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mike_c20

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Posts posted by mike_c20

  1. <blockquote>

    <p>Maybe something along the lines of:</p>

    <ul>

    <li>"Warning do not press the mode, preview, ISO, shutter release and AF-ON buttons simultaneously for more than 6 seconds, as this can cause irreparable damage to both camera and fingers"</li>

    </ul>

     

    </blockquote>

    <p>Lol - too funny. Think of it this way - if the manual writers couldn't mess with our heads every once in a while, how boring would their jobs be? And not only that, half the trolls on the photo forums would no longer have anything to hold over the heads of others.</p>

    <p>"What do you mean you didn't read the footnote on pg. 724. U r so dumb, n00b"</p>

     

  2. <blockquote>

    <p>I own and shoot with both the Nikon and Tamron 24-70 lenses. My experience is that on a tripod I prefer the Nikon because the edges of the images seem a little better in terms of sharpness and edge darkening. But given event shooting like weddings, etc., or just walking around, I grab the Tamron every time for its VC. I come back with way more keepers in low light then I ever could with the Nikon. I did not think the difference would be that dramatic when I first bought it 8 months ago ( because the Nikon was 6 weeks in Nikon Repair), but the more I shot with it the more I liked the results.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>That to me sounds spot on to what I would expect based on the photozone review. The Tamron's weak points are with vignetting and corner sharpness but it has VC/VR which translates into more keepers when camera movement comes into play.</p>

    <p><br /> Personally I'm thrilled that other manufacturers are producing lenses which can be considered viable alternatives and don't trade off performance for price. It can only benefit us, the users.</p>

  3. <p>Sure - don't read Ken Rockwell :-p Check out websites which actually conduct scientific testing and provide MTF charts. And if you find the newer 24-85 works better, sell your old one and buy the new one. The beauty of technology is that there'll always be something newer and better (and sometimes cheaper). </p>

     

  4. <p>Hi all,</p>

    <p>I'm heading to Orlando for a weekend and hope to use one of the days to go to one of the many wildlife refuges/areas/parks which are scattered outside of Orlando. My problem is - there are so many, it is difficult to tell which has the most and most active wildlife. From my reserach it seems that the Lake Apopka Restoration Area would be a good choice for birds and crocs and Blue Spring State Park for manatees. Does anyone have a recommendation as to where to go? Any experiences from those who have visited the aforementioned parks? Many thanks,</p>

    <p>Mike</p>

  5. <p>I've been meaning to do a writeup about the JrX system and it sounds like it could be of use coming from an independent source. Once I have a moment to gather my thoughts I'll create a new thread on the subject and post a link back here for those who have subscribed to this thread.</p>
  6. <p>One word answer: No</p>

    <p>Long answer: Although the system will fire at any shutter speed, it won't engage the flash's high speed sync mode resulting in an unevenly flash-lit scene. High speed sync pulses the flash in-sync with the front and rear curtains of your shutter, but without two-way communication (i.e. using the JrX system) that is not possible. So yes, the system will fire but no, it won't produce the same results as if you were using the PX system, a cable or the flash on-camera.</p>

     

  7. <p>Keep in mind that high-ISO has a trickle down effect. If a camera has a native ISO 102,400 then its ISO 800 will produce higher quality results than a camera with a lower ISO limit (assuming same sized sensors). Just look at the D3s vs the D3 - SNR 18% @ ISO800 of D3s is 37db vs 35.8db of the D3.<br>

    To answer your question, yes, higher ISO has helped expand my operational envelope as it has allowed for higher shutter speeds without a sacrifice in quality and it has produced higher image quality across all ISO settings than my previous body.</p>

  8. <p>In the digital world, I think it is hard for any device beyond the first to achieve cult status. There will always be a newer, cheaper, better version a year or to away. I love my D700 and it is the best camera I have ever owned by far; having said that I'll be one of the first to buy its replacement when it comes out. That desire to switch has nothing to do with a "lack of respect" for the D700 but more with if you can get a camera which does more and you have the means, why wouldn't you? Maybe I'm just not into cults :)</p>
  9. <p>Decided to reminisce this week and pulled out an oldie from my Flickr stream<br>

    Nikon D300 with the Nikkor 28-70 f/2.8<br>

    Shot from a rooftop of a fellow photographer that I had just met while taking photos from the street down below. This was a much better view :)<br>

    <a title="Cross traffic by cZulander, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/czulander/3047102642/"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3169/3047102642_f1203ecdb3_z.jpg?zz=1" alt="Cross traffic" width="425" height="640" /></a></p>

  10. <p>The majority of my filters are 77mm but I have two lenses, one 52mm and one 67mm, that I have often found myself wishing for a CPL or a ND filter. Instead of buying identical filters but in different sizes (especially the expensive CPL ones) I figured a step-up adapter may be the way to go. Are there any downsides to using said adapters? The widest lens is 24mm but I'd think the extra filter area would make up for the extra depth required by the adapter. Any experiences from actual use or advice would be appreciated.<em><br /></em></p>
  11. <blockquote>

    <p>Any suggestion for a good setting combonation on the Camera and SB800 for good exposure for outdoor ?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>What I have found works best for me outdoors is to set the camera to M, meter for the background and then use the flash to fill in the subject/foreground. Just remember to have your focus point on your subject (or use FV lock) as your camera meters the flash upon shutter release.</p>

  12. <blockquote>

    <p>In your camera's menu system is an area that lets you indicate what you want the max flash shutter speed to be (you can raise it to 1/250th, and also choose if you want the camera and flash to automatically switch into high-speed sync mode when you choose a faster shutter speed than that ... be you need to be aware of the limitations in flash power at that point).</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>It is important to point out that in dark(er) conditions (indoors, shade, etc), the camera will shoot up to 1/60s (e2) in Aperture priority, so to get 1/250s+ as set in e1 you need to have your camera in either S or M modes.</p>

  13. <p>Hi John,</p>

    <p>I have the exact setup you describe and although I haven't done a head-to-head comparison of the two lenses (+/- TCs), anecdotal evidence indicates the 80-200 even with TCs is sharper. Having said that, I recently captured photos at 1/30s @ 300mm with the 70-300 (VR active) which is something I have never come close to with the other lens. The 80-200 may be sharper, but you're likely to have to bump your ISO in lower light conditions (or loose DoF) so in the end the optical advantage the lens provides will be lost to sensor noise and lower color rendition/dynamic range. If that doesn't convince you, think of it this way - it is your VACATION - a time to relax and enjoy yourself. Will carrying around the extra weight in the name of clarity which won't be noticeable below large prints be worth it? Personally, I leave my 80-200 at home when I go abroad.</p>

    <p>Mike</p>

  14. <p>For some reason I always remember Wednesday Pic on Thursday...anyhow, my contribution to this week was taken at SF's Legion of Honor in the 30 minutes that the sun actually shone through the fog.<br /> <br />Setup: Nikon D700, Nikkor 24-85mm @ f/4.5 and 1/640s @ ISO 200<br>

    <br /> <a title="jenny-100606-123947-Edit by cZulander, on Flickr" href=" Jenny at the Legion of Honor src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1308/4684084245_5562ecc758_b.jpg" alt="jenny-100606-123947-Edit" width="532" height="800" /></a></p>

  15. <p>I bought the Kirk collar for my 300 f/4 (old mount) and have never looked back. The fact that it is also Acra Swiss compatible was the cherry on top. Combined with a 1.4 or 1.7 TC the focal length necessitates a steady platform (what's up with no VR Nikon?!?!) so the investment you make in the Kirk will be well rewarded.</p>
  16. <p>So I think I've found out what this plate is. It is a Gitzo QR plate for "For 2285MB & GS3760/5760C Adapters, Current Ballheads Except Off-Center Ballheads, G2275M Low-Profile Head, and G2180 Fluid Head"</p>

    <p>It looks exactly like the one in this photo:<br /><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/353695-REG/Gitzo_G2285MB_G2285MB_Quick_Release_Adapter.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/353695-REG/Gitzo_G2285MB_G2285MB_Quick_Release_Adapter.html</a><br>

    And here is the rubber version of it:<br /><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/569262-REG/Gitzo_GS5370C_GS5370C_Quick_Release_Plate.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/569262-REG/Gitzo_GS5370C_GS5370C_Quick_Release_Plate.html</a></p>

    <p>Thanks all who contributed to this topic!</p>

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