squeri

<p>Hah! Bjorn, your lens review was one of the sites I was refering to. Yes, I think I had a polarizer on it. I didn't think of that as a possible cause. Would you consider the fence shot an acceptable amount of flare for this particular lens?</p>

<p>"I jumped outside just now to take a quick test shot "<br>

Wow, thanks, Matt. So I guess you'd answer yes to the above Q. I really was hoping for a less, but for $250 I gueass I can deal.</p>

<p>Thanks fellas.</p>

<p>I recently purchased a nikon 20mm 3.5 AIS for my D200. I liked teh lower price of teh 3.5 compared to the 2.8 and I've read it's actually a better lens in some respects, the main one being resistance to flare. I read you can shoot into the sun with little or no flare.</p>

<p>Could those who know tell me if they think the flare visible in these examples is normal. It's far more than I was expecting and I'm a bit dissapointed.<br>

<br /><a href="http://jsqueri.smugmug.com/All-photos/temp/20mm-3/790044606_JPmKf-M.jpg">http://jsqueri.smugmug.com/All-photos/temp/20mm-3/790044606_JPmKf-M.jpg</a><br>

<br /><a href="http://jsqueri.smugmug.com/All-photos/temp/20mm-3/790044596_LFbrz-M.jpg">http://jsqueri.smugmug.com/All-photos/temp/20mm-3/790044596_LFbrz-M.jpg</a></p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Hi Jeannean, I just started using a sigma 105 macro I picked up from KEH for about $365. It's much harder to use than I thought. Very shallow depth of field which makes for very hard focusing. I also didn't have enough light so I started using my old sunpak. I've only had the oportunity to try it a few times, but things are progressing. Below is one of my better shots with it at 1/30, f11 using a d40 and the flash on camera. <br />I also got a lot of info from this site: <a href="http://www.dgrin.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23">http://www.dgrin.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23</a> . The top link titled brian valentine has some good info.<br>

edit: hmm, can't insert pics like I'm used to. Here's a link to it.<br>

<a href="http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss69/jsqueri/nature/?action=view&current=DSC_5849crop.jpg">http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss69/jsqueri/nature/?action=view&current=DSC_5849crop.jpg</a></p>

<p>Very tempting. It does look like an 8mm, though. Bower and samyang models are labeled as such. Here's a good review.<br>

<a href="http://www.lenstip.com/index.html?test=obiektywu&test_ob=160">http://www.lenstip.com/index.html?test=obiektywu&test_ob=160</a></p>

<p>I always duplicate my image, close the original with no saving, then do pp on the dup. If I want several versions I make several duplicates, never editing or resaving the original image.<br>

-John</p>

<p>I don't think the HDR process needs to be used to such an extreme.<br>

<br />I tried a PS tutorial after reading this post and found it improved my image. The tut I used was a simplified version that didn't require bracketing. I basically created several duped layers then adjusted levels for specific "zones" in each layer. Blending modes and opacity allowed my to get teh best exposure for each area. It looked only slightly altered to my untrained eye. Certainly not the surreal look these examples have.<br>

<br />Maybe if I was a better photographer the HDR wouldn't be an improvement, but right now I think it is- especially for a quick first try. I think everything but the blown out clowds in the HDR looks better in my example.<br>

<br />HDR version: <a href="http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss69/jsqueri/architecture/?action=view&current=lookingupHDRcopy.jpg">http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss69/jsqueri/architecture/?action=view&current=lookingupHDRcopy.jpg</a><br>

<br />Original with normal PP: <a href="http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss69/jsqueri/architecture/?action=view&current=DSC_2400.jpg">http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss69/jsqueri/architecture/?action=view&current=DSC_2400.jpg</a></p>

<p>From one noob to another.<br>

Take a test shot first in P mode and check the image in the LCD, then...<br>

Point the camera at the darker area and hold the exposure lock (EL) button and recompose your shot or...<br>

Use the exposure compensation button (hold it down and spin the dial) to raise the exposure.<br>

Either way you'll probably end up over exposing the sky. When working in photoshop I find it easier to improve under exposed areas than over exposed, but you don't always have a choice.</p>

<p>I've shot some portraits and I'd like some non-family/friend input. All the work on the critique page looks REALLY good and I know mine doesn't. Is it OK to post critiques here in the beginner forums?</p>

<b>Moderator's note:</b> When you post a new thread to this forum, it states at the top of the page:<P>

<i>This forum is for beginners to ask basic questions about technique or theory.<P>

This forum is <b>not</b> the place to ask for image critiques or to discuss ratings.</i>