my day to day shooting, I usually load ISO400 (xtra 400, kodak 400UC or VC, XP2 are my faves).. and I always stick with f5.6 - f8 for street shooting. If you want to use Astia, it works ok when you push 2 step just in case.</p>

<p>since you're at least bringing 2 Ms, why not load your M7 with faster film (it has higher shutter speed, right?) and M6 with 100?</p>

<p>oh, Thanks you indeed Ron :) I think you have to love your lenses (and camera) to make a good picture,and somehow it just doesn't happen when I have a Leitz glass on my M2 lol <br>

Or I should say, quoting Tom A, it's a lens that do what I want it to do, and they way I want it.</p>

<p>Not sure why you mention pricing in HK, indeed the price is a lot more lower than in Japan or in anywhere else, it worth every penny!<br>

Cheers!</p>

<p>being a 2 month old user, I had decided to make this Nokton my main M lenses right from the first roll I made with it, and it just grow on me everyday, I love it.<br>

I won't compare it with the Noctilux or even the Summilux, the only other 50mm M lenses I ever used was a Summicron DR, Konica M50/2 and a Nokton 50/1.5<br>

Weight - no scientific comparision, but I don't find it much more heavier than the other 3 I've tried<br>

Size - it is huge, but it ergonomically better than the other 3 in my hand, your mileage may vary. It block a bit of the finder, but after a few rolls I got used to it.<br>

PQ - I'm not addict to Bokeh, but nothing in the OOF bother me so far, wide open is sharp as hell, backing off to f1.4, f2, f2.8, it is comparable to the other 3, contrast are between the DR (the lower) and Konica (the higher), possibly sharper than all three, color is a bit warmer than the Nokton 50/1.5, which I prefer much much better.<br>

if used properly, i will sure give you the 3D-ish image and the so call Leica glow, not as glowy though but some of that has to do with flare which the Nokton doesn't.<br>

see my samples for yourself > http://www.flickr.com/photos/jemmer/tags/nokton5011/</p>

<p>in Shinjuku, you may want to visit map camera, just be careful you want buy too much ; )<br>

www.mapcamera.com </p>

<p>and who said the Leica is the unobtrusive camera? lol <br>

while I'm in HK, I think most people here are accustomed to DSLR, when you use something not made by Nikon or Canon, peoples on the streets would give you a strange look ~ what peice of crap you are using? ~ well that actually help me shoot easier on the street since the only SLR system I use is Pentax. <br>

I have a Black M4-2, which is even less noticeable, I found most of the people don't really care when I raise my camera, but I still run into some that would just flee when I try to shoot.<br>

The few funniest experience when my cameras got notice was<br>

a 12 years old kids with his mom gazing and drooling at my Rolleiflex in a Park,<br>

and once I was stopped by 2 ladies in a mall and said - with a camera like this you must be a good photographer, could you please help take a picture for me and my friend? that was my Rolleiflex again<br>

and everytime when I have my Polaroid SX70 or Automatic 330 with me, everybody else on the street just can't stop looking at me lol</p>

<p>don't worry, 9 out of 10 times is the lenses, not the camera, I got the same problem with my I61 and Jupiter 8, both lenses could work at 1 meter when stop down to f4 on my M4-2 and Bessa R2. AFAIK most Zorki / Fed from the late production (probably late 80s onward or earlier) or calibrated to work with the lenses came with it, tolarence for the lenses's focusing cam is pretty bad, so the work the easier way around to tweak the camera instead.<br>

Your best bet is to try another lenses (perhaps you can borrow one or just try one in a shop?) if you want to make sure your camera's RF is working properly. If your camera is proved fine, don't border to adjust it to work with the lenses, doesn't worth it, just try to find another one.<br>

No doubt the industar is a good lenses, but it's dirt cheap, I bought a Zorki 4K to work with the lenses eventually.</p>

<p>alright, got the test roll and scanned, the result is not perfect, the tweak shows improvement in the focus shift, it's getting closer, now slightly off and the DOF in f2.8 cover the problem. Also test with an Elmar 50/2.8, also shot at the closest distance - 1 meter, same problem found, and f4's DOF have cover the problem...<br>

one more tweak, if it doesn't work, I'll send it to CLA...</p>

<p>oh, thanks for the credit :P regarding your questions..<br>

Lenses - I would say none of the CV lenses being produce since the late 90's could be of any bad on the technical side. I've used to own a 50/1.5, 35/2.5, 35/1.7 and a 15/4.5, and I now have a 21/4, never have a complain with any one of these lenses, the only possible concern would be all CV lenses will give you a rather cool color tone, especially in low light situation, and rather contrasty, BUT this is all personal preference, I have no problem with it, I toke these as the lenses character.<br>

The R2 I used to have served me well, what I don't like (again it's just me) is the frameline in the finder, rather distracting for me, but it's very bright and clear, works well for a lot of people. I suggest you try as much body as possible to see which one suits you better. <br>

I remember there's parallax correction in my R2 if my memory serve me right, so I believe there's in R3 as well, but, RF shooting was never about precise framing anyway,hope these help!</p>

<p>if you are so decided the Feds or Former Soviet cameras, <br>

- I heard a lot of complain on the built in meter, try get one without meter<br>

- would recommend a Fed2 or a Zorki, most of the case they are better built, and definitely smaller and lighter<br>

Industar 61, Jupiter 3 and Jupitar 8, if you could find a good copy, they could give you stunning results.<br>

I personally started with a Fed 2 six years ago, then went through a Bessa R2, then a Hexar RF, and now with a Leica, but I still got myself a Zorki 4K to accompany my Jupiter and Industar, which both have a register problem which can't be use on other cameras.<br>

CV Bessa R series would be a logical choice if your budget allow, especially models after the R2 with M mount,<br>

- with an adaptor, you can still use LTM mount lenses as well as any M Mount lenses,<br>

- also have a pretty good built in meter<br>

- built in framelines so you get to use lenses other than 50mm</p>

<p>Mapcamera is a must, I never been there though, but I've been buying from them through their internet shop for years.<br>

The other shops you shouldn't miss is Yodobashi and Bic camera, they mainly sell new gears but have a used section.<br>

Most of the Leica specialist shops are in Ginza district.</p>

<p>Hi guys, did some tweaking on the roller cam, fine tuning the infinity focusing (which was very slightly off), then guess what? The cam start reacting to the lenses when focus reach pass 1 meter, all the way down to 0.8 meter!<br>

I have compare focusing distance with a Nokton 58/1.4 on my SLR, the 2 lenses doesn't stop at the EXACT point, but I guess it's close enough for the mean time. Did a few test shot to finish the roll, seems OK... <br>

2 samples here : http://www.flickr.com/photos/jemmer/sets/72157620606343053/</p>

<p>Thanks again for your inputs!</p>

<p>Thanks Rob for the input, your example is true on M3, but from M2 onward, all Leica M should support close focus up to 0.7 meter to accompany the lenses from that era, eg Summaron 35/2.8, that's why I'm confused.<br>

Today I've tried a M-Rokkor 40/2 on my M4-2, it seems to be work better. What really bugged me is my Summicron 40 have no problem on a M2, I think this proof it has nothing to do with the lenses, but it's the camera itself need a RF adjustment.... will keep you guys posted!</p>

<p>Hi All, I'm new here, greetings!<br>

I recently acquired an M4-2 and a C-Summicron 40/2 as my Leica starter kit, feels great shooting with them, however, I found the lenses of problem focusing at close range (0.8m to probably 1.1 meter), I've examine this problem with a ground glass and found the RF batch (technically it's the RF cam right?) stop responding within this range and the focus point stuck at 1.1m.<br>

I have similar problem with a Hexanon 50/2, but I take that the Hex could be an early production unit which indeed doesn't work well with a Leica...<br>

I've done a lot of searching over the net regarding the C-'cron but I never notice any user mentioning this, now I wonder if it's my camera or the lenses causing the problem.. any of you ever experience this?<br>

Thanks in advance!</p>