midgley

<p>Went for lunch on a steam train near Corfe Castle in Dorset. <br />Only recently got round to editing (very very minimally) and posting.</p>

<p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/736/32410162141_96ee1a931a_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="534" /></p>

<p><img src="http://photo.defoam.net/moulou/IMG_8729a-750-sig.JPG" alt="" width="750" height="969" /></p>

<p>Couple of punk girls modelling.</p>

<p><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7563/27614324462_00e5d3daaa_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="483" /></p>

<p>Our garden pond. Reds, blues, and a green.</p>

<p>Asking them to play fair, and helping them to do so as above is sensible and proportionate, no?</p>

<p><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/269/18112933093_575717153c_c_d.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>In the garden.<br>

There's a young woodpecker nearby but that's harder to catch.</p>

<p>EOS 7D mark 2 has exposure compensation with auto ISO. It is tucked away somewhere in the menus. I've not used it yet.</p>

<p>I've seen that. The current version of dcraw is reported to handle them. I can wait, as time has gone on I seem to need raw less often.</p>

<p>Nice enough website. Do change the page title prefix though - including your name would be better than just "photography", indeed Wedding Photography by ... and Portraits by .... is better. THe page title is used by search engines to match what you say you have put up to what people say they want, so give it as much help as you can.</p>

<p>I think it is Flash.<br>

I do not run Flash on the computer I look at this with, so I got a plain white page with nothing else.<br>

It is possible to provide a few lines of text if Flash is not running, and it is better to provide the website as HTML5, although people looking at it at work may not be able to use their corporate web browser, if that is MS IE. That may not be intirely bad.</p>

<p>I think this is very helpful, thanks.</p>

<p>Very tight. I suspect making one wall mirror, and then shooting entirely as reflection in that to get additional distance would not work all that well, but optically ...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I got some mud stuck in one of those buttons with somewhat similar results. <br>

Some quick work with spit and a tissue resolved it, before the next people to photograph appeared.<br>

It was an entertaining day, but muddy.</p>

 

<p><strong>"Either the flash stays on long enough for the shutter to transit the frame or it doesn't - no two ways about it.</strong> And if it does have a long enough duration,"</p>

<p>I know nothing of the particular kit involved, but I'd expect it to be similar to Canon's approach to high speed sync. The problem is that the slit between the first curtain and the second curtain is narrow, and transits the sensor so that the usual flash would only illuminate a small stripe. Their solution is to make many, small, flashes, so as to illuminate each stripe as the slit in the shutter passes over it. This means that if, say, the number of slices was 4, the maximum power of each flash would be 1/4 of the full power of the flash-unit, the total power of the unit being available to share between as many as required. The duration of each flash will be less than the duration of a single full-power flash, because of physics.</p>

<p>To have a single big flash that stayed on for the whole traversal of the sensor by the second curtain would require a flash with at least 4 times the power of the unit required otherwise, and probably many times the power. It seems unlikely and really is just continuous lighting switched on at the right moment.</p>

<p>Since the task for the controller is to give out sub-maximal flashes, there seems no reason why it should not be able to do so at lower power than full/n where n is the number of flashes required to paint the sensor stripe by stripe. However it cannot provide a brighter effect (guide number?) than full/n <br>

I don't have a monolight (yet) so I may be missing something - do say.</p>

 

<p>How about a command line interface, perhaps using a terminal session on a smartphone, and a general purpose microprocessor no more expensive or complicated than a Raspberry Pi built into the device? There is I think a point at which the advantages of having dedicated buttons for key purposes becomes less than the advantage of giving - and saving and reusing - specific commands in something slightly similar to English.<br>

(For me modern televisions and digital video recorders are beyond that point)</p>

 

<p>Einsteins are hard to get in England. What would the panel do?</p>

<p>How did it go?</p>

<p>If you are being offered some pay for the photographs, then you might consider taking it, or hold out or advertise for a later better offer. </p>

<p>If it is a dispute about value, then the market may be settling it.</p>

<p>If you feel you had an agreement to do work for one price, and having done it you are now offered a lower price, then I tend to agree that delivering that work and being cheated is less good for you and for society than forgoing any income from it - and if you can sell it to someone else at any time in the future for anything at all then your loss is ameliorated.</p>

<p>The situation is unclear.</p>

<p>I think that if you had an agreement that you would take pictures then some sort of contract to produce them on payment of a consideration might be inferred, in which case destroying them - or demanding an increased price - might look bad. But in the absence of a real contract with an agreed price, if you are short of storage there is no reason to retain them forever.</p>

<p>dcraw which is open source and free can handle those raw files. A derivative of it, ufraw, may be more congenial. The Gnu Image Manipulation Program (gimp) will take files from ufraw and provides editing functions in abundance. Altertnatively do a conversion to something your proprietary editing software accepts such as TIFF or indeed JPEG and go on with the stuff you are used to.</p>

<p>and </p>

<p>It is nice that you worry about things.<br>

Somewhere between saying hide the ones she doesn't like (and wondering whether you would have done as well to leave them in reserve yourself) and making a new version of the ones that she and you think will be best once edited is probably the right answer.<br>

But also, if you have advance notice that something needs to be discussed, you need to put it aside, and allocate time to deal with it, early next year, not now.</p>

 

<p>"bridal magazines ... assume that articles on what to look for in a wedding photographer are scarce in these publications."<br>

Perhaps there should be such an article here, or in a wiki or presented to several such publications?<br>

And scare did seem a good typo.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Here's one from last year, at the finish, which is uphill away from the house into the morning sun.</p>

<p><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/9705589864_6603b281b0_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="426" /><br>

7D with a 70-200/2.8 IS2 with the Canon 1.4 extender and Sigma 30mm or Canon 50/1.4 IIRC.</p>

 

<p><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/15076493078_299d535b48_z_d.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Parkrun is an international phenomenon in which photography seems to be part of the mix. The run in the grounds of the National Trust property at Montacute - a stunning Elizabethan manor - had reached its first anniversary. I photographed the first instance, and went over to photograph the anniversary run. The rooms off the Long Gallery in the house contain exhibitions from the National Portrait Gallery, after coffee we went for another look there.</p>

<p>I've been given a film EOS body that also offers the eye control. I may never put film through it, but it does seem a clever system. Also found on Apache helicopters, I think.</p>

<p>I have two 7D bodies. One was bought a year or two before the other, in LA as it happens, not very long after it was released.<br>

Fitting a Kenco C-AF 2x converter to them produces different behaviour: the older one will not autofocus with a 70-200/2.8 IS2 lens nor with a 100mm/2.8 IS except that when manually overriding focus there is an occasional flicker of movement, but off focus rather than onto focus. <br>

The camera will then not switch off with the on/off switch, and requires the batter removing to reboot it.<br>

In all other respects the body behaves properly - it has been round the world a few times but is in visibly good condition.</p>

<p>The younger one accepts the converter, autofocuses and switches on and off.</p>

<p>Initially I thought "Aha, firmware!" and upgraded the old one from 2.0 to 2.0.5 (and the younger one, while I was at it, from 2.0.3 with which it had been supplied (the older one was supplied with version 1.n ( n= .25 I think) firmware).<br>

No change.<br>

There is a battery handle - not Canon - on the older one, which I have not yet tried excluding or swapping over because it seems rather remote from the operations giving trouble. <br>

The Canon 1.4 converter version 2 works on both, as does everything else in the cupboard. <br>

I found nothing on the Web via Google, yet, relating to such behaviour.<br>

Where would the panel look for an answer or solution? (I'd rather have the heavier better powered body on the back of the big lens but obviously I can use the lighter one, but I like things to work interchangeably)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>To render unreadable you could copy an equivalent size block of random data or nulls (00) onto the car.<br>

In Linux you'd use dd <br>

Then format it in the camera to make it ready for use again.</p>

<p>What pattern does an unused CF card from the manufacturer have before it has been used at all? On some hard drives this used to be DEADBEEFDEADBEEF . You might choose to copy the relevant pattern to the card and drop it in a pocket with some bits of wrapping, if your requirement for erasure is more extreme than most. <br>

Formatting 3 times is I think only going to be convincingly better for magnetic rotating storage media.</p>