thomas_lozinski

<p>One important thing if you have VR lenses is to turn the VR off while camera is on and then turn camera off. This will "park" the floating elements and help avoid damage from getting banged around. </p>

<p>Thanks Edward Downer! Especially since it's such an old thread. That looks great. If I understand correctly the output is still a raw file?<br>

Really looking forward to experimenting with it later.</p>

<p>20mm isn't all that wide on DX. Of your choices I'd go for the tokina but I would seriously consider the sigma 1.8 zoom as others mentioned and the 10-20 or tokina 11-16.</p>

<p>I'm heading down to Cabo San Lucas for a wedding (as a guest) this weekend. I'll only be there 3 days so I'm not bringing much gear. Any general recommendations? Should I rent a car or just stay near the resort? Should I have concerns about security? What about night shooting?<br>

Thanks in advance. </p>

<p>I've used aluminyze and canvas on demand. They both had groupons bringing the prices down about 50%. Aluminyze has 50% off their new sizes now. The ones from canvas on demand were very slightly bent around the wood framing which was almost enough to warrant a complaint but I didn't bother. The first print I got from Aluminyze had a chipped edge. I called them and they sent me another one. I would use either again but i would choose whoeever has the best price. I've found the resolution on them to be a little less than what I would expect of a regular halide print. I don't know if this is necessarily caused by the process or what. </p>

<p>Thanks for the clarifications. I think Rodeo Joe might be on to the correction in communication when he says, " The shallower depth of field happens because DoF is proportional to aperture number, but inversely proportional to the <em>square</em> of the focal length. Simple maths." I wasn't aware of this so perhaps this is exactly what Moose was trying to say. I.E a 600mm 5.6 has less DOF than a 300mm f2.8. I admit I didn't know this, I assumed they would be the same. Thanks. I looked at some of the formulas but I need to look at them some more, the ones on wikipedia get much more involved than needed for this conversation and they don't clearly label the variables. </p>

<p>Moose has a ton of experience and access to the tech pros at Nikon so I would give a lot of credit to what he says but I don't seem to believe what he says about teleconverters reducing the depth of field. He says, "You should be aware that when using teleconverters, you lose either one or two stops of light when you use a 1.4x or 2x respectively. This is light that is just gone, sucked up by the optics of the teleconverters. At the same time, while the teleconverter increases the focal length of the lens, it does not change the size of the hole at the rear of the lens. This combo of longer lens with the same exit hole diameter means you have a slower lens but with less depth of field." He wants us to think that a 400mm f/2.8 with a 2x has less DOF than a 800mm f/5.6 (because the rear aperture hasn't changed size). I don't think the DOF would change but then I was thinking that it is possible to make things blurrier (such as use of then Nikon Defocus Control lenses.) Is Moose just wrong or am I thinking about this too much?</p>

<p>After a few days of using the D7100 I must say I'm happy with it. The images are great and the buffer isn't much of a problem as long as you're using the fastest available SD cards. The one thing that I'm finding disappointing is the long exposure noise reduction. I'm still getting lots of amp glow even with long exposure noise reduction on. Shots of 30s at ISO3200. I haven't done the direct comparison but I think the D7000 was a lot cleaner (something that won't matter for most users.) The 1.3 crop mode is more useful than I thought it would be for the speed/extra buffer. Focus feels as good as my D800 although I did have some trouble switching modes at first, I was only given option of single point or full auto (I must have been locked out by some other mode, not sure.) To answer my own question. . . I don't regret the upgrade.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses. I am going to let me D7000 go and my D7100 should be here tomorrow. I got the 95mb/s san disk extreme pro card for when I need it, and 3fps when the buffer fills is actually a lot better than I was expecting. With slow cards on the D7000 and d800, I had experienced 1-3s between shots which was totally frustrating. I appreciate the thought out replies, and it's always interesting to see how a simple question can open a heated debate on here. The consensus was that no, buyers don't regret switching to the d7100 from the d7k. </p>

<p>I might just have to switch to jpg for BIF etc. 24mp jpg should have a lot of flexibility built in for post processing. How a 24mp jpg compares to 16mp raw for highlight/shadow recovery I'm not sure. . .</p>

<p>Since the D400 is nowhere in sight I'm going to get a D7100, the thing holding me back is the pathetic buffer. I am really hoping a fast SD card will help the situation, but has anyone regretted the upgrade? I shoot raw 95% of the time and I do a lot of action / bird photography. </p>

<p>I'm going to be in the Sedona area Nov 4-9. I'm hoping to do some night photography. Any one in the area that might be interested in going out there? Would be nice to have someone along that knows the area. </p>

<p>I'm attending a workshop at kitt peak on astrophotography Nov 1 to Nov 3rd and will have a few days after that. Still not sure if I'll fly into tucson or phoenix (leaning towards phoenix although rental cars are twice as much there) My interests might be better observed by looking at my site (<a href="http://www.tomlozinski.com">www.tomlozinski.com</a>) but particularly landscapes /waterfalls lately lots of astrophotography esp with widefield milky way and land, long exposures via ND, aerial kite shots, etc. Thank you for the tips so far. </p>

<p>Going to Tucson for a week in November. I really love the northern part of Arizona but won't have time to make it up there. Looking for suggestions around Tucson, especially anything around Kitt Peak or within a few hours. There is a lot of info in the forums but it is a little dated. Would love to do a hike if it leads to some worthwhile landscapes. Really would love to see rock formations/ canyons/ needles etc. Thanks<br>

Tom Lozinski<br>

<a href="http://www.tomlozinski.com">www.tomlozinski.com</a></p>

<p>I finally got the center collar out. There is a holding mechanism that the lock screw goes into. You need to push that in from underneath with a small screwdriver (between the collar and the outer collar) Tightening the hex screws as suggested worked and now the tripod feels like new. Thanks for the tips, saved me from shelling out for a new tripod. It was functional but the thought of many $ worth of camera gear falling over because I thought the leg was out when it wasn't wasn't a risk I wanted to take. </p>

<p>I now see the vertical hex screws on top but how do you get to them? The center column collar is in the way and it doesn't seem to want to come out. I've loosened it so it can spin but I can't pull it out.<br>

<br />Thanks</p>

 

<p>I have a manfrotto tripod (3021) and one of the legs pivots at the top very loose. I'm afraid it won't lock open and I'll drop something. Any ideas how to get parts fix this?<br>

<br /> </p>

<p>I think you'd have to post some images to get a better opinion. Did you increase brightness/exposure in post? That's a sure way to introduce noise. You might have been better off shooting at 3200 in reality. 1600 ISO should be no problem. I just shot a concert mostly at 12800+ and there is some noise but it looks more like grain and the band was thrilled with the shots. If reducing exposure (especially shadows) is an option you will get rid of most of the noise without reducing sharpness. Converting to black and white may help. Using flash and ISO 100 would have made the photos look very flat and unflattering</p>

<p>They are all very capable. The most important differences are going to be available lenses/accessories (with the advantage going to Nikon and Canon), feel and user interface, and compatability with what your friends have. It's always nice to be able to borrow or share lenses. </p>

<p>Check out chdk, you may be able to use the canon d10 d20 in raw mode with a firmware hack. I'd recommend the S110 with housing or maybe even a Nikon V1 with housing. They are much better cameras in general. </p>

<p>How is the speed of 5 vs 4? I had to get a new computer to go from 3 to 4 and really don't want to take a performance hit again. </p>

<p>Search ebay for ND32 and your filter size. About 10 bucks. You can easily get shutter speeds of about a second. If you want minutes long exposures your'e going to need something much darker. </p>

<p>Sravan, Where are you located? I'm in Manasquan. </p>

<p>If you post a few samples you might get some pointers. </p>

<p>Sam, Thanks for understanding. I have notifications enabled so if you update this I'll see.<br>

I'd be happy to test whatever you write!</p>