piotr_smolanski

<p>This was done in a church? Good grief...</p>

<p>Possibly it is a quirk of Rz67? I have an Rz67 II and never had such a problem.</p>

<p>Mamiya Rz Pro II with 110mm f2.8<br>

100-200mm f5.2 Zoom<br>

A few rolls of Astia or Provia<br>

Kenko 2100 light meter<br>

Some filters.</p>

<p>I've bought <a href="http://www.shutterbug.com/equipmentreviews/accessories/1008kenkos/">Kenko 2100</a> (a rebranding of Minolta Flash Meter VI) for my Rz Pro II and it works like a charm. Provides incident, spot and flash metering and is very easy to use. Also a bit more compact than Sekonic 758.</p>

<p>What do you mean? The bellows lens hood just detaches from the lens. Aren't you confusing the bellows hood with the camera bellows?</p>

<p>Just to share some experiences:</p>

<ul>

<li>200mm is a lot even on 6x7. I think I won't need the 250mm as it would go into the area of communicating with the model via roars or calling her on the mobile.</li>

<li>People tend to stare when you deploy this rig.</li>

<li>The beast is heavy, granted, but quite well balanced. It is not that hard to hand-hold it if you use the strap properly. I sling it across my neck and arm and then tuck the right side under the right arm and pull it until there's a lot of tension. This stabilizes the camera against my chest. Seems to be doing the trick.</li>

<li>Rz 67 II with 100-200mm needs a big bag. The bag is heavy. Get a comfortable one with a wide and well-padded shoulder pad.</li>

<li>Changing lenses takes a long time if you also need to attach/detach the bracket. Forget about changing it in a hurry.</li>

</ul>

<p>The basis for this wallpaper is a shot taken with 100-200mm. Fuji Provia, scanned with Epson 4490 (click the image to enlarge). Of course the scan comes nowhere near the glory of the original slide:<br>

<p> </p>

<p>Well, all in all I have decided to buy both, the 100-200 first. It just arrived today, purchased from KEH. I must say that their assessing standards seem to be very conservative. It was listed as bargain, but I can't find any fault with the lens. Maybe just because it is missing the caps? Anyway - thanks for the input. I'm off to waste some film with this beast.</p>

<p>Whoa, this is massive! Thanks!</p>

<p>I'm considering one of those two lenses, probably from KEH (import to GB). I already know about the bracket for the zoom. My questions are:</p>

 

<ol>

<li>How do these lenses differ in terms of weight/size/operability?</li>

<li>Does one need a bracket for 250mm as well as for 100-200mm?</li>

<li>How alike/unlike are they when it comes to optical performance?</li>

<li>Does anyone have any sample shots from them (zoom at the long end), preferably wide open?</li>

<li>Can anyone offer links to reviews/sample shots, as my google-fu has really failed me this time?</li>

</ol>

<p>Thanks in advance for any help.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Also, how many prints and negs are stuffed into shoeboxes and shoved into closets, never to be seen again until the person dies and the non-valuables are thrown out?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>And then someone finds such a box, his jaw drops and hundred year old photos are showed to the world. Please have a look here:<br>

<a href="http://www.gurdowa.pl/">http://www.gurdowa.pl/</a></p>

<p>Now, just think - how likely would this be to happen with a HDD found in a box?</p>

 

<p>Thank you for this detailed warning, Desmond. I shall endeavour not to make a complete hash of things while using this cable :)</p>

<p>Sweet. I didn't know that plugging the cable into the lens changed the release button into MLU. Thank you Dave and Desmond. You have saved me a substantial amount of money.</p>

<p>@Dave:<br>

2. So if you plug one cable into the lens, the standard release button will start working as MLU?</p>

 

<blockquote>the RZ also requires batteries to fire the shutter?</blockquote>

<p>Yes and no. If your battery dies or you remove it you can still fire the shatter in "emergency" mode. It will then fire at approx. 1/400 speed only.</p>

 

<p>As to: "If perhaps you mean what is a SAFE sync voltage for the RZ67, I will still say that you are safe using any flash." - sorry, Steve, but this does not seem to be correct. To Quote the Rz67 II instruction manal (page 39, Troubleshooting):</p>

<p>"· Electronic Flash Precautions<br /> Electronic Flash units that have a high sync trigger voltage may<br /> seriously damage the electronic circuitry of your RZ PRO II. Flash<br /> units with a maximum of 12 volts sync output trigger voltage are<br /> safe for use. Please contact your flash manufacturer, or have your<br /> local flash repair station test the sync line trigger voltage before<br /> using with your RZ PRO II. Older studio flash power packs are<br /> particularly suspect of using high voltage sync trigger voltages,<br /> sometimes feeding as much as 400 volts into your RZ PRO II<br /> sync terminal! To prevent this problem, your may consider using a<br /> "filter" or regulating circuit between your power pack and sync<br /> cord. Contact your local flash dealer or manufacturer for more<br /> information about these devices."</p>

<p>I would expect the same to be true for Rz67 as the differences are mostly mechanical. If you don't know your flash trigger voltage use a safe coupler or just a radio trigger.</p>

 

<p>I have some questions about the Mamiya double cable release for Rb/Rz/Rz II. Maybe someone will be able to help me:</p>

 

<ol>

<li>Is the cable proprietary? Or can the branded Mamiya cable be replaced by any other brand (like the bellows double release cables)?</li>

<li>Is it just two standard cables with one trigger? Can I use two standard cables plugging them in separately?</li>

<li>Can it be used as single release if you unplug the mirror lockup cable and just leave the shutter release one plugged in?</li>

<li>How does the double release compare to electromagnetic release in terms of vibration? </li>

</ol>

<p>Thanks in advance for all the help.</p>